Getting ThereDrive west up the Henson Creek Road directly from Lake City to the Capitol City town site area. The road forks before your reach Capitol City. A sign will indicate the Matterhorn Creek road, a right turn, which you take until you encounter a sign at another branch road for the Matterhorn Creek trailhead. Take this road to its end and park just below the gate. This secondary road has one challenging spot just before arriving at the trailhead. A branch road that goes by a camp site bypasses this rocky passage, but mud may also be a factor. This secondary road requires a good 4WD vehicle with substantial clearance, otherwise add about a half mile round trip to your hiking day and park on the Matterhorn Creek road.
Route DescriptionAs of 2004,Wetterhorn's standard route has been well developed by the Colorado Fourteener Initiative (CFI), although to mixed reviews (see the climber's log). The mountain can be climbed many ways once you are on the southeast ridge proper, and you'll find that many perceive the route options differently. Recent route changes and improvements channel climbers to the EAST SIDE of the ridge on solid but more exposed Class 3 terrain. While in the basin and assuming the ridge, please remain on the CFI trail to protect the fragile alpine tundra, as this is a heavy use area! Please help in keeping the lovely basin between Wetterhorn and Matterhorn Peaks as pristine as possible! Thank you!--AJ
 Stay right for standard route
APPROACH
From the gate at the parking area, hike up the Matterhorn Creek trail, once a jeep road. After passing through trees, you'll enter a clearing. At a sign, the trail switchbacks up a hill. At this point, you will notice a trail continuing north up a draw to a valley west (left) of Wetterhorn's southeast ridge buttress. This route can be used as an alternate route up or down the mountain. See the WEST BASIN VARIATION section below.
After passing through another patch of trees, the road angles northeast. This section, a former jeep road, climbs toward Matterhorn Peak to the right. As reported by SP member Climber 46, thanks to efforts by the Colorado Fourteeners Initiative in 2004, the trail to Wetterhorn Peak is now clearly marked and easy to follow. There are signs marking the closed former trail and the new Wetterhorn trail further up the road. Additional former climber paths have been marked "Closed for Revegetation."
ROUTE
The trail climbs northward through tundra, then winds through rocks and tundra atop a very old rock glacier to gain a spur ridge. The trail follows this crest to gain the southeast ridge of Wetterhorn at the gray dirt band.
Once on the ridge, follow the climber's trail past some minor outcrops and up through the orange band (Class 1). Beyond this point, you'll be on a worn path that is well marked, ranging in Class 2+ to Class 3 in difficulty.
Any number of variations are good options, but generally the higher you can manage to stay on the ridge, the better off you'll be. Cairns now mark the best options.
Following the marked route, wind your way through rocks, bypass a minor tower and then angle upward to the right across rock intermixed with loose scree slopes. Encountering a rock rib, climb broken rock into a cozy cove. A notch will present itself, which you climb down and through about 10 feet. From here, a tempting downclimb to another notch with a cairn nearby will beckon you. This gets you around the ridge, but puts you in a position to have to do considerable climbing through loose stuff.
That is fine if that is your desire, but the best option is to stay near the top of the ridge. New routing by the CFI may channel your party to the other side of the ridge through this section. Contour upward on a route you find desireable toward the top of another rock rib. You'll end up in an enclave of rock. Climb up this solid pitch where you can "zig-zag" up through a very fun class 3 stretch. A fall could bang you up, but there are plenty of handholds. You zig up to the right about 10 feet, then zag about four feet to the left, then climb straight up about 6 feet. From here, you are level with the base of the Shark's Tooth.
Follow the well worn path into the large cove area beneath the Shark's Tooth (also known as Shark's Fin and Prow). The final pitch is at hand. Some folks leave their packs in the cove area for their visit to the summit.
The final notch requires an initial direct climb of about 8 feet. You will top out on the famous slanted slab, which could be perilous of seriously wet. Good handholds on your right mitigate any serious danger while on this slab.
Descend this slab for about twenty feet to the starting ledge of the final pitch, which is a direct ascent on solid rock for about 100 feet. The rest of the route proceeds straight up. Some ledges are as wide as two feet, most are one foot or less. Near the top, the climbing is straight up. Holds are small but very solid.
Descending from the summit, go a bit north of where you gain the summit. A cairn may be there. Keep focused on what you're doing and inch your way down about 30 feet to a ledge to access the main gully you climbed up back to your left. A cairn marks this ledge and you may have spotted it during your ascent. This maneuver gets you past the steep pitch immediately below the summit for the downclimb, but keep your mind on what you're doing as there is much air here. You'll re-enter the final pitch gully about 1/4 of the way down.
Descend the same route.
     
Photo composite view of Wetterhorn Final Pitch
WEST BASIN VARIATION
Follow the scant trail up the valley on the west side of Wetterhorn's SE ridge. Once in the broad lower basin, angle right toward a domed buttress just left of Wetterhorn's southwest slopes. Climb to the right of the dome up a steep tundra and rubble gully to the next level of the basin, then angle hard right and ascend the steep slopes to the top of Wetterhorn's southeast ridge. Some fine scree may be encountered during your ascent as you approach the ridge top. Once on the ridge top, follow the standard route to the summit.
EAST FACE VARIATION
For a stiffer challenge, with Class 4 possibilities, the east side of the ridge offers many fun variations. At the base of the cliff band low on the southeast ridge, contour north on a grassy ledge to bypass the cliff, then climb on a course suitable to your taste toward the ridge crest through broken rock. Gain the ridge below Wetterhorn's summit tower. Judicious route finding will keep the difficulty at Class 3 or 4. Stay high as often as you can. Do not attempt the east side of the ridge if you do not have much climbing experience.
Special thanks to SP member Jcantu1044 for submitting his excellent route photos!
Essential GearWINTER: Full winter expedition gear would be required, if you are able to access the route described above.
SPRING: Crampons and ice axes are recommended for ideal snow and ice conditions. Skis or a board would also be a good idea for a speedy descent. Rope, rack and screws might be a good idea for the final pitch, and other sections, depending on snow and ice depth and condition.
SUMMER & FALL: Standard dayhike gear will do. Expect changing conditions and climb accordingly.
4WD is required to drive all the way to the trailhead. Images
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Uncompahgre Wilderness
