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North & South Suicide Peaks
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North & South Suicide Peaks 

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Alaska, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 61.03430°N / 149.56911°W

Elevation: 5065 ft / 1544 m

 

Page By: Clintoris

Created/Edited: Jun 5, 2005 / Oct 21, 2005

Object ID: 154183

Hits: 2812 

Page Score: 80.23% - 8 Votes 

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Overview


North and South Suicide Peaks are not only some of the most prominent peaks in Alaska's Chugach mountains visible from Anchorage, they are also the two most uniform. Like two near identical twins rising just short of a mile into the sky, these peaks are almost one in the same. With a height difference of less than sixty feet, it is hard to tell which is taller even from the base of the two beautiful mountains.

While these peaks are climbed by a fair amount of people, it is rare to see another person on the mountain at the same time. Usually footprints and melted tracks are the only evidence of other climbers having reached the summit.

If there is enough time, these two peaks can both be done in one day.

Getting There


There are multiple ways to get to the Suicide Peaks. One is by coming from the Rabbit Valley trail. Hike five miles into the valley from the trailhead gate to the end of the valley at Rabbit Lake. The peaks will become visible after a short while, looming dead ahead at the end of the valley.

Another way to get to the peaks is from McHugh trail on the New Seward Highway. The trail will lead you to the summit ridge of South Suicide. While it is much more of a hike than a climb, it is still quite fun. Brown bears are commonly seen on this trail and a man was even mauled to death by one on this trail in the early 1990s.


Red Tape


No permits are required and there are no parking fees if you go by the Rabbit Creek way.

When To Climb


Climbs are done all throughout the year, but I personally find it easier to climb these peaks in the winter since you don't have to fight the endless scree to the top. Climbing in the winter gives the "big mountain" feel since there are some highly technical lines on both of these peaks.

For North Suicide, the best route from the bottom of the valley is the South face. With slopes ranging from 30-50 degrees, it isn't too difficult, but can be dangerous and quite likely deadly if a fall is unable to be arrested since there are tons of jagged rocks throughout the route waiting to rip apart a fallen climber.
Climb to the top, circumnavigating several large boulders.

Four South Suicide, simply climb the obvious couloir that emties right into the bowl. This leads you to the top of the saddle, just above Thumb Rock. From here it is only a 15 minute climb up snow and scree (depending upon the season) to the top.

**If you wish to climb both peaks in one day, I would suggest climbing South Suicide first, then decending to the saddle (also known as the Windy Gap). From there, simply climb up the other side of the saddle to the top of South Suicide. Then, descend the couloir back down to the bowl at the shore of Rabbit Lake.

Camping


Rabbit Lake is one of the most beautiful places to camp in all of the Chugach. It is secluded, yet close to Anchorage. The pure lake shines a dark, sun-soaked blue, while the Suicide Peaks, Homicide Peak, Ptarmigan Peak, and the entire McHugh Valley are visible. Camping is free.

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