OverviewMount Wilson is Colorado's 15th highest mountain, and the second highest mountain of the expansive San Juan Range. It rules as monarch over the San Miguel Range, a western sub-group of mountains that culminates in the western terminus of the mighty San Juans in southwest Colorado. Mount Wilson's popular neighbors are two more fourteeners. Wilson Peak resides to the north, with the pointed spire of Gladstone Peak towering between them, which at 13,913, is one of Colorado's challenging high thirteeners. To the west three quarters of a mile is El Diente Peak, an unofficial fourteener still regarded as such due to historical and sentinmental circumstances.
All of these mountains, as well as the rest of the San Miguel Range, are rotten. Their crumbling, dinner plate talus reputation is well known among Colorado's climbers, as well as serious weather and snow conditions that sets these mountains apart from the casual hiker's agenda. Climbing any of these mountains can be a serious undertaking even in reasonable weather, a daunting task in undesireable conditions, and winter outings can reach epic porportions even for seasoned mountaineers.
San Miguel Range Panorama by SP member Todd Caudle |
Mount Wilson is the San Miguel "king of the high court," and deservedly so. Viewed from any angle, Mount Wilson is an impressive collection of rugged spires towering over its neighbors, and it is guarded by large masses of persistent snow for most of the year. The standard north slopes route is mostly a Class 2 affair, but the final moves on the summit ridge are Class 3 and Class 4, depending on route choices, and the exposure is considerable. The southwest slopes route is a good one for a snow climb, but it too culminates on the final summit ridge. Others climb the mountain from El Diente (which is the recommended direction) along a rugged and crumbly ridge that can be time consuming, and harrowing in bad weather. Even though this ridge traverse is considered a classic, and is one of four among Colorado's spectacular fourteeners, it is not considered the most difficult despite the obstacles. Even so, this traverse from peak to peak should only be attempted in ideal weather.
Mount Wilson is usually climbed via the standard route by folks finishing up their quest to climb all of Colorado's fourteeners, as it is by far the most expedient means in which to claim this rugged summit. This route, or any route on the mountain, should be climbed by those who are experienced in San Juan terrain, or climbed with someone who has this invaluable experience. Although considered by some to be easier than neighboring Wilson Peak, Mount Wilson is a serious undertaking and should be approached with plenty of respect. Numerous rescues and recoveries have been performed on this mountain, as well as its three lofty neighbors. Approach the mountain with care and research, and Mount Wilson will be a grand reward in your total climbing experience.
Approach & Route Overview
Negotiating One of Two Crux Moves on Mount Wilson |
APPROACHES
SILVER PICK BASIN
The easiest approach for Mount Wilson's standard route is currently technically closed due to a recent private property controversy. It's junior neighbor, Wilson Peak, has been the center of the ongoing situation for years. However, the National Forest Service seems to support the notion that the new Silver Pick route will be open for the 2009 climbing season. Go HERE for complete details.
NAVAJO BASIN TH, KILPACKER TH
Currently, the Navajo Basin TH approach is the recommended alternative to Silver Pick Basin. A longer approach without the gain is the popular Kilpacker Basin. Round trip distance, depending on your route and other activities and goals can get upwards of twenty miles. Camping below Navajo Lake is available, which is quite a lovely place to spend a number of evenings. A camp at Navajo Lake serves the standard route. A camp in the Kilpacker drainage serves the Southwest Slopes route.
WOODS LAKE
A recent alternative climbers have been using, including some SP members, is Woods Lake. This route climbs steadily for 2,000 feet before dropping 400 feet into Navajo Basin for a camp at the lake. It's a 15 mile round trip minimum to Mount Wilson's summit.
BILK BASIN
This is a long approach for the standard route, but it's still feasible, and it's a beautiful one. Only strong and efficient day climbers should attempt this in a single day with plenty of daylight available. Depending on route choices, it's a 15 mile round trip with plenty of elevation loss through Navajo Basin along the way.
ROUTES
NORTH SLOPES (Standard) Class 4
5,100'/16 miles from Navajo Lake TH
4,100'/17 miles from Kilpacker TH
5,050'/8 miles from Silver Pick TH
Most of this route is Class 2, but as the ridge is approached, terrain steepens and lose rock is abundant. Difficulties increase to Class 3, and once on the ridge, the difficulty can be kept at Class 3 depending on route choices, but expect plenty of jaw-dropping exposure. Two Class 4 moves are on the ridge, one can be avoided. Be sure to study the images on this page and the attached route pages. A Class 3 variation that parallels the route below the ridge involves much more climbing in exposed terrain to reach the summit.
SOUTHWEST SLOPES Class 4, Moderate Snow
5,100' from Navajo Lake TH
4,100'/13.2 miles from Kilpacker TH
An ascent into the barren rock wilderness of Kilpacker Basin places the climber in position for a snow ascent of Mount Wilson via a trough to the notch in the north ridge just north of the summit, finishing on the climactic summit ridge.
EL DIENTE TO MOUNT WILSON TRAVERSE Class 4
Climb El Diente and follow the ridge line east to Mount Wilson. Ascent and descent routes will determine length, exposure and difficulty. Expect plenty of loose rock and exposed climbing. Be sure to read this excellent TRIP REPORT recently added to SP!
Getting ThereSilver Pick Basin Access: Drive 6.5 miles southeast from Placerville on Hwy 145. Turn right (south) on Silver Pick Road (FSR-622). Go left at mile 3.2 and take the middle fork at mile 4, then continue on FS-622 to the locked gate. Small parking area here.
Woods Lake Access: Take the Fall Creek exit due south from Highway 145 for 4 miles and take a right on a secondary road, reaching Woods Lake at approximately 8.7 miles. If you know specifics concerning conditions on getting to Woods Lake that you would like to contribute, it would be much appreciated! Add you comment in ADDITIONS AND CORRECTIONS and I'll see to it pronto! Thanks! -AJ
Kilpacker Basin Access: If approaching from the north, go south on Colorado 145 for 5.4 miles from the summit of Lizard Head Pass. If approaching from the south, go north on Colorado 145 for 9.5 miles from the Rico Post Office. Turn west onto the Dunton Road (Forest Service 535) and go straight at 4.2 miles, pass Morgan Camp (private) at 5.0 miles, turn north(right) onto Forest Service 207 at 5.1 miles and reach the trailhead after 5.3 miles.
Navajo Basin access: Start on FSR-535 which is 6 miles south of Lizard Head Pass on Hwy 145, identified by a large sign at the junction as Dunton. Follow the dirt road west 7 miles where a side road forks sharply to the right as FSR-535, which descends into the narrow gorge of West Dolores River. This short side road leads to the Navajo Lake Trailhead, where there is ample parking. When To Climb
Climbing the Summit Ridge on Mount Wilson |
The best chances for success on Mount Wilson is in the summer or fall, however during the August monsoon season, violent thunderstorms love the San Miguels, so get a very early start.
Spring time outings are akin to winter outings in warmer temperatures. Ice axes, crampons and winter gear are required to climb Mount Wilson or any mountain in the area safely. Avalanche danger in these mountains is always extreme and immediate.
Winter outings in the San Miguels have been executed, but the scope of such a potentially epic expedition requires full winter gear and extensive experience to climb any of the area peaks safely. Avalanche danger in these mountains is always extreme and immediate. Go informed and prepared!Camping
Navajo Lake Camping |
Silver Pick Basin: There have been several places to camp before the locked gate, with no fees involved. Until the private property issue is completely remedied, camping in the area is tenuous.
Navajo Lake: There are several camping areas below the lake, and a few in the trees above the lake. No fees involved. Camping on the lake shore is prohibited.
Kilpacker Basin: Good camping can be had below the lower Kilpacker Falls. There are no suitable camping spots in the upper Kilpacker Basin unless you like sleeping on talus. Camping on snow in the upper basin is feasible, but be mindful of avalanche conditions.
Mountain Conditions
Climbing Conditions on Mount Wilson |
Snow persists through the summer on Mt Wilson's north side. Ice axe and crampons are recommended for any snow climbing on this mountain.
Expect an overwhelming sea of loose rock, although Mount Wilson is a bit more stable than its neighbors. Exposure on the summit ridge makes most people at least pause.
Mount Wilson Conditions |
Conditions on this mountain, like all Colorado 14ers, are subject to change rapidly. These mountains are their own weather system, and weather forecasts from nearby towns often have little to do with actual mountain conditions. Be weather saavy and learn San Juan weather patterns to avoid getting caught on these mountains in a horrendous San Juan weather event.
External Links Images
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San Juan Range
