Overview  on the way down, between motorcycle hill and ski hill, impressions that make it not easy to leave this range, Point Farine is seen
This peak is located on Kahiltna glacier on the west buttress route on Denali. You will find it left (west) of the ski hill camp. It is a beautiful mountain and well placed for an acclimatisation trip. Nobody should go, only to climb this peak, but if you are on the route to Denali, it is a good variety.
Like everywhere on the world´s “biggest” also here nobody cares about the smaller ones. In the ranger station I found out, that the point 9300 is called Point Ferine. Ferine was a French climber, who died near this peak during a attempt at the first winter accent on Denali.
In the year 2004 I did a line on the northeast- face and descended the east- ridge. But there are more possible lines on the mountain from the ski hill camp. Which are climbed, I don´t know. Maybe some, maybe none.
I started my roundtrip (solo) after coffee and cigarette at 9:00 p.m. The long days in the north make it possible to have such a great climb, with Hunter and Denali in the back, while friends are sleeping. 2 hours and 15 minutes later, i´ve been back at the tent, but I found good conditions on the face.
Getting There Fly to Anchorage and go by car or bus to Talkeetna. Read perfect informations on the Denali- page. From Talkeetna fly into the range to the base camp on southeast fork of Kahiltna Glacier. (also here you will find info on Denali page). Go down the heartbreak hill and up the glacier to ski hill camp, which is located below the ski hill called slope west of Kahiltna Dome. The peak is good visible and very close to the camp.
CampsYou have to camp “Alaskan style”. There is snow everywhere. Base camp and also the ski hill camp is located on the glacier. Take enough fuel for melting snow for your drinks, food and the morning shower, haha hoho. You will find the camp, because it is seldom, that there are no tents. Otherwise you will find the snow walls, which mark the formerly camp sites.
The west buttes route is densely populated, so respect the national park laws! For example you have to carry all your thrash out of the range and there are marked places for the toilet in the camp areas. I mean, the American style of bureaucracy are troublesome, but in this point, I have to agree: the mountains are kept kleen! Routes- East Ridge: 500m, PD, snow slopes up to 45°,
From ski hill camp seen, this is the left ridge of the mountain. The ridge is wide, but be careful with cornices! From the camp go towards the northeast- face and traverse left on steeper ground to reach the real ridge.
- Northeast- face: 500m, D-, 50°-55°, steps with 65°, maybe short mixed
It is the line left of the central rock pillar. The right constant snow face looks beautiful, but (2004) it has been impassable corniced. On the left you have to climb packed snow and a short mixed section (depends from choice of line and time of the year)
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