| Wall of Cracks, 5.8-5.12d Mountain/Rock |
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| Wall of Cracks, 5.8-5.12d   | 
| Page Type: Mountain/Rock Location: Nevada, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 36.10810°N / 115.4894°W Activities: Trad Climbing Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter | Page By: Dow Williams Created/Edited: Dec 3, 2008 / May 7, 2009 Object ID: 468497 Hits: 540 Loading... Page Score: 89.52% - 22 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview/Approach
On the northeast corner of Rainbow Mountain, at the entrance to Juniper Canyon, lies the Wall of Cracks. The Wall of Cracks consists of a collection of mostly moderate crack routes among several towers including the impressive Cloud Tower and its most infamous route Crimson Chrysalis. Wall of Cracks sits above an obvious ramp rising above the Juniper Canyon floor.
The approach for this wall, as for other routes in Juniper Canyon, starts at the Pine Canyon trail head off the Red Rocks loop road. There are two approaches to Juniper Canyon. Either hike down the main Pine Creek trail and traverse around the old home site to intersect Oak Creek Trail, or locate a more indistinct trail at the Fire Ecology Loop. They both require crossing Pine Creek and ascending up to the south bank. In any regard, you hook into the Oak Creek trail and continue south. Cross Juniper Canyon and follow a faint trail up the bushy ramp to the base of the wall at the very northeast corner of Rainbow Mountain. Route Description(s)The Routes are Listed Left to Right as you Face the Wall
Pachyderm- 580’- 5.9/
Laceration Spur- 1500’- 5.9/
Test Tube- 295’- 5.9/ Test Tube, in my opinion, offers one of the better 5.9 pitches at Red Rocks on incredible rock. The first pitch runs up an obvious corner to the left of the Spare Rib pillar. Just when you think the rating might be soft, it goes to a true crack pitch for several tight moves utilizing perfect hand jams. The second pitch, for the grade (5.7), is also classic in style. A true Epinephrine type chimney (think last chimney pitch without any pro) that requires an almost completely run out (one piece) lead switching which wall you are facing about mid way up. The last pitch can easily be combined with the second pitch. Test Tube is just another classic Urioste route put in by Jorge and Joanne in 1980. Dow
Spare Rib- 290’- 5.8/ Spare Rib was not as good a route as Test Tube, but you actually rap Spare Rib to descend Test Tube. Therefore it would be foolish in my opinion to not climb both routes once you are at the base of these side by side climbs. Spare Rib starts out in a stellar crack for the grade (5.8), then peters out into a sparsely bolted face climb for the last three pitches. I advise combining the first two pitches and the last two pitches which can easily be done with a 60m rope. Spare Rib is another typical Urioste route put in by Jorge and Joanne in 1980, however the bolts have since been replaced except for the very last one on the route. All the stations are bomber including a tree on top of route (2009). Dow
Tiger Crack- 160’- 5.12c/
Clod Tower- 1200’- 5.10c/
Hook Climb and Whimper- 350’- 5.10a/
Crimson Chrysalis- 960’- 5.8+/ I have climbed Crimson Chrysalis on three occasions to date (2008), all uneventful outings. I mention this because you can run into crowds on this climb as this is one of the most popular routes at Red Rocks. Planning an early mid-week visit during the winter months is the best way to have this gem to yourselves. It can be a cold climb by Red Rocks standards due to being north facing and receiving a considerable amount of westerly wind through the Gunsight Notch. I prefer to combine the last two pitches making it an 8 pitch route. Rope management skills are at a premium on the rappel once you re-enter the chimney sections. Dow
Cloud Tower- 800’- 5.11d/
Cloud Tower Direct Finish- 360’- 5.12d/These are all trad lines with an assortment of fixed pro here and there. They all will require an assortment of gear as spelled out in Jerry’s Handren’s “Red Rocks, A Climbers Guide”. All the routes require rappelling, thus I recommend double ropes for any of the climbs. Carry plenty of water if it is hot, as there is no water on approach. As before mentioned, due to where the wall is situated and prevailing westerly winds through Gunsight Notch, I recommend warm clothes during the winter and fall months.
External LinksRed Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, BLM
Red Rock Canyon Interpretive Association
DowClimbing.Com Red Rocks
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