This is a climbing spot included in Sierra de Gredos, Macizo Central. With 40 granite peaks, it has aproximately 250 rock-climbing routes graded between III and 7b+ (max. 300 m). Some people say that there is no other area in Europe with so many peaks in less surface. The range offers one of the finest rock-climbing in Spain, it can be a perfect training area for bigger objetives. There is no many people outside weekends and holidays.

Note: 2.341m is the elevation of La Mira, the highest mountain in Los Galayos. In some sources La Mira and its neighbours are not included in Los Galayos, then the highest peak would be Gran Galayo (2.216 m / 7,270 ft). The coordinates up are those of La Mira.

Getting There

Los Galayos base could be Plataforma del Nogal del Barranco, wich is parking with tables and a drinking fountain.

PRIVATE VEHICLE

From Madrid (175 Km)
Take A-5 to Talavera de la Reina and then the C-502 to Avila, after Ramacastañas turn right on C-501 to Arenas de San Pedro (the biggest town in the region), finally drive 11 Km to Plataforma del Nogal del Barranco after the nice village of Guisando.

From Avila
C-502 passing Puerto de Menga, Puerto del Pico, Cuevas del Valle and Mobeltrán you'll arrive to Ramacastañas. Then as I said.

Get informed of winter road conditions in pages 601 and 611 of "Teletexto" TVE.

BUS
Madrid-Arenas de San Pedro or Avila-Arenas de San Pedro, then take a taxi, hitch-hike (better on weekends) or walk (2 h 30 min).

Red Tape

No one yet.

When To Climb

The weather is almost perfect, but be careful because the area is over 2.000 m. When it rains the rock slips a lot due to the green lichens. The best season for rock-climbing is from May to October.

INM weather forecast for Sierra de Gredos.

Camping

Guisando campings

Refugio Antonio Victory (1.950 m)
In front of Torreón de los Galayos. Guarded, 16 places, water, bar and radio. Take your sleeping bag with you. Opens all the year but in Winter only on weekends.

There is no covered bivouacs and a tent can be difficultly pitched, there is no comfortable places.

El refugio Victory incomunicado.

Foremost peaks

Aguja Negra
Aguja Paco Pérez
Cabeza del Covacho
El Capuchino
El Cervunal
El Monaguillo
El Mono
El Pollo
El Pollo Negro
El Risquín
El Tridente
Espaldar de los Galayos
Falso Galayo
Gran Galayo
La Mira
La Vela
Las Berroqueras (Norte, Central y Sur)
Peña del Aguila
Peña del Chocarrón
Peña Gallina
Pequeño Galayo
Punta Acuña
Punta Arenas
Punta Conchita
Punta de los Lirios
Punta del Jardín de la Pilar
Punta del Pilar
Punta Desconocida
Punta Díaz-Rubio
Punta Don Servando
Punta Fina
Punta Innominada
Punta Maliciosa
Punta Margarita
Punta María Luisa
Punta Mónica
Punta Olvidada
Punta Peñalara
Punta Tonino Re
Puntas Gemelas
Risco Angel
Risco de las Palomas
Risco del Jardín del Puente
Risco del Puente
Risco Enebro
Risco Jugaero
Risco Moreno
Risco de la Trocha Palomo
Torre Amezúa
Torre de la Seta
Torre de Pachi
Torre del Conejo
Torre del Conglo (o Congio)
Torre Gregoria
Torre Marian
Torre Rosblanc
Torreón de los Galayos

Foremost approaches to the peaks

Canal (gully) de la Aguja Negra
Canal de las Berroqueras
Canal del Capuchino
Canal del Gran Galayo or Canal de Trocha Palomo
Canal del Torreón
Canalón Oeste del Risco del Puente
Espaldar de los Galayos
Jardín de la Punta del Pilar
Jardín del Risco del Puente

Torreón de los Galayos

This impressive granite peak (about 2.100 m) is the most atractive Galayos' pinnacle. It is vertical on all sides and rises 50 m over zócalo (rock base) plus 100 m from zócalo to La Apretura. Its outline form a part of the Spanish Mountaineering Federation official emblem.

Simplifying Torreón is formed by 2 sides:

-N and W faces
-S and E faces

The historical name of the peak was El Pilón or La Torre. They named Torreón after the S face first ascent.

First Climb

N summit (Cara-Chimenea Oeste, Normal): Teógenes Díaz and Ricardo Rubio on May 16th 1933. Primera ascensión al Torreón: 75 años después.
S summit (Cara SE, Sur Directa): Florencio Fuertes, José González Folliot and Antonio Rojas on July 19th 1947.

First winter ascent: Antonio Moreno and Ramón Somoza on January 1st 1948.

Curiosities

Theoretic weight : 750 million Kg / 1,650 million Pounds.

Esteban Vicente solo-climbed all the existing routes (9) in 12 hours.

In some storm days it's posible to hear the " bees buzzing" on the summit.

The summit is 90 cm / 36 in wide.

External Links

Grupo Gredos de montaña
Interesting web to practice activities in Sierra de Gredos, rock climbing, routes and diferents expeditions
Sierra de Gredos
Restaurants, Hotels, campings....and routes, rock climbing, activities and zones in the sierra de Gredos
Rock Climbing in Galayos
To rock climbers
Ayuntamiento de Arenas
Mountaneering section in this Arenas de San Pedro's council web. Includes a Galayos' map and information a little weak. In Spanish.
Guía Tietar
This web wants to be the reference in all about Los Galayos. It's very complete: good images and a lot of information. In Spanish.
Escuelas de Escalada
This web submitted by Desnivel, a Spanish publishing company of mountain books, includes Galayos' rock climbing information. In English.
Junta de Castilla y León
Hotels, Campings and interesting telephones of Gredos
Desnivel Magazine #203 Climbing Info
Complete climbing info of Peña del Aguila & Berroqueras. Very interesting. Only in Spanish.
Mountain and Climbing Guiding/Instruction
Rock and Ice climbing school. Mountain Guiding. English speaked.

Images



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