OverviewMount Louis was officially named in 1886 after an early Canadian Rockies surveyor. It was first ascended in 1916 by MacCarthy and the infamous Canadian climber Conrad Kain. (autobiography to the left-great read) The mountain is not a high one nor does it have a glacier or snowfield, but its monolithic profile (similar to the Dolomites) and vertically dipping faces give the tourists on the Trans-Canada something to stare at. The limestone of Mount Louis is Devonian. What makes Mount Louis more unique then its neighbors are the extreme steep cliffs which surround the peak from all angles. Mount Louis is one of a group of three peaks which are part of the Sawback Range (Edith and Fifi-yes, named after a dog). They are composed of rock layers which were originally horizontal but are now oriented vertically. The rock is better for climbing than what is typical in the Canadian Rockies. Mount Louis is most striking in the winter when the surrounding mountains are covered with snow but its vertical cliffs remain bare, producing a dramatic contrast. Located just to the north of Banff, it comes into view for just a short period driving through Banff National Park westbound on the Trans-Canada Highway.
     
There are only challenging Alpine III rock routes on Mount Louis, ranging from the popular Kain Route at 5.7 to Kor-Fuller at 5.10d. The summit register reads like a who’s who of North American climbers and was still in place during my 2003 summit.
Getting ThereThe Trans-Canada Highway dissects Banff National Park east to west as you come in from Calgary. Bypass the Banff town exits and take the Bow Valley Parkway exit. Follow the parkway for .3 km west to a road on your right, turn right and proceed to the Fireside Picnic area at the end of the road.
Red TapeYou will be required to purchase a national park pass as you enter the park. This pass is good for all four national parks. If you plan many visits to Canadian National Parks within one year, you should purchase an annual pass. There are no permit requirements to climb in Banff National Park, but all camping is regulated. There is also a backcountry permit required if you plan on spending a night in the backcountry versus the town campsites. This can be obtained via the parks website which is included in the camping section below. Park headquarters are located in Banff and you will drive through the manned kiosks as you enter the park.
This is active grizzly country, therefore, you should always have bear spray on your person.
When To ClimbMount Louis is alpine rock, so dry conditions are required. Being in the Bow Valley Corridor, dry conditions are possible almost anytime, but normally the best chance for success lies in June through September. Daylight hours are also something to consider before setting out. Lightning is a real issue on Louis. Not only is it conducive via its shape, but there is a steel cross on the summit as well.
CampingYou can go on line at Banff National Park to pick your camp site and obtain your camping permit. The closest camping is back in the town site of Banff, or if you want to avoid the hustle and bustle, you can camp further down the Bow Valley Parkway at , Johnston Canyon Resort and Campground .
Mountain ConditionsBanff National Park’s website has weather, wildlife reports, trail closures, etc. Outside of the parks web site, Canadian Avalanche Association is also useful, particularly for winter travel.
RoutesKain Route (Normal Route) III 5.6/7
A famous climb put up in a very casual manner while Kain was accompanying MacCarthy and some friends on a "day's picnic to view the scenery". It is now a very popular route to the top of one of the more striking mountains in the area. The hardest climbing is at the very end. If the weather breaks, downclimbing the route is reasonable for experienced parties. In fact, some parties actually use this as the descent route. It has been climbed in two hours but most parties take a little longer. The first ascent was done in 4 hours. However, don't underestimate this route: the number of bivi walls in the upper half of the climb attests to the number of parties who either overestimated their ability or underestimated the difficulty of the route.
Homage to the Spider III 5.8
This route is named in tribute to Walter Perren, "the Spider of Zermatt", who pioneered the summit variation on the Kain route by seeking out the best limestone. There are about 8 pitches of steep climbing on some of the best rock found on the mountain. It's an aesthetic line, well worth the extra 20 minutes of approach. The climb ascends the steep face on the east side of NE ridge of the mountain.
Gmoser Route III 5.8
The route I first climbed on this mountain. A very impressive ascent for its day and one of the best moderate alpine rock routes in the Banff area. The rock is typically clean and the standard is reasonably consistent (5.5-5.6) except for a steep corner system in the lower third. 5.7/8 climbers will find the crux a good challenge. It combines with the best climbing on the Kain Route and is a fitting approach to the Perren variation.
Kor/Fuller III 5.10d
Takes the big groove/gully in the centre of the S face. The crux pitch is sustained and tiring when done free. Undoubtedly much easier at 5.8 A1!
Greenwood/MacKay III 5.7
Excellent for the grade; the position on the upper rib is superb. The lower gully section should be climbed as quickly as possible - it's a haven for falling rocks, though safer possibilities do exist.
External Links Images
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Canadian Rockies Alpine Climbs
