Overview
One of Colorado's Highest 100! (67th)
Gladstone Peak is part of the San Miguel Mountains located in the Lizard Head Wilderness and sits halfway in both Uncompahgre National Forest and San Juan National Forest. It is connected to two fourteeners (Wilson Peak and Mount Wilson) by loose rocky ridges. El Diente is another 14er that is close by. The usual approach is from the north, through Silver Pick Basin. Gladstone Peak presents an impressive view from the saddle at the head of Silver Pick Basin, or is the dominate feature at the head of Navajo Basin when approaching from the west. One of the few colorado glaciers, Navajo Glacier, is located in a gully between Gladstone and nearby 14,246 foot Mt. Wilson. Gladstone is often overlooked and therefore uncrowded, due to the three fourteeners in the area. Gladstone Peak itself reaches a height of 13,913 feet, some 90 feet or so under 14,000. However, this Peak is not to be taken lightly, as the peak is a huge pile of loose rock. It is for EXPERIENCED CLIMBERS ONLY! Even the EASIEST route on this peak is said to be a class 4! To climb the mountain you should have extensive experience in loose terrain climbing, aside from that, this is a frequent avalanche area.
Getting There
Drive on Colorado 145 heading west from Telluride. At Vandadium, turn south on the Big Bear Creek Road, Forest Service 622. Drive four miles south to a junction and turn right up the hill. Cross to east side of the creek after about a quarter mile. Then at the fork after another mile and a quarter turn right. The road continues on for a few miles all the way to the abandonded Silver Pick Mill, however, cars are prohibited well before this.
Check road conditions here.
Red Tape
No fees or permits are required. The peak however, lies in Lizard Head Wilderness. Wilderness areas deserve the utmost care, please respect the environment in the area. All it takes for fees to be instated is for someone to screw up by leaving a bunch of trash on the mountain. In places such as California, it costs $5 dollars just to park in the National Forest. Please respect the environment, and the rest of us wont have to pay any fees. "Leave No Trace" is the main policy of the wilderness area.
The "Leave No Trace" Regulations are as follows:
Plan Ahead and Prepare
Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces
Dispose of Waste Properly
Leave What You Find
Minimize Campfire Impacts
Respect Wildlife
Be Considerate of Other Visitors
When To Climb
June through September is the best time to make the climb, but the snow fall from the year before, determines the accesibility. Snow is possible at any time of year, so be prepared. Winter climbs are possible, but usually recommended for experienced climbers.
On the actual climbing day, it is best to start early in the morning to avoid thunder bumpers. I would suggest that you plan to reach the summit by no later than 11:30, it's that serious a threat.
Climbing Periods:
October-May: Expect high snow levels and high wind in places. Snow can fall at any time without warning. You shouldnt attempt a mountain at this time if you are not experienced climber. Even then, you shouldnt attempt the mountain if you are not familiar with the area. There are dangerous places on the mountain where you can slip through crevasses. Avalanches occur with high frequency in various places. Be sure to know where these places are.
June: June is a transitional period between summer and spring-winter. Snow levels start to fall quickly in June, but in the rockies, snow levels can still be quite high in June and often are. One of the best reasons to go in June is because it is before the monsoon season in which there is a regular occurence of lightning storms. Freezing temperatures still occur regularly at this time.
July-August: This is the peak of climbing season in Colorado. Although it occurs at the same time as the monsoons. In a normal year, lightening storms occur regularly at around noon. I eamn regularly, in the July-August period there are probably 45-50 days of thunderstorms. Do not attempt to climb the peak during a storm.
September: The other transition period for the mountains. At this time, the aspens change color and the first snows begin to fall. Cold temperatures begin to occur regularly again. This is basically the last time to attempt a climb.
This is a frequent avalanche slide area. Check here for a report on avalanche disasters near Gladstone Peak.
Mountain Conditions
Check with the local news weather reports before making a climb. Telluride Weather is a website which includes current conditions, snow coverage, and extended forecasts. This is the closest town to the peak.
Do not rely on the forecasts because weather in the high country is very unpredictable and can change quickly. Many experienced climbers have been killed when trapped on the mountain during a lightening storm. To avoid the regular occurrence of thunder storms on the mountain you should plan to bag the peak in the morning, getting to the summit around 10 o'clock. After 11:30 the weather can change very quickly, LEAVE THE MOUNTAIN AT THE FIRST SIGN OF THUNDER BUMPERS! The air is very thin in the mountain, people unaccustomed to high altitude can get altitude sickness. If you begin to feel dizzy, slow down, and relax. Check with Uncompaghre National Forest at:
USDA Forest Service
2250 Highway 50
Delta, CO 81416
Phone:
(970) 874-6600
Check here for information on snow percipitation.
Camping and Lodging
Camping Camping is allowed at the trailhead. Due to the popularity of this area, and its fourteeners, camping fills up in a hurry on weekends and holidays. As always, 300 feet from a water source.
Lodging Telluride is a close town with plenty of inns, motels, and even luxury hotels. The following is a list from the Colorado Hotels website:
Bear Creek Lodge at Mountain Village
135 San Joaquin Road
Telluride, CO 81435 US
Blue Mesa Lodge, Telluride, CO
Mountain Village
Telluride, CO 81435 US
Cabins and Penthouses at The Peaks Wyndham Luxury Resort
109 Sunny Ridge
Telluride, CO 81435 US
Mountain Lodge Wyndham Luxury Resort
457 Mountain Village Boulevard
Telluride, CO 81435 US
Telluride Mountainside Inn
333 S. Davis St
Telluride, CO 81435 US
The Hotel Telluride
199 North Cornet Street
Telluride, CO 81435 US
The Peaks Wyndham Luxury Resort
136 Country Club Drive
Telluride, CO 81435 US
The San Sophia Inn and Condominiums
330 West Pacific Ave
Telluride, CO 81435 US
Things to See
Gladstone Peak lies in the beautiful Lizard Head Wilderness. Wildlife is everywhere! There are elk, bear, bighorn sheep, deer, and many species of birds. I've also heard of Mountain Goat spottings in the area, they are very rare and stick to the most secluded places. This is place is also special because it is one of the last places where Grizzley Bears have been seen. Although that was some decades ago, the Denver Museam of National History claims that they still exist in the isolated parts of the San Miguel Mountains (yeah right). Above timberline, there are dozens of species of wildflower including the Colorado Columbine which is Colorado's state flower. Gladstone Peak also hosts one of the few glaciers in Colorado, the Navajo Glacier which sits nestled in a narrow saddle.
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