Soaking in the alpine splendor of the mighty San Juan. Looking generally east from the southeast ridge of Wildhorse Peak. Wetterhorn and Uncompahgre in the distance, Dragon's Back in the foreground. One of Colorado's finest views from any mountain! Summer, 2003
Photo by Aaron Johnson

Rock formation and Wildhorse Peak (right)on a glorious San Juan Morning

Above photo by SP member Jack B

Wildhorse Peak is a solitary low 13er in the Uncompahgre Wilderness, about 2 miles north of Engineer Pass in the San Juan mountains. Wildhorse Peak's striking silhouette is usually spotted from Highway 550, south of Cologna as one drives toward Ridgway. A sharp eye can spot this peak's unmistakable shape from most summits in the north San Juan. While not a major summit compared to its neighbors, Wildhorse Peak commands an impressive view. The stunning summit of Wildhorse Peak can be easily climbed in a half day round trip from Engineer Mountain.

Engineer Mountain can be climbed by any choice of routes. Chances are the difficulty would not exceed Class 1 because the mountain is made up of gentle slopes. The Lake City side is covered in typically loose San Juan rock. The Ouray side is covered in tundra. You can begin your climb from any desired location along the Engineer Pass Road and make it as long and as difficult as you like.

However most folks that do climb Engineer choose to climb it from the high point of the Engineer Pass road. This is a steep pull up loose tundra and scree for 300 feet elevation to the summit. Some follow the challenging jeep road, the scene of many fatal accidents, which has been closed for some time. The reward for your brief, fleeting effort is the unobscured view of the mighty San Juan range. The view is simply unmatched in Colorado for such a short jaunt.

Engineer Mountain was the victim of progress, the chosen sentinel among many to fall prey to the desires of man. Viewed by many as an affront to the environment, Engineer stands as a glaring symbol of what mankind can do without pause to his environment in the name of the pursuit of riches.

Engineer Pass was once a wagon and stage road, serving Lake City, Ouray, Silverton and all the mining camps and towns between. The mountain is dotted with mine shafts, tunnels and ruins dating back to Colorado's earliest history. This was the wild west for sure, with miners, cowboys, robbers and ladies of the night. For those interested in this exciting time of Colorado history, Engineer Mountain and much of the surrounding area is a haven of living history, albiet most of the relics are uttering last breaths in succumbing to the march of time and the relentless San Juan winters.

A visit to Engineer Mountain will not disappoint you. You are welcomed and encouraged to climb Engineer if you feel compelled to do so. If you choose to use your 4WD instead, the mountain understands, as it has been that way for but a brief time in the millions of years it has been on the planet. Everyone gets something unique from every mountain they visit. Engineer Mountain is no different.

Engineer was likely first climbed by miners. More remote Wildhorse Peak was climbed in 1935 by Kenneth Segerstrom in a hopeful first ascent. Alas, at the summit he found a .30-.30 shell with a note stuffed inside that indicated a recorded first ascent on August 25, 1899 by Ely and F.H. Stanton and William Killen. You just never know who has gone before you!

Arial view of Engineer Mountain's Jeep Trails

Upon a recent return to Wildhorse Peak, it was decided that Engineer Mountain should share equal billing with Wildhorse, given that Wildhorse is the higher peak. Both mountains offer a unique experience. Expect much company on Engineer, while peaceful solitude will envelope you on Wildhorse Peak.

Getting There

SILVERTON

From Silverton, head northeast on County 110 through Eureka towards Animas Forks. The road to this point is generally good quality and can be driven in most durable cars. Here you can either park and begin the long trek up the steep road to Engineer Pass, or if you have a vehicle with four-wheel drive you can drive to the "parking area corner" just before Engineer Pass (12,800 ft.) and start the short climb up to the top for a great view.

Once at the preserved ghost town of Animas Forks, only 4WD vehicles should continue up the road. Signs will direct you past the turn-off for Cinammon Pass, which takes you over to Lake City, and Denver Pass and Lake, which winds over Mineral Point before rejoning the main road. Do not drive up through Animas Forks or you'll end up on the California Gulch and Treasure Mountain roads. They are easy and fun roads, but they do not take you to Engineer.

Signs will direct you to the Engineer Pass road, which winds its way up the south side of the mountain via switchbacks and then a narrow shelf road to the "parking area corner." At this corner, a left turn follows a spur ridge running west from Engineer's summit cone. A number of parking options are available on this perch at nearly 13,000 feet. Approximate mileage from Silverton to Engineer Pass is 17 miles.

OURAY

Engineer can be reached from Ouray as well. Head south out of town up Highway 550. Just past Bear Creek Falls overlook is the turn-off for the Alpine Scenic Byway, which is also the Engineer Pass road. This is a very rugged road and 4WD experience is highly recommended. Switchbacks lead to a narrow shelf road on the face of a cliff. While dramatic and beautiful, a skillfull driver with his mind on where his wheels are placed is certainly required.

A right handed turn off on a switchback leads up Poughkeepsie gulch, one of Colorado's roughest jeep roads. There will be a sign indicating such. Extensive experience and a specialized 4WD vehicle are required for this road.

Continue up the Engineer Pass road through switchbacks and mine ruins. The Mineral Point Road and mine ruins will eventually be seen on the right. Restroom facilities will be passed just before leaving the trees for good and entering the high tundra just below Engineer Mountain. The turn for the pass is not far beyond. Approximate mileage from Ouray to Engineer Pass is 15 miles.

LAKE CITY

From "downtown"Lake City, the Engineer road leaves Highway 149 due west at a well marked junction indicating Henson Creek and Engineer Pass. Follow this well maintained county road past trailhead accesses for Uncompahgre and Wetterhorn peaks. Past the townsite of Capital City, now a spot for summer residences, the road narrows and will get a bit rougher, but can be driven carefully with most passenger cars. When the road crosses Henson Creek on a bridge by a ski hut, its gets steep and rough and will test most vehicles without 4WD capability. The road becomes a shelf road with switchbacks to access American Flats just beneath Engineer Pass. Once in the flats, the road widens and becomes civil for the push to the pass itself. Approximate mileage from Lake City to ngineer Pass is 15 miles.

The climb to the Engineer summit can be made from the parking area. A longer and fun scramble up the north ridge can be made from the pass itself. To do this, continue from the"parking area corner" another 1/8 mile to the pass.

Climbs of Wildhorse can be made from the pass or just below the pass (Lake City side) at the sign indicating the Horsethief Trail. See the AMERICAN FLATS route description in the ROUTE SECTION.

See the LINKS section (upper left) for the Lake City, Ouray and Silverton web sites. See ROUTE OPTIONS below for area trail choices.

Route Options

The following options are presented in the interest of providing a brief and undetailed listing of backpacking alternatives for the area. These routes could include a hike to the summit of Wildhorse Peak or Engineer Mountain. The network of backpacking trails in the San Juans rates beyond compare. Consult the many guide books available for specifics when planning your trip.

The first two routes are described as departing FROM OURAY:

THE BRIDGE OF HEAVEN via HORSETHIEF TRAIL
Starts 3.5 miles up Dexter Creek Road, north of Ouray. At 1.9 miles is a great overlook point. At 4 miles, the Bridge of Heaven (12,300ft) is reached, a narrow ridge traverse that drops off on both sides. The route climbs up around the northeast side of the Amphitheater , with options to the Bear Creek area below Engineer and American Flats, north of Engineer, near Wildhorse Peak in the Uncompahgre Wilderness. The trail is marked with cairns beyond the Bridge of Heaven. From Dexter Creek trailhead to Bear Creek Trailhead, it's a 20 mile trip, all above timberline!

BEAR CREEK NATIONAL RECREATION TRAIL
This spectacular National Recreation Trail that starts from Highway 550 just south of Ouray. The highway goes under a tunnel, and you can park on the other side. The trail starts on the west side of the highway and climbs up over the tunnel. This spectacular mining trail, cut from the side of the Amphitheater Massif by miners, winds its way up to awesome views in dramatic fashion. This shelf trail has some narrow moments, and it's amazing to think of how it was built. The trail follows the Bear Creek drainage eastward toward Engineer Mountain, eventually linking up with the Horsethief Trail. The Grizzly Bear mine is reached at 2.4 miles, and the Yellow Jacket mine is reached at 4.2 miles. The trail forks here. An eastbound trail (left) goes to American Flats and the Wildhorse Peak area. The right hand option leads to Engineer Mountain.

AMERICAN FLATS via HORSETHIEF TRAIL
Just east of Engineer Pass, a sign indicating the HORSETHIEF TRAIL is located along the road, where a former jeep trail departs northward across the vast tundra expanse of American Flats. This great scar upon the landscape is still used for livestock and horseback outings, so it will remain for decades to come. Along with recent new signs, cairns and posts, it is easy to follow as it winds its way northward across the tundra. Junctions with other trails include the Bear Creek Trail, Bridge of Heaven and Difficulty Creek.

For orientation purposes, here is a Topozone Map.

Red Tape

ENGINEER MOUNTAIN

Parking at or near Animas Forks is more than sufficient, however near the pass the road is narrow and steep, making it difficult to park safely. It is recommended that you park at the "parking area corner" which is the high point of the road. Obvious parking spots will be visible when you reach the corner. Lots of parking is at the pass itself, around the northwest side of the mountain another 1/8 mile.

Bear Creek National Recreation Trail: No fees or access problems. Parking is available on the east side of Route 550, right after passing through the tunnel just south of Ouray. The trail starts from the west side of the road and climbs up over the tunnel due east.

WILDHORSE & ENGINEER

Horsethief Trail:
DEXTER CREEK OPTION: Limited parking available, but respect private property by parking the last 100 feet up the road to the trailhead.
ENGINEER PASS: Parking available along the north side of the road or at the pass. Be sure to park your vehicle well off the road.

When To Climb

Telluride/Western San Juan Regional Weather

GOES Western Satellite Image

Summer and Fall are the best times to climb these mountains. The liesurely tundra walk to Wildhorse Peak is exposed to the elements for the entire distance. Early starts to avoid the notorious and violent San Juan afternoon weather is strongly recommended.

The roads are lined with cross country markers, but the area is not known for cross country skiing due to the considerable avalanche danger. The San Juans are notorious for avalanches during normal and heavy winters. Engineer Mountain is prime territory for avalanches.

Spring ascents would be long and challenging and would certainly require winter gear and full backpack provisions.

Uncompahgre National Forest Web Site

Camping

Camping anywhere in the area is feasible other than on the mountains themselves. Water sources are likely polluted or at least high in mineral content.

High alpine wilderness camping possibilities are many. A backpack north into the Uncompahgre Wilderness from Engineer Pass would yield countless camping possibilities. This is all high alpine tundra environment, so a camp will be exposed to the elements. Water sources in this area are excellent.

Camping in the Bear Creek drainage west of Engineer Mountain is also possible. This option would be reached via a long backpack approach up the spectacular Bear Creek Trail from Highway 550. A high alpine camp would be a fine stage from which to launch a short hike up Engineer.

Local History

Nearby Animas Forks was the initial home of Tom Walsh, who for a time was the owner of the famous Hope Diamond. The diamond had made its way across the Atlantic, surviving the tragic sinking of theTitanic. Walsh came into possession of the diamond prior to coming to Animas Forks. The diamond had become legendary in that to those who owned it great fortune would come.

Tom Walsh made an early fortune at Animas Forks, allowing him to build one of America's most famous mining era relics, the Tom Walsh house at Animas Forks. Walsh took his fortune and invested it in the Camp Bird mining operation above Ouray and went on to become a millionaire. The Hope Diamond now resides in the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C.

Some of the mining towns and camps that surrounded Engineer Mountain prospered, but most failed. A success story of the area was Mineral Point, just south of the mountain. At one time, Mineral Point boasted 1,000 residents and turned an impressive profit in gold and silver.

The Silver Crash of 1914 had an adverse affect on most of the mining operations in the San Juan region. When silver prices plummeted, so ended the mining era boom of the San Juans. Silence would return to these mountains during the 30s and 40s. With the advent of World War 2, many of the ruins were scavenged for metal, steel and piping to be recycled into the war effort, as in the construction of battleships. Many of the towns were stripped bare, and the legacy of the San Juan mining history was all but wiped from existence.

The San Juan Historical society has taken measures to rebuild and reinforce a number of the more important structures, including the massive California Mine (Bagley Tunnel) and the Tom Walsh House. Unfortunately, many of these wonderful ruins have recently collapsed into utter decay due to the ravages of 100+ years.

New gold arrived for the San Juan region in the 1980s. Tourism finally took hold with the ending of the recession from the Regan years. The San Juans currently attract all types of recreation, but above all, the San Juans have become what they should be: the precious fortune of a mountaineer's paradise!

External Links

Lake City Web Site
Information on Lake City and surrounding area
Ouray Web Site
Information on Ouray and the surrounding area
Silverton, Colorado
Silverton web site

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