Montana's entry in the seemingly omnipresent name-a-mountain-after-the-great-bear sweepstakes is Grizzly Mountain. The state has only one so named, although there is a Grizzly Peak in the Custer National Forest (not far from Red Lodge); also, GNP does have one

Grizzly Mountain, from Rising Wolf

other peak making use of the word "grizzly"—Medicine Grizzly Peak, in the Cut Bank Area of the park. Grizzly Mountain, the subject of this page, is located in the Two Medicine area of the park, is reached via a good trail, and even though it is necessary to leave that trail for the final almost mile-and-a-half ascent, is by no means a difficult climb. It is a true scamble, with the only drawback being that of length—eleven miles from trailhead to summit—but that happenstance becomes secondary to the rewards, which, simply put, is that the trek winds through mountain wilderness at its best and after approximately eight miles, upon reaching Two Medicine Pass the views become...spectacular. From that point to the summit the view is of an unfolding panorama of peaks mostly not nearly as easy to reach as where you are, and some (actually, many) of which enhance their remoteness by being, in fact, more than a little challenging to summit. In climbs such as this it is easy to dream, and plan of days and weeks lost in the sea of peaks around you!

Grizzly Mountain's View of the Neighborhood

Grizzly Mountain's View of the Neighborhood II

Getting There

From the north, take Hwy 89 south from Saint Mary, turning on Hwy 49—a very winding, paved road; slow going, but with wonderful views!—for approximately eight miles until the Two Medicine turnoff, then it is seven easy miles to the campground, ranger station, store, boat dock, and ample parking. From the south, take Hwy 2 to East Glacier, and in town turn on Hwy 49, heading north out of town for four miles to the Two Medicine road.

Standard Precautionary Note: All GNP roads are closed in winter, with Going-to-the-Sun Road (the major route through the park; its eastern terminus is at Saint Mary) sometimes not opening until July (average opening is second week in June; earliest opening ever is May 16, 1987, with the second earliest being May 22, 2005). Don't head out early in the year (i.e., June/early July) without checking the status of these roads—it is not unusual to have repeated, sometimes lengthy, road closures due to storms, avalanches, rock slides, or all three! The same holds true for late in the year; weather changes dramatically in Glacier, beginning usually around the end of August, with road closures normally becoming more and more frequent throughout the month of September (although don't shy away from going, there can also be very nice—albeit cool or cold—days of Indian Summer throughout this time frame; plus the park is relatively free of people after Labor Day). The following links are relatively self-explanatory, and provide all sorts of useful information:

Current GNP Road Status

Map of Waterton/Glacier International Peace Park
(Note that clicking on the image after it loads brings up an enlarged version, making it MUCH easier to read.)

And finally, click here for current information, as well as easy access to some
interesting photos showing the Plowing of Going-to-the-Sun Road.

Route

From parking lot to summit is 11 miles, of which nine-and-a-half are on a good trail, with the remaining distance on the mountain being a not difficult scramble over mostly loose (but not so loose as to cause difficulty) rock. Total elevation gain is just under 4000'. The trail also has the advantage of the first 3 miles being level, so by the time it begins climbing you are well warmed up—something not all that common an occurrence in my mountaineering experience! I'd not classify the trail as anything more than moderately steep (although it is that), and in early July of this, an unusually dry year, there was plenty of water from springs and melting snow, enough that carrying extra would be unnecessary.

For the first 3.3 miles the trail is the same route taken as for climbing Sinopah Mountain. The trailhead is at the southwest end of the (large) parking area, just beyond the fee booth for the Two Medicine Lake boat rides. It is well marked, well maintained, and presents no problems. There are a couple of junctions, both signed; stay left at each, at one point crossing a suspension bridge (at this point, just upon starting across the bridge, Grizzly Mountain shows itself for the first time); after those 3.3 easy miles you reach the picturesque Rockwell Falls (and where, were you doing Sinopah Mountain, you'd leave the trail and head off to the right). Stay the course, however, and once across the creek your level meandering is over; the trail immediately begins climbing steadily, and, basically, doesn't level out until it reaches Two Medicine Pass, and even then is not really level—you'll both gain and lose elevation while crossing the pass.

A couple miles past the falls you enter a large basin, and at this point will be able to see the Two Medicine Pass ridge before you. It is, however, still quite a ways—it's not as close as it looks!—but eventually you do, indeed, reach it. Two Medicine is a long pass, about 1.6 miles across via a rounded ridge—rounded, I'm convinced, by the eternally infernally wildly blowing winds that haunt the area pretty much all the time. Anyway, when you get to the pass, face up to the wind fact, then continue onward, and, eventually, upward.

The trail takes you the 1.6 miles across the pass, then heads down the other side to points unknown (well...actually, that's not quite true; you will join up with the Park Creek Trail and find yourself heading into some of the remotest country in Glacier, some of which is almost unknown). To continue: where you go is never less than obvious; as the trail heads down off the pass keep going straight ahead, and up the mountain. While climbing angle slightly to the right so as to wrap around, because upon reaching the summit block there are some cliffs you have to pick your way through—not difficult, and a welcome change from that of the constant climb—and it is easier if your initial approach is from the right. The actual summit is (of course) the furthest of three sets of cliffs you must traverse. But then you're there, and the view makes it worth it. And the country you've experienced along the way makes it worth it. You could have done a LOT worse than climb this particular long, but easy, mountain!

The Red Tape, Wildlife, & Cautions Section

No permits required, but you must pay a park entry fee, which is $25 for one week, or $35 for an annual pass. Registration for day climbs in Glacier National Park is recommended, but not mandatory. Probably anyone prone to climbing in this part of the country already knows this, but the Northern Rockies are full of wildlife. Always be aware, and don't do anything stupid, like—for example—feed the bears, think that a mountain lion is even remotely related to your pet cat, or run up to a moose (moose are quite unpredictable, irritable, and very dangerous). And never, ever, EVER forget you're in grizzly country; they insist on being left alone—disagreement on that point is not an argument you'll win! Bear spray and noise should be part of every GNP foray you make into the back country. Black bears will be found in the forests, grizzlies commonly venture onto the above-timberline tundra, sometimes, when in pursuit of such delicacies as ladybugs or cutworm moth larva, even to the peaks! Also note that improperly stored food in park campgrounds (i.e., scraps left around the table or campfire, or edibles in your tent rather than your car) will subject you to a $50 fine. If you wander off, leaving your pack unattended, and there is food in it which attracts the attention of, for example, a bear, it is also a fine. Folks, the Park Service is serious about not providing human food access to the critters!

When To Climb, & Climbing Considerations

From late June/early July (during this time frame expect LOTS of snow in the high elevations) to early fall, depending on snow conditions. Traditional climbing season in the Northern Rockies is July, August, and September—with September weather becoming progressively colder and more unstable (sometimes dramatically so: PAY ATTENTION!) as the month progresses—but does of course vary from year to year. There are occasional winter climbs in the park, but not often, and then only by well-equipped, area-wise, extremely competent individuals. Basically, most of GNP is inaccessable through the winter, and avalanche danger, to put it mildly, is extreme almost everywhere.

CLIMBING CONSIDERATIONS

Because of the nature of the rock, there are special considerations regarding climbing in Glacier National Park, and grading systems unique to the Park have been developed by both J. Gordon Edwards and the Glacier Mountaineering Society. Anyone doing more than just "trail" hiking in this part of the Rockies should read the excellent and important information put together by Fred and Moni Spicker. Much—if not most—of the rock in GNP is sedimentary and rotten, and you need to know about it: Glacier National Park Rock & Grading Systems.

Camping

There are numerous campgrounds available within Glacier National Park, of which only Fish Creek and Saint Mary take reservations (not required, but probably a good idea during the peak summer tourist period, especially on weekends). There are also many campgrounds as well as motels just outside the park on both the west and east sides. Grizzly Mountain is in the Two Medicine area (which has a good campground; see link below on current campground information), just a short drive from East Glacier Park, and not much further from Browning. The town of Saint Mary (about a 45 minute drive) has a KOA. Lodging, whether camping or indoors, should be no problem. There are also several restaurants in all three communities.

Click here for General Camping Information, and click here for Current Site Availability in specific campgrounds.

The communities of East Glacier Park, Browning, Babb, and Saint Mary, are all on the Blackfeet Indian Reservation, where there a great many additional services available.

Also, for those so inclined...GNP does have Backcountry Campsites throughout the park. Some of these sites can be reserved; others are on a first come basis. Anyone doing extensive, several day, remote hiking/climbing would be well advised to check this out.

There is a campsite at Cobalt Lake (exact location shown via the "Backcountry Campsites" link), which is in the basin just before Two Medicine Pass; check at the Two Medicine Ranger Station for availability.

Mountain Conditions

National Park Service What's New page with weather report link and web cams.

External Links

Glacier Mountaineering Society

Images



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