Highly visible and recognizable from the Mt. Baker region and just 0.4 miles from the USA/Canada border, American Border Peak looms in high relief above Tomyhoi Lake (W) and Silesia Creek Valley (E). Visitors of Heather Meadows, Goat Mt, Yellow Aster Butte, Tomyhoi Pk, and Church Mt. do not soon forget American Border Peak's imposing faces. The mountain has a reputation for being harder than it actually is but the approach is arguous and often underestimated.

American Border Peak is part of a chain of 4 peaks starting with the Pleiades (SE), Mt. Larrabee, ABP, & Canadian Border Peak (N). The mountain is composed of ancient sediments and volcanics of the Chilliwack group (phyllites, slates, and greenstones) and are connected by a high ridge that runs above 6,000ft for nearly 4 miles.

No trail leads to American Border Peak's seldom visited summit. Rock quality is often poor and climbers must be wary of loose rock, helmets mandatory. Every route involves considerable cross-country navigation, bushwacking, Class 3, 4, & low-5 rock, exposure, and lots of scree and/or snow travel. Winter ascents are possible based on conditions. All routes cross avalanche zones, snow conditions are highly variable, routes are mostly on W and/or ESE aspects. Wind loading can complicate things here as well. Avalanche Assesment Skill required

Views are expansive. American Border Peak ranks 63rd in Washington with 2,794ft of prominence. It's central location looks directly into the North Cascades, Canada at the Cheam and Coast ranges, Mt. Baker & Shuksan, and more. Waterfalls tumble down the precipitous East face of Tomyhoi Peak directly W of you. Unfortunately mining and logging have both slightly impacted this area, but its beauty remains captivating and strong, and mines offer further exlporation possibilities.

The most common route is the Southeast Face and is accessed (as are some other routes) from Twin Lakes. First Ascent by Alec Dalgeish, Tom Fyles, Stan Henderson, and R.A. Fraser Sept. 14th, 1930 (Southeast Face). First winter ascent by Henryk Mather and Hans Starr in March 1958 (Southeast Face).

Getting There

Twin Lakes Aproach:

Take exit 255 (Sunset/Mt Baker hwy) drive east 31 miles to the town of Glacier
Drive another 13.5 miles and take a left on forest service road 3065 (Twin Lakes Road)
Drive 5 miles (stay left at all forks) park at the Yellow Aster Butte/Lake Tomyhoi trailhead
***high clearance vehicles may be able to drive beyond this point but it gets very rough park at Twin Lakes Trailhead

Please be respectful

allows other drivers further access and the ability to turn around

5,200ft

check your snow levels

Always Check

Current Road Status

Slesse (Silesia) Creek Approach:

Drive East on the Trans-Canada Hwy 1
Take the Sardis Exit (Vedder Rd)
Drive S to Vedder Crossing. Turn sharply LEFT (east) at the near side of the Chilliwack River Bridge
After 12.6 miles (21.2km) take the Slesse Creek Rd
After 3.7 miles a take the Right Fork toward to an army bridge and demolition area (keep hands and legs in the ride, road is sometime temporarily closed to practice blowing things up)
Shortly after the bridge take the spur road heading SW up towards Canadian Border Peak. Drive as far as you can (the road may be in very poor shape), park, and hike the remainder of the road.

Red Tape

A Northwest Forest Pass is required for each vehicle parked at either the TWIN LAKES or Yellow Aster Butte trailhead, $5 Dollars per day or $30 for an annual pass.

Where to get PARKING PASSES:

SHELL GAS STATION: in Maple Falls, is on the right (heading East). They make good pretzels too. ---NO GASOLINE AVAILABLE BEYOND THIS POINT!!!--- no gas between Maple Falls and Deming (heading West).

GLACIER PUBLIC RANGER STATION: (360) 599-2714

Closed for the season after Oct. 11

Bellingham REI: (360) 647-8955
400 36th St Bellingham. Take a left off exit 252 (WWU-Bill McDonald Parkway), another left, it's in the Haggen lot.

When to Climb

American Border Peak can be climbed year around. Generally Spring-Late spring is the best time to climb while there is still snow covering the talus and scree slopes, making travel easier.

Camping

Campsites:

Twin Lakes
Gargett Mine

A boulder cluster bellow the ABP-Larrabee Ridge

Mountain Conditions

Check Snow Level
Check Avalanche Report
Check Weather Forecast
...More Info
Current Road Status

Remember that these are general warnings and forecast, always use good judgement and retreat if necessary.

Gear Notes

Given the loose nature of the rock protection is difficult. Slinging natural anchors usually offers the best protection. Middle to large size cams, hexes and large nuts, smaller gear would be suspect, think about bringing some pins.

Helmet
Rope
Slings
Ice Axe**
Crampons**

** Except late season on the twin lakes approach.

Photo courtesy of member Just B. From center left (the jagged peak) to right is Mt. Slesse (B.C), Mt. McGuire (B.C) Canadian Border Peak (B.C), American Border Peak, Mt. Larrabee, Yellow Aster Butte, and Tomyhoi Peak.

Images



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