Overview
MOUNT AETNA Photo by Aaron Johnson, Summer, 1978 When seen for the first time, Mt. Aetna is one of Colorado’s most striking mountains. The mountain is usually seen from the south on the Monarch Pass portion of Highway 50. Towering above its immediate neighbors, Aetna rises fast, steep and gracefully to command awesome views of the Sawatch range. The mountain is most readily identified by the “Grand Couloir” feature that runs up the south face to the flat summit ridge. 13, 746 feet high, Aetna is climbed regularly, but not at the frequency seen on Colorado’s higher thirteeners. Solitude on this mountain is a pretty good bet.
The route described in the ROUTES section (left) is a typical Class 2 Sawatch climb: Immediately steep and relentless all the way to the top. The nice thing about this route is that it can be done in either direction. A shuttle vehicle is recommended to execute the loop option, preferably a vehicle with 4WD capability.
Mt. Aetna is Colorado’s 127th highest mountain. Neighboring Taylor Peak is Colorado’s 172nd highest mountain. Mt. Aetna was not the scene of mining activity, nor did it figure prominently in any aspect of Colorado history. It is a mountain for its own sake, in the purest concept of what a mountain should be, and therefore an ideal mountain for a climber to seek out.
Getting ThereTake Colorado Highway 50 to the town of Garfield, on the east side of Monarch Pass. A road up the Middle Fork of the South Arkansas River starts in town just west of the Monarch Guides building. Head north up this road (FSR230) about two miles. Entering a clearing, be on the lookout for Mount Aetna’s towering slopes to your right. When you are looking directly up Aetna’s trademark “Grand Couloir”, you are at the beginning of the climb described in the ROUTE section. Parking is limited on the right side of the road.
When To ClimbSummer and fall months are best for climbing Mount Aetna. Winter ascents are not recommended due to extreme avalanche danger, particularly in the Grand Couloir. Snow climbs in late May and June would be excellent early season alternatives.
CampingMany excellent possibilities exist along FSR230. A KOA campground is located north of Highway 50 east of Garfield.
Mountain ConditionsMt. Aetna sees a tremendous amount of wind at all times of the year. Expect Class 2 rock scrambling on the upper portions of the mountain.
Avalanche Conditions
Sawatch Range Forecast
GOES Western US Satellite Image
Images
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Sawatch Range
