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Whiteman Falls, WI 6 [ Sizes: Orig | Med | Small | Thumb ]
Whiteman Falls, WI 6
  • Whiteman Falls, IV, WI 6/ 95 meters.
  • The first pitch starts directly over the small flat staging area next to the wall that is Red Man Soars. It offers a variety of mushroom formations, the most interesting of which (photos) offered us a cool problem. The ladies seemed to take a split stance before pulling the roof. I did a full on heel hook which is very colorful by my standards. In any regard, it is quite obvious where the second pitch begins. We snared a slight hanging belay spot at the lower right corner of the top pillar. Move out left and climb the straight vertical 2nd pitch to the top.


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    TurboCool.

    Voted 10/10

    Now that looks a lot more fun than the history class I'm sitting in. Nice.
    Posted Jan 29, 2007 9:24 pm

    DigglerThat's what I call stemming!

    Voted 10/10

    Nice shot & very nice lead. You could practically sit on those ice bulges for a belay stance! How is it, though, that a 2-pitch route is a grade IV? Seems like that would make something like Widow's Tears or Bridalveil Falls Grade VI or VII- El Cap or Baffin Island!
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 12:09 am

    Dow WilliamsRe: That's what I call stemming!

    Hasn't voted

    Will let you take that up with Joe Josephson, author of “Waterfall Ice, Climbs in the Canadian Rockies”. Well known and respected guide book author regarding waterfall ice on both sides of the border. I just climb the stuff. Cheers.
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 2:15 am

    DigglerRe: That's what I call stemming!

    Voted 10/10

    Just talked with Joey. Good man & excellent ice climber. He said he mistyped after a late night completing that section of the guide- something about staying up too late & too many Beavertail Raspberry Ales ;)
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 6:39 pm

    Dow WilliamsRe: That's what I call stemming!

    Hasn't voted

    you sound like old bed fellows....I like Raspberry Ale as well, but try to keep a low profile on that one....I believe he does a better job than most, sober or not...cheers
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 11:54 pm

    DebSweet!

    Voted 10/10

    Intense shot!
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 12:42 am

    rpcWow!

    Voted 10/10

    WI6 eh??!!! Hard CORE & a great shot!
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 1:08 am

    Dow WilliamsRe: Wow!

    Hasn't voted

    Actually Radek, this pitch is considered WI 4+, the next pitch pitch is what makes this route a WI 6. Climbing in St. George as I type, Stacy and I are out every day. Just got back from a 5.10b fest at Black Rocks. Cheers.
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 2:17 am

    rpcRe: Wow!

    Voted 10/10

    "Climbing in St. George as I type, Stacy and I are out every day."

    you killin' me Dow ;)
    Sun & sandstone vs. cubicle & a lock-down for me.
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 5:24 pm

    Dow WilliamsRe: Wow!

    Hasn't voted

    Just got off a fun trad route in Snow Canyon with "gramps" on SP(really a young man from Salt Lake). This "Plans and Partners" thing actually works. Your computer guy slamming his head against his keyboard is quite the description of your pain.....escape Radek!
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 11:50 pm

    KatYikes!

    Voted 10/10

    Way to work out those inner thighs. :)
    Make a wish. :) Very nice!
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 2:15 am

    MoapaPknice split

    Voted 10/10

    Always appreciate flexibility.
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 4:37 am

    climbxclimbNice!

    Voted 10/10

    Great action picture!
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 4:38 am

    Peak FreakWow!!!

    Voted 10/10

    Great shot! Sweet stuff, Dow.

    EB
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 7:53 am

    julesblaiddNice

    Voted 10/10

    Great photo ! It could be very good climbing !
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 8:48 am

    tarolOuch

    Voted 10/10

    Great shot!
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 3:00 pm

    nimbisYeah:)

    Hasn't voted

    Thats awesome!!
    Posted Jan 30, 2007 3:34 pm

    pvalchevLynette

    Voted 10/10

    Lynette is styling as usual, she is an SP star. Just did the climb (I led first pitch, Hedd-wyn gunned the dead vertical pillar) on Saturday, what a wild piece of ice!
    Posted Mar 19, 2007 11:23 pm

    rhyangRe: Lynette

    Voted 10/10

    Lynette sounds like a serious ropegun - nice shot of her here. Good to hang out with ya dude :)
    Posted Mar 20, 2007 3:21 am

    Dow WilliamsRe: Lynette

    Hasn't voted

    Lynette is one of the best young female climbers in the biz and one of the best all around technique climbers I have ever been around. Unfortuantly she hurt her knee on this climb, Whitemans, and has not been on ice since. I look forward to getting her down to Zion for some sun healing. I know it is working on my back. That is why Beckey hangs out here no doubt. Peter, JC and Adam are coming down here in April, you ought to see about hitching a ride if you can get away. Cheers.
    Posted Mar 20, 2007 3:00 pm

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    on Jan 29, 2007 8:03 pm

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    ""You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.""   --Rene Daumal   

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