From the Segantini Hut, 2.371, follow the path in north-west direction by the marked path. On the crossroads you can choose between the direct ascent over the Monte Nero glacier or the longer one over Passo Quattro Cantoni.

Monte Nero and its glacier

1. Monte Nero Glacier has no crevasses and usually over its slope a good trail goes. So on the crossroads turn right, ascend the snow field and cross it diagonally. You keep left of the elegant Monte Nero (3078m) and over a short rocky part reach the lowest point on the SE ridge. From the ridge you must descend to the other side by metal steps and soon you're down on Vedretta di Nardis (glacier). Here the ascent #2 joins.

On Passo Quattro Cantoni

2. Continue left by a well marked path which brings you on Passo Quattro Cantoni. Here western horizons open. On the other side of the pass you must descend some 200 meters and cross towards right, where you soon reach the trail which comes by the Nardis Valley. Over Nardis snowfields ascend towards SE ridge of Presanella, where both variants join.

Over snowfields and easy rocky parts you continue up to a broad shoulder and by it to the foresummit of Presanella (also named Monte Bianco, 3370m). Here you reach the notch, where it seems that the easy route hopelessly ends. On the ridge are hard granite towers, on the right a few hundred meters of east wall. Towards left (west) a steep ravine leads. On top of it you can search the rock and behind it, you will also find a wedge for assurance.

Orobica bivouac from the crux notch

Descending first few meters of ravine is not hard, it is an easy rock climb UIAA I-II degree. Some 10 meters lower the route turns horizontally to the right and over two successive narrow ledges you reach a steep snow couloir. After climbing the couloir you are on the SE ridge of Presanella again, the terrain gets easier and soon you are at Bivacco Orobica (3382m). From this shelter an easy snow ridge leads towards the summit.

From the Segantini Hut 4-5 hours. You descend by the same route.

Essential Gear

Ice pick and crampons, for mountaineers not used of easy climbing and exposure a short rope is recommended.

Miscellaneous Info

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