Introduction
It’s an hours drive from my house to the entrance Rocky Mountain National Park. More than 2,000,000 other people can make the same claim, making RMNP one of the most accessible National Parks in the system. To many, this is a reason to avoid the place. In the summer it’s true that you won’t find a parking space anywhere after 9:00 AM, backcountry sites are booked long ago, the major trails are crowded with tourists, and climbing the standard route on Longs Peak is more of a social event than a wilderness experience.
To hiker and climber, however, RMNP has whatever you want: gentle peak bagging, superb rock climbing, exquisite mixed alpine routes, ski mountaineering, long traverses that will kick your butt, and anything in between. There are even a few small glaciers that occasionally sprout crevasses! A spectacular wilderness of rugged beauty is your backdrop. You can spend days or weeks wandering the backcountry, or just a day on an exciting climb and be back in town in time for beers and dinner.
I consider myself lucky to live near Rocky Mountain National Park.
GeologySP Member Mountain Jim will be collaborating on a Geology section.
Coming soon!History
"We stood on the mountain looking down at the headwaters of Little Thompson Creek, where the Park spread out before us. No words could describe our surprise, wonder and joy at beholding such an unexpected sight"
- Milton Estes on the discovery of Estes Park, October, 1859
Not surprisingly, the history of RMNP mirrors the history of the American West: native population living on the land, the coming of the white man as explorer, hunter, rancher, farmer, miner, businessman, and ultimately, recreationer. Throughout it all, especially in the last century and continuing in full force today, is the constant tension between development and preservation, between parks as playgrounds and parks as
preserves.
Most of this information was gleaned from the very readable
book, Rocky Mountain National Park - A
History by Curt Buchholtz, available at
that link from the Rocky Mountain Nature Association. Further information was taken from the excellent and highly recommended High Country Names by
Louisa Arps and Elinor Kingery, recounts how most features in Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness were named. It appears to be out of print, but copies are available at Amazon and ABE.
Finally I have a copy of a wonderful booklet Mountaineering in the Rocky
Mountain National Park, compiled by Roger W. Toll, a
charter member of the Colorado Mountain Club and superintendent of RMNP (mentioned below). The book was published in paperback in 1921 by the Government Printing Office in Washington. I obtained my copy on Ebay,
and leave it as exercise for those interested to search the web. Toll writes, in timeless fashion, "Whatever it's kind and degree, mountaineering is the vacation experience which, above all others, fits man and woman to return to life's toils and problems with perspective,
endurance and steady nerve." At other times his writing is delightfully quaint. For example, when discussing how to waterproof boots he notes that "Several specially prepared oils are on the market, but bacon fat, lard or axle grease may be used." Ah, men were men back then!
| 10,000
B.C. |
Native tribes were using Trail Ridge to
travel between
hunting grounds on the plains to the east and Middle Park to the west,
as indicated by Clovis and Folsom points discovered in the
Park
What beauty or terror did the mountains hold for these people? |
| 5,000 B.C. |
Evidence exists of semi-permanent hunting
camps established in Front Range mountain valleys. |
| 3.500 B.C. |
Low stone wall "game drive systems" are
constructed in
the mountains, one of which remains near Trail Ridge Road.
Hunters could force prey, such as sheep, elk, deer,
or goat,
along the walls
and into the range of men with spears. |
| 500 A.D. |
The bow and arrow is introduced to the region, and the
first traces of pottery appear. Little recorded history until the white
man arrives. |
| 1820 |
Major Stephen H. Long leads an
expedition that explores the
plains of the Front Range. He writes that "a high Peake was
plainly to be distinguished towering above all the others as far as the
sight extended". Until then this peak and its sister were
known as
the The Two Guides by Indians who used them as reference points. French
trappers called the peaks Les
Deux Orilles, The Two Ears. Now, of course, they are
called Longs and Meeker. |
| 1843 |
Fur trader Rufus B. Sage enters
and becomes the first person to write of a high mountain park
near Longs Peak, "What a charming retreat for some of the world-hating literati! He might
here hold daily converse with himself, Nature, and
his God, far removed from the annoyance of man." |
| 1859 |
A Colorado "59'er", Joel Estes, drawn to the
region looking for gold,
settles in the valley described by Sage. He and his family
stay for six years, ranching and hunting for a living. Estes
Park
would soon have a name. |
| 1864 |
Joel Estes is visited by newspaperman William Byers of
the Rocky Mountain News,
who makes an unsuccessful attempt to climb Longs Peak. He does summit
Mount Meeker, and publishes glowing reports of the region in his
newspaper. |
| 1865 |
Novelist Jules Verne uses Longs Peak as the site of a
astronomical observatory for his book From the Earth to the Moon.
|
| 1868 |
Byers returns to Longs Peak, and with John Wesley
Powell,
L.W. Keplinger, and others, makes the first well-documented
ascent. Powell predicts that this "hitherto been deemed impossible"
feat would be surpassed by greater achievements. The following year
he began his momentous journey down the Grand Canyon. |
| 1871 |
The age of geologic exploration of the American
West. Clarence King's Fortieth Parallel Survey enters Estes park. Among
them is Henry Adams, a descendant of presidents, who adds to
the glowing descriptions of the the region in print. The
Survey
climbs climbs many peaks and
produces the first detailed maps.
In August the Reverend Elkanah Lamb climbs Longs Peak via the Keyhole, then descends the unexplored east face! He loses his footing on Mills Glacier and amazingly manages to arrest his fall by grabbing a rock. Mills Glacier is now generally known as Lambs Slide. |
| 1873 |
James Gardner of the Hayden Survey continues the
government
exploration. They carry scientific instruments to the summit
of
Longs Peak. Anna Dickenson, the first woman the make the
ascent, is with them. She had climbed Mount Washington in New Hampshire
26 times, and the name Lady Washington is given to one of Longs'
satellite peaks. This expedition also includes photographer
William
Henry Jackson, whose superb images capture the beauty of the
Rocky
Mountains. |
| 1873 |
A British aristocrat, the Earl of Dunraven, leads a
hunting
group into Estes Park and stays. He writes, "The air is
scented with the sweet-smelling sap of pines, whose branches welcome
many feathered visitors from southern climes, ... The climate is
health-giving ... so delightful that none can appreciate it except
those who have had the good fortune to experience it themselves".
The Earl forms the Estes park Company, Ltd, and attempts to
buy
up the entire valley, using legally dubious schemes. By
1880 he owns or controls 15,000 acres. Whether he intended this as a
private hunting preserve or as a cattle ranch remains unclear, but his
plans are thwarted as more settlers arrive. |
| 1873 |
Isabella Bird arrives and is guided up Longs Peak by
Rocky
Mountain Jim Nugent, camping in what is now called Jim's Grove. In her
best-selling book A
Lady's Life in the Rocky Mountains she
writes that Jim "dragged me up, like a bale of good, by sheer force
of muscle". The following year Jim is killed in a gunfight with one of
Dunraven's ranchers. The details of the incident remain in dispute. |
| 1875 |
An influx of more homesteaders includes Abner
Sprague,
Alexander MacGregor, and Elkanah Lamb, whose names are familiar in the
Park today. Lamb and his son Carlyle begin the first Longs Peak guide
service, taking clients up for five dollars. They are all opposed to
Dunraven's scheme to control the valley. |
| 1876 |
Colorado enters the United States as the 38th state.
Dunraven hires artist Alfred Bierstadt to paint a large landscape of
Estes Park and Longs Peak. He pays Bierstadt $15,000 and the painting
is sent to Dunraven Castle in Wales. Today it is owned by the Denver
Public Library. |
| 1877 |
Using Bierstadt's advice for the location, Dunraven
opens the
Estes Park Hotel, his plans for a private hunting
reserve
having failed. The hotel is known locally as the English Hotel. |
| 1878 |
Tourists and recreational campers begin to arrive in
Estes Park. Among them are Carrie Strahorn who writes in her book Fifteen Thousand Miles by Stage
that Estes is "a veritable Eden ... the sun never shown more
brilliantly, the flowers never blossomed more beautifully, and the
waters never chanted more hypnotic music, all luring us to stay". She
is
not the last to feel that way. |
| 1879 |
The mining boom finds it's way to these mountains,
especially in the Rabbit Ear Range, now known as the Never Summer
Range. The village of Grand La
ke is formed to support the n
eeds of the
miners |
| 1880-1890 |
Mining reaches its peak during this decade with the
town of Lulu City booming for 3 years along the headwaters of the
Colorado River. The town includes a butcher shop, real estate agency, a
hotel, barber shop, general stores, and of course, a liquor
store
or two. However the ore is of poor quality, and the inevitable
bust soon follows. |
| 1885 |
Homesteader Enos Mills arrives. He, more than anyone
else, will influence the future of these mountains. He begins working
as a guide for Carlyle Lamb and makes the first of his 250 ascents of
Longs Peak. |
| 1886-1888 |
Writer Frederick Chapin comes to Estes Park
for seasons of
mountain climbing. Chapin was a member of the Appalachian Mountain
Club, and his book Mountaineering
in Colorado: the Peaks about Estes Park opens club
member's eyes to the Rockies. Mountaineering for sport had arrived. |
| 1890 |
Work begins on the Grand Ditch. This water diversion
project redirects Never Summer water from the West to the East side of
the Continental Divide, sending it into the Poudre River and out to the
Front Range plains for agriculture. The ditch remains in use today and
is clearly visible on the mountain slopes. |
| 1892 |
A conservationist movement starts to take hold in the
region, its proponents calling for more careful and long-reaching
management of public lands. Issues centered on use of forests
and
watersheds (sounds familiar!), as well as regulated hunting and
fishing. The presidency of
Theodore Roosevelt ten years later adds support to these ideals. |
| 1902 |
Enos Mills buys the Longs Peak Inn from Carlyle Lamb.
His
commitment to preserving the region is complete and he embarks on a
career of writing and public speaking to a national audience, with the
intent of building support for a national park. |
| 1905 |
The Estes Park Town Company is formed, and a village
begins to grow along the banks of Big Thompson and Fall
Rivers. |
| 1909 |
After two years of construction, the Stanley
Hotel opens its doors for business. Designed and built at a cost of
more than half a million dollars by F.O Stanley, inventor of the
Stanley Steamer, the hotel caters to wealthy visitors who would stay
for a month or more. This creates the need for easy road access from
the plains, and good roads are built up the canyons by Lyons and
Loveland, from where it takes five hours to reach Estes Park. |
| 1912 |
The Colorado Mountain Club is formed. Charter members
include Enos Mills, Roger
Toll, superintendent at Yellowstone, Rocky Mountain, and Mount
Rainier National Parks; and Carl Blaurock, first to climb all
of
Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks. Working to create a Rocky Mountain
National Park is one of the club's objectives. |
| 1913 |
Construction begins on Fall River Road, a
seven year project. It is one of the first roads to offer direct access
to the Colorado high country by automobile. It ends at Fall River Pass,
and travelers to Grand Lake, 20 miles distant, completed the journey on
horseback. |
| 1915 |
After years of effort and lobbying by Mills
and many others, Rocky Mountain National Park is dedicated after
President Woodrow Wilson signs the bill into law. Mills vision of 1,000
square mile park had shrunk to 358 square miles, but no doubt he had
reason to celebrate that day. |
| 1917 |
A young woman, so-called Miss Agnes Lowe,
proposes to go into the Rocky Mountain National Park
wilderness
"Naked, Unarmed and Alone", according to the Denver Post. For the
following week newspapers all over the country report sightings of the
"Eve of Estes roaming through sunshine 'a la Nature". In fact
Park Superintendent Claude Way had collaborated with the Post to
arrange the stunt, and Miss Lowe was actually hidden in the Fern Lodge.
Regardless, the publicity drew much attention to the new Park |
| 1920 |
With the opening of Fall River Road more than 240,000
visitors enter the park |
| 1921 |
Roger Toll becomes Park Superintendent.
He is a mountaineer and says "great views create great thoughts and
great thoughts create great men", and "mountaineering promotes health
and strength of the body, ... and many other qualities that make for a
sturdy manhood and womanhood". His tenure in the park, until
1929,
is marked by numerous issues including wildlife management, states
rights over road ownership, private property rights, and an
increase in the number of backcountry accidents. He was able to add the
Never Summer Mountains to the Park, and he worked to promote
the
benefits of outdoor recreation. Mount Toll in the Indian Peaks
Wilderness is named for him. |
| 1921 |
The Holzwarth Trout Lodge, later called the Never
Summer
Ranch begins catering to tourists along the banks of the Colorado River
north of Grand Lake. The cabins and property are now owned by the Park. |
| 1925 |
In a much publicized accident Agnes Vaille dies during
the
descent on Longs Peak while attempting to become the first woman to
climb the East Face in winter. Her parter, Walter Kiener, goes for
help, but it arrives too late, and one of the rescuers, Herbert
Sortland, is also lost in the storm. |
| 1929 |
More than 1,600 people sign the Longs Peak summit
register
this year. The Bear Lake Road is completed, and work begins
on Trail Ridge Road to replace
the narrow and hazardous Fall River Road.. It is completed in
1933
"providing sufficient room for even the most timid and unexperienced
motorists to pass abreast". There was some opposition to its
construction, a foreshadow of the tension between preservation and
development that continues today. Care is taken to minimize the road's
impact on the alpine scenery. |
| 1933 |
In the midst of the depression the Civilian
Conservation
Corps (CCC) constructs buildings, campground, trails, and performs
numerous other tasks in the Park for the next 10 years. |
| 1933 |
Plans begin for a tunnel under the park to transport
water
from Grand Lake on the western slope to the Big Thompson River on the
east. This is met with fierce opposition, but the need for water
carries the day and construction begins in 1940, and water flows
through the Alva B. Adams Tunnel in 1947. However, once again damage to
the wilderness is kept to a minimum. |
| 1948 |
The post-war boom years arrive and visitations to Rocky
Mountain National Park tops one million for the first time. |
| 1955 |
The Hidden Valley ski area is opened inside the Park.
Once
again there had been years of conflict between the use of the
park
as a preserve or a playground, with the fight going all the way to the
U.S. Congress. Neither side was satisfied with the compromise, skiers
wanting more trails and bigger buildings, preservations
wanting fewer trees removed. The ski area operated until 1991, not really competing with Colorado's big resorts, and
the Park Service removed the buildings in 2004. |
| 1957 |
Four seasonal RMNP rangers are awarded the NPS
Valor
Award for the epic 1956 rescue of Patrick Dwyer, who fell several
hundred feet from the north face of Hallett Peak. |
| 1960 |
Much to the chagrin of several Colorado climbers, two
Californians are given a permit to attempt an ascent of The Diamond on
Longs Peak. David Rearick and Bob Kamps complete the climb in 52 hours,
in what becomes a huge media event. Rangers have a 1,200 length of rope
on the summit in case of a rescue, but the experienced Yosemite big
wall climbers did not have any serious difficulties . They are given a
guest of honor ride through Estes Park. |
| 1964 |
The Wilderness Act becomes law, and once again Rocky
Mountain National Park enters into the debate over it's mandate as a
preserve or playground. More than 90 percent (265,000 acres) of the
Park is proposed as wilderness. Disputes over water rights, existing
property rights, and backcountry usage (which grows 900% from 1965-75)
continue. As of today (April 2006), designating 249, 339 acres
as
wilderness is making its way through Congress. |
| 1973 |
The cables are removed from the north face of Longs
Peak, due to over-crowding on the route. |
| 1978 |
Buses begin to shuttle people up the Bear Lake road,
the
Parks' most popular destination, due to accidents and over-crowding on
the road. The 1,000 acre Ouzel Fire in Wild Basin becomes a focal point
of the continuing debate about resource management. The fire is
initially left to smoulder in the backcoutry, but winds fanned it to
eventually threaten the town of Allenspark. |
| 1982 |
A dam at Lawn Lake fails and the resulting flood kills
three
people and causes $31 million dollars in property damage. Aged dams
are removed from Bluebird, Pear and Sandbeach lakes in Wild
basin
over the next few years. |
| 2000 |
A five-year fight, led by the Estes League of Women
Voters and
Larimer County Commissioners, to prevent commerical sightseeing fights
is successful as a bill banning this permanently passes Congress. The
natural sounds of the Park remain undisturbed for now. |
| 2003 |
The 70-year old Chasm Meadow shelter
cabin, at the base of Longs Peak East Face,
is
destroyed by a massive avalanche that was triggered by a 100-year
blizzard. |
| 2005 |
Ranger Jeff Christensen becomes the first RMNP Park
ranger to die while on duty, from a fall sustained while on patrol in
the Mummy Range. |
|
... more to come as time marches on ... |
Further on-line references:
Offical
RMNP Page - A Brief History
Official
RMNP Administrative History
Estes
On-line Brief History of Rocky Mountain National Park
Rocky
Mountain National Park History by Dr. Ferrel Atkins, Park Historian
Natural HistoryThe Park is a treasure-trove for naturalists. Based on the interest in natural history threads here on SP I know this includes a lot of climbers. The Park consists of three main eco-systems, the montane which extends from the lowest elevations up to about 9,000 feet. The sub-alpine zone goes from there to tree line at about 11,000 feet, where the alpine tundra begins. The Park's Natural and Cultural Resources website has excellent pages describing these zones.

I will just provide a partial list of things you might see, in no particular order:
| Critters | Birds | Flowers | Trees & Plants | Elk
Mule Deer
Bighorn Sheep
Coyote
Mountain Lion
Black Bear
Beaver
Moose
Pika
Marmot
Chickaree Squirrel
Abert's Squirrel
Ground Squirrel
Least Chipmunk
Snowshoe Hare
Tiger Salamander
Chorus Frog
Garter Snake
|
Mallard
Ring-necked Duck
Great Blue Heron
Blue Grouse
White-tailed Ptarmigan
Spotted Sandpiper
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
Red-naped Sapsucker
Hairy Woodpecker
Western Wood-Pewee
Steller's Jay
Gray Jay
Black-billed Magpie
Clark's Nutcracker
American Crow
Common Raven
Blue-headed Vireo
American Dipper
Mountain Bluebird
Hermit Thrush
American Robin
Red-breasted Nuthatch
Mountain Chickadee
Brown-capped Rosy-Finch
Yellow-rumped Warbler
Wilson's Warbler
White-crowned Sparrow
Dark-eyed Junco
Green-tailed Towhee
Red-winged Blackbird
Common Grackle
|
Colorado Columbine
Indian Paintbrush
Fireweed
Lupine
Elephant Head
Monk's Hood
Rocky Mountain Locoweed
Mariposa Lily
Gaillardia
Marsh Marigold
Tall Chiming Bells
Calypso Lady Slipper
Heartleaf Arnica
Alpine Forget-Me-Not
Parry Primrose
Moss Campion
Penstemon
|
Pondrosa Pine
Lodgepole Pine
Limber Pine
Bristlecone Pine
Douglas Fir
Blue Spruce
Englemann Spruce
Rocky Mountain Juniper
Rocky Mountain Maple
Quaking Aspen
Chokecherry
Wax Currant
Oregon Grape Holly
|
Satellite Photo
This satellite photo is from The Gateway
to Astronaut Photography website. The
major trailheads on SP are shown as red dots. Clicking
on them will take you that trailhead's page, from where you can surf to the peaks that are accessible from there.

To see a large (2400 x 1800, 2 MB) image of this photo without any labels or red dots use this link.
Also, be sure to check out Kane's Mega Maps page for another perspective.
PanoramasAll panoramas produced by Mountain Jim
Longs Peak from Copeland Mountain
Thatchtop Summit Panorama
Mount Olympus Summit View
View From Desolation Peaks
View From Crosier Mountain
Lumpy Ridge
Trailheads and PeaksThese tables list the RMNP peaks that are on SP, and the nearest trailhead. The trailheads are sorted alphabetically, and the peaks are sorted by elevation within each trailhead's section.
Some of the peaks are just outside the Park, and many of the peaks can be reached via trailheads other than the one specified here. That is often spelled out on the peak's page, but if not, then finding alternative approaches is left as an exercise (no pun intended) for the reader.
The grades and class of the least difficult route are also specified. This implies that you stay on route. On all peaks there are numerous harder routes. Check the peak's page, or guidebooks, or do your own exploring. And, of course, there are assorted traverses and ridge walks such as the Longs Peak Grand Slam, Mummy Mania, or even the Glacier Gorge Traverse that will increase the grade by a notch or two!
Grades describe the overall length of the climb and are defined loosely as:
I - A short day and up to 3,000 feet of elevation gain
II - A full day and up to 5,000 feet of elevation gain
III - A very long day, more than 5,000 feet of elevation gain
Classes describe the technical difficulty of the climb where:
1 - On trail
2 - Off trail
3 - Scrambling, use of hands for balance required
4 - Difficult scrambling, basic rock climbing techniques may be necessary
5 - Technical rock climbing
Bear Lake
| Hallet
Peak |
12713 ft / 3875 m |
II, Class 2 |
| Hayden Spire |
12480 ft / 3804 m |
III, Class 5.2 |
| Ptarmigan
Point |
12363 ft / 3768 m |
I, Class 2, Mod Snow |
| Knobtop
Mountain |
12331 ft / 3758 m |
II, Class 2 |
| Flattop
Mountain |
12324 ft / 3756 m |
I, Class 1 |
| Snowdrift
Peak |
12274 ft / 3741 m |
II, Class 2, Mod Snow |
| Notchtop
Mountain |
12129 ft / 3697 m |
I, Class 4 |
| Little
Matterhorn |
11586 ft / 3531 m |
I, Class 3/4 |
Chapin Pass
Colorado River
Cow Creek
Emmaline Lake
Fern Lake
Glacier Gorge
| Chiefs
Head Peak |
13579 ft / 4139 m |
II, Class 3 |
| Pagoda
Mountain |
13497 ft / 4114 m |
II, Class 3 |
| McHenrys
Peak |
13327 ft / 4062 m |
II, Class 3 |
| Powell
Peak |
13208 ft / 4026 m |
II, Class 2, Mod Snow |
| Taylor
Peak |
13153 ft / 4009 m |
II, Class 2, Easy Snow |
| Thatchtop |
12668 ft / 3861 m |
II, Class 2 |
| Arrowhead |
12642 ft / 3853 m |
II, Class 4 |
| The
Sharkstooth |
12630 ft / 3850 m |
II, Class 5.4 |
| The
Spearhead |
12575 ft / 3833 m |
II, Class 3 |
| Otis
Peak |
12486 ft / 3806 m |
II, Class 2, Easy Snow |
| Petit
Grepon |
12000 ft / 3658 m |
II, Class 5.8 |
| Half
Mountain |
11482 ft / 3500 m |
II, Class 2 |
Green Mountain
Lake Agnes
Lawn Lake
Longs Peak
Lumpy Ridge
Meeker Park
Milner Pass
Saint Vrain Mountain
Stormy Peaks
Trail Ridge Road
Twin Sisters
Wild Basin
Personal FavoritesListed here, in no particular order, are a few of my favorite hikes, scrambles and snow climbs. They are listed without any information, leaving it to you do further research using SP’s pages and/or the books noted in the Resource section below. But I do feel safe in suggesting that you’ll enjoy any of these outings.
Hikes With a couple of exceptions these are entirely on trail. All can be done as day hikes.
- Glacier Gorge - any trail branch: Black Lake, Sky Pond, or Andrews Glacier.
- Glacier Gorge - Shelf and Solitude Lakes below the Arrowhead. This involves some off trail scrambling.
- Bear Lake loop: Dream Lake, Lake Hiyaha, Alberta Falls. Could include branch to Emerald Lake, and/or Mills Lake, and/or Loch Vale.
- Bear Lake to Flattop Mountain. Continue on to summit Hallet Peak and return. Or keep going along the divide and descend Andrews Glacier for a nice loop (might require an ice axe for this).
- Fern Lake trailhead to Bear Lake, passing Fern, Odessa and Lake Helene. A detour to beautiful Spruce Lake is another option. Requires car shuttle or use RMNP bus. Most people might chose to go in the other direction, but I prefer hiking uphill.
- Cub Lake loop via The Pool. Possibly the easiest six mile hike in the Park.
- Loop around Lumpy Ridge
.
- Wild Basin: either Thunder or Bluebird Lakes
- Longs Peak: Chasm Lake and/or the Keyhole
- Mummy Range: Spectacle Lakes. Last bit to the lakes requires a bit of rough scrambling and some route finding.
- Mummy Range: Lawn Lake
- Mummy Range: Chapin Pass to Ypsilon Mountain.
- Colorado River trail to Lulu City
- East Inlet trail to Lake Verna
- Tonahutu or Green Mountain trail to Haynach Lakes
- Milner Pass to Forest Canyon parking area on Trail Ridge Road via Gorge Lakes and Forest Canyon. This is a rugged, off trail excursion. A long hard day. You’ll traverse an often seen but seldom visited region of the Park.
Peak Bagging These are mostly class 3, with exceptions noted.
- McHenry’s Peak via Stone Man Pass. The approach to the west of Black Lake (noted in Roach’s book) is a fun alternative to the standard ramp to the east.
- Longs Peak via the Keyhole. Crowded in summer but it's a classic.
- Longs Peak Kieners Route. Low 5th class rock, moderately steep snow. Another classic.
- Longs Peak Loft Route via Clark's Arrow and Keplinger Couloir. (Yes, I like Longs Peak)
- Mount Meeker via Loft
- Spearhead northwest slopes, the class 3 route to the summit.
- Pagoda from Black Lake
- Taylor Peak via Andrews Glacier
- Little Matterhorn - keeping this at class 3 involves good routfinding.
- Mount Ida to Chief Cheley to Cracktop
- Mount Richtofen from Lake Agnes, access from Poudre Canyon. A long drive, but a nice peak if you are up in that corner of the park.
Snow Climbs
Peak season for these moderate routes is typically sometime in May through sometime in July, but it varies.
- Tyndall Glacier
- Flattop Mountain North Face Couloirs
- Flattop Mountain Dragon's Tail Couloir
- Ptarmigan Glacier (can use this as descent from Flattop Couloirs)
- Mount Meeker Dreamweaver
- Longs Peak Trough
- Mount Powell North Face Couloirs
- Y Couloir of Ypsilon (I was turned back twice, so haven’t completed this one.)
Weather / ConditionsTypical for Colorado, conditions range from the calm, beautiful high pressure in summer, to howling white-out blizzards in the winter. Or, the other way around.
The biggest weather summer hazard is the afternoon thunderstorms which can build with alarming speed and danger. These are common from May through September are are often fully formed by noon. The Front Range is also known for ferocious wind, especially in winter.
First off, be sure to check out SP member sshankle's page on Colorado Front Range Weather
Colorado Mountain School guide Eli Helmuth has a great web page with current park climbing conditions: ClimbingLife.com
National Weather Service Longs Peak Ranger Station forecast, elevation 9420 feet. Of course specific mountain conditions vary wildly over small distances.
Forecast for Trail Ridge Road, 11,700' elevation
Estes Park forecast, the gateway town on the east side of RMNP.
Weather charts data from the Niwot Ridge Meteorological site, located at at 11,572 ft (3528 m) on Niwot Ridge, 30 miles south of RMNP. This gives you an indication of recent regional high altitude conditions.
Colorado Avalanche Information Center, more mountain forecasts and current conditions, highly useful avalanche information. Operates in winter months only. Be certain that I am not accompanying you if you are venturing into avalanche terrain. It could ruin your day.
Resources and LinksThe official RMNP site:
Official Rocky Mountain National Park Website
RMNP Climbing and Mountaineering Page
RMNP Backcountry Camping Page
Bivouac Sites List
The Colorado Mountain School site has details about their courses and guided climbs in the Park, and elsewhere.
Some Estes Park and Grand Lake web sites for accomodation, dining, etc.
www.estes-park.com
Estes Park Visitors Bureau
estes.on-line.com
Grand Lake Chamber of Commerce
Grand Lake Lodge
The Rocky Mountain Nature Association offers fields trips, seminars, and has a good selection of books.
Some good books (links take you to Amazon.com):
Lisa Foster, Rocky Mountain National Park: The Complete Hiking Guide. The best RMNP hiking guide. Buy it if you want great information about both standard and obscure Park hikes.
Rocky Mountain National Park: Classic Hikes and Climbs . It's out of print but this is my favorite peak bagging book . Roach is intentionally somewhat vague about the routes. Figuring them out is a great part of the fun. See if you can find a copy if you are into hitting peaks via basic mountaineering routes.
Bernard Gillet, Rocky Mountain National Park: Estes Park Valley: The Climber's Guide
Bernard Gillet, Rocky Mountain National Park: High Peaks: The Climber's Guide
Dougald Macdonald, Longs Peak: The Story Of Colorado's Favorite Fourteener
Paul Nesbit, Longs Peak: Its Story and a Climbing Guide
Richard Rossiter, Rock Climbing Rocky Mountain National Park: The Crag Areas
Richard Rossiter, Rock and Ice Climbing Rocky Mountain National Park: The High Peaks
A fun map, not to take on the trail but to hang on your wall and plan your next trip:
Trail Tracks Rocky Mountain National Park Hiking Map
Finally, the NPS has posted the entire text of Roger Toll's 1919 classic Mountaineering in the Rocky Mountain National Park. Thanks to brenta for bringing this to my attention. It is worth having a look. Click on the cover image below:

The table of contents has links to the old photos in the book:

Parting Shot Lamb's Slide, Kieners Route, Longs Peak | Images
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