Overview
Mt. Logan is one of ten non-volcanic peaks over 9,000' in Washington state.
It has three glaciers on its flanks (Banded, Fremont, Douglas). Any route to the summit will involve some fourth class rock at the top, and the majority of climbers use one of these glaciers as well. The Logan massif sits on the Cascade crest, with Park and Bridge Creeks flowing East to Lake Chelan, while Thunder Creek flows West and its water ends up in the Skagit River. By far the most common climbing route is the Fremont Glacier route. Because Logan is so remote and surrounded by other peaks such as Goode, Storm King, Black, and Buckner, it is often climbed on the same trip as these other peaks. Mt. Logan affords one of the best views in the Cascade range, from Diablo lake to the Boston Glacier, and Mt. Rainier to the Pickets and Canada.
Getting There
Mt. Logan can be reached from the North Cascades Highway (Hwy 20) or from the Stehekin Valley.
To climb Logan via the Fremont Glacier, you'll need to get to Park Creek Pass. This Pass can be reached from hwy 20, or Stehekin. There is a 20 mile trail approach from highway #20, or a 14 mile approach from the driveable end of the Stehekin road. (12.5 mile road marker)
Highway 20 approach - From I-5 at exit 230 (Mt. Vernon) take hwy 20 East. Follow State Route 20 to Diablo Lake. Enter the South side of Colonial Creek Campground at milepost 130. Park in the lot above the boat ramp. One of the two trailheads for Thunder Creek Trail lies uphill from the parking lot behind the trailer dump station. Follow the trail that gains 5,000' in 20 miles to Park Creek Pass.
At the ten mile point on the trail, one could also choose to take the left fork at a trail junction, and head to Easy Pass, which allows access to the Douglas and Banded Glaciers.
Stehekin Approach - See the boat company's site for ferry schedule. They can also let you know about shuttle bus times. Just click here
link
From Stehekin, take the public shuttle bus ($5 a person) or other vehicle 13.5 miles from the boat dock to the end of the driveable road. Carry and ride a bike (or just walk) up the washed-out road to the Park Creek trailhead. The trailhead is at the 18 mile point on the road. One can also hike 14 miles East from the Cascade Pass trailhead to reach this Park Creek trailhead and campground. Follow the Park Creek trail 8.5 miles to Park Creek Pass. The trail is gradual and in the trees except for steep first and last miles. Camp sites exist at the 2 and 5 mile points.
To climb Logan from the Banded or Douglas Glacier sides, use hwy 20 or the Stehekin Valley and approach into the Fisher Creek or North Fork of Bridge Creek valleys.
Red Tape
The mountain is located inside the North Cascades National Park. Backcountry camping permits are required, and you'll probaby be getting them for a cross-country zone. They can be picked up at the NPS office in Sedro-Wooley, Marblemount or Stehekin. Phone numbers and information for these centers can be found at this link
There aren't established camps close to the peak (camping no longer allowed at Park Creek Pass). A beautiful bivi spot with a rock wall does exist at the edge of the Fremont Glacier closest to Park Creek Pass. Other nice bivi spots with year-round water can be found by following the trail 1/3 mile North from Park Creek Pass and investigating the meadows near a first stream crossing.
When To Climb
Generally June through September, depending on snow covering on trails and roads.
Hwy 20 is not open in the winter (usually closed November through April, depending on snow levels). The Stehekin road is only plowed to the 9 mile point in winter as well.
Current weather -
link to NOAA's spot forecast.
Images
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