Overview

• The Aiguille de Rochefort is an important mountain of the Mont Blanc MASSIF. It is not the highest point of the famous Rochefort Ridge, but the most visited summit. From the Aiguille de Rochefort, you have a wonderful view around.

• The highest summit of the Rochefort crest is the Dôme de Rochefort with its 4015 m. But it is less visited than the Aiguille de Rochefort which is located about in the middle of the ridge between the Dent du Géant and the Col des Grandes Jorasses. About 50 % of the mountaineers who climb the Aiguille continue to the Dôme.

• Historical note:

The first climb of the Aiguille de Rochefort was on 14. August 1873 by the british climber J. Eccles with his french guides M.-C. and A. Payot. 3 years later, these 3 persons also climbed the Dôme de Rochefort for the first time. Not before July 1900, 4 mountaineers continued the Rochefort Ridge in direction of the Dent du Géant. This was the basis of the whole traverse which was undertaken for the first time by Karl Blodig and Max Horten from Bonn on the 2nd of August 1903.
There are higher summits with more different shapes in the Mont Blanc region, but there exists only one Rochefort Ridge. Although some people think that the Rochefort Ridge ends at the Aiguille de Rochefort, this is only partly true. Viewed precisely, the end of this ridge is not before the Calotte de Rochefort, 3974 m, the NE edge pillar of the crest.

• But you can leave this summit, unless you want to climb to the Bivacco Canzio at the Col des Grandes Jorasses and to traverse the Grandes Jorasses the next day.

• The Rochefort Ridge is dreamlike. It is as unique as the Bianco Ridge at the Piz Bernina . It is one of the most beautiful and worthwhile tours. Incomparable are the horizontal passages at the part of the mountain massif together with the very exposed passages at the firn crests which seem to be like knifes, seen from the Dent du Géant. Very attractive is the whole traverse of the Rochefort Ridge from the Col du Géant to the Col des Grandes Jorasses including the traverse of the Grandes Jorasses.

• The traverse from the Col des Hirondelles to the Col du Géant is difficult and not often climbed. For this route, very much experience is necessary. The other routes, especially through the NW face with its seracs, are climbed very scarcely.

• Peaks of the Rochefort Ridge: Aiguille de Rochefort (4001 m) - Dôme de Rochefort (4015 m) - Calotte de Rochefort (3974 m)

• Historical note:


There are routes for extreme climbers: for example the 700m high and 70° steep north-west face - a new route of Hermann Bratschko, Karl Schreiner, Emil and Karl Rupilius, climbed on the 25th of July 1932 in 12 hours. Or the 200m higher south face. On the 16th of July 1935, Francesco Ravelli and Maria de Benedetti from Torino opened a new direct route through the crumbling rock of this face. The Dôme de Rochefort N face has been climbed by Angelo Piconi and Luciano Pasi in 3 hard days from the 17th to the 19th of September 1971: the "Toni Gobbi memory route" in memory of the famous guide from Courmayeur (first winter climb of the Grandes Jorasses Hinrondelles ridge, Aiguille Noire S ridge, "Major route" through the Mont Blanc Brenva flank). He died with the age of 65 years 1970 in an avalanche at the Sassopiatto (Plattkofel) (Dolomites).

Route Overview

• AD, II and I, 200 hm, length: 800m, 3 1/2-5 h from Rif. Torino, 1 1/2 h from the beginning of the ridge, as descent 1 h less (Eberlein)


• AD, 2 h from the col to the 'dining room'. 1-2h from the 'dining room' to the Aig. de Rochefort, 816 hm (Rébuffat)


• III, AD, 4 h from the hut (Laroche/Lelong)


• III, AD (Damilano/Perroux)


• a. route from 1972: IV 3. 600 m (Damilano/Perroux)


• b. 'Bye Bye Baby: VI 6. 600 m. Seracs (Damilano/Perroux)


• c. Route from 1932: V 3. 600 m (Damilano/Perroux)

• PD, 6-7 h to Montenvers (Eberlein)

• Classic route: II, AD (Damilano/Perroux)


• Over the glacier du mont Mallet: III, AD, 300 m (Damilano/Perroux)

• IV, 6-8 h from the Col du Géant to the Col des Grands Jorasses; 6-8 h from the Col des Grands Jorasses to the Pointe Walker. 5-6 h from the Pointe Walker to the Col des Hirondelles, 850 hm, long mixed route of which the second part is very committing (Rébuffat)


• From Col des Grandes Jorasse to la Calotte de Rochefort: IV D, 5c (Damilano/Perroux)

Getting There

• a. You can come from the Ref. Cosmiques.


• b. You can come from the Rif. Torino.

• In order to reach the hut, you need about 1/2 h from the Aig. du Midi. If you leave the cable car station via the bridge, you go to the South summit. On the firn ridge, you go down in SE direction of an even ridgeplatform; then turn right to the S and SW direction below the S face of the Aig. du Midi. Pay attention to crevasses!


• You reach the Aig. du Midi with cable car from Chamonix.

• You reach the hut directly with the cable car from Entrèves/Courmayeur (Italy).


• You can reach the hut directly also with the Helbronner cable car from the Aiguille du Midi (to Aiguille du Midi with the cable car from Chamonix).


• Or you go on foot from the Aiguille du Midi over the glacier du Géant (3 h): From the foot of the S face of the Aig. du Midi you go on the almost even glacier to the Pointe Lachenal, turn left (E) to the glacier valley below the rugged E face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. You go along this E face of the Tacul and the Pointe Adolphe Rey in order to loose only little height. Now you turn to the ESE to the Col des Flambeaux. From here in a few minutes to the Ref. Torino. It is a very beautiful glacier walk with 200 hm ascent. Difficulty: F.

• a. From Martigny (Switzerland) via Vallorcine.


• b. From Geneva (airport) via Anncey (TGV till here) and St. Gervais.

• From/via Annecy, Geneva, Grenoble, Courmayeur, Aoste and Turin

• a. From Geneva (from the NW) on the A40 till St. Gervais and from here on the N205.


• b. From Martigny (from the NE, Switzerland) via Vallorcine and the Col des Montets on the road no. N506.

• a. From Chamonix through the Mont Blanc Tunnel from the NW.


• b. From Torino (from the SE) on the A5 via Villeneuve.

Red Tape

Camping

When to climb

Accomodation

according to Eberlein:

• 140 beds


• guarded from February till october


• phone: ++33(0)450544016


• internet: Rif. Cosmiques

according to Eberlein:

• with 70 beds


• serviced from October to June


• Tel. 00390/165/846484


• internet: Rif.Torino.old

according to Eberlein:

• with 170 beds


• serviced from June to September


• Tel. 00390/165/844034 (expensive)


• internet: Rif.Torino.new

Mountain Conditions and General Information

Maps

Experiences

External Links

• Aiguille de Rochefort at www.4000er.de
  Images, routes, coordinates and more information about the highest peaks of the Alps
  
• Mountain Guide Adventure - Chamonix Mont-Blanc Mountain Guide - France
  A Mountain Guide team will help you to realize your mountain and adventure dreams . A Mountain Guide team in Chamonix propose : mountaineering, alpine rock climbing, ice climbing, heliskiing, ski touring, off piste skiing and expeditions all over the world.
  
  

Images

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