Lesson learned here: free soloing when sweaty may not be conducive to longevity.

Pride (5.4) and Prejudice (5.5) are adjacent routes on an upstream-facing wall of the Dihedrals crag, just a few steps away from Beginner's Chimney, which is a reasonable and convenient descent route. Each climbs about 60 vertical feet and is essentially a straight line up the cliff. The section of cliff to the right of Pride and Prejudice is Mossy Wall, where there are several 5.4-5.8 options.

Pride climbs a prominent crack. Prejudice climbs flakes and a shallow dihedral.

Although most people toprope the routes even though they are suitable for trad climbing, I submit this page, as I have most of my Great Falls routes, in the interest of climbing them unroped, in which case these routes change from good beginners' climbs and fun but easy intermediate ones to fairly challenging ones, each for reasons to be detailed in the Route Description section.

Getting There

Just past the entrance station for Great Falls Park, make a right onto a road that descends to a parking area. Hike a minute or two toward the river until you reach the River Trail, where you turn right. Soon after passing a small pond (could be gone during very dry periods) on your right, you will reach an outcrop (on the left) overlooking the river. There is a plaque dedicated to Stephen Mather on one of the rocks here, and there is also an interpretive sign at this spot, which is atop the Dihedrals area.

Hike a few yards to your left (upstream) and look for the top of the Beginner's Chimney route (see photo in this section). The 5.0 descent is easy and puts you at the base of the Pride and Prejudice face.

For an easier but more roundabout descent, hike past the plaque area until the trail passes a sign indicating access to the Dihedrals climbing area. Descend the route, which is Class 3 if you take the easiest way. Turn left (upstream); about 30 yards of hiking and scrambling will place you at the start of the routes. The downside to this approach is that you can't use it during high-water periods, as part of it will be submerged.

It should take about 10 minutes to walk from the parking area to the top of Dihedrals, and then a few more minutes to descend.

Route Descriptions

Pride

Prejudice

Pride lower

Prejudice lower

Remember that this information pertains mainly to unroped climbing! If you're toproping these routes, there's little to say but to look at the route, check your gear, and start climbing.

Pride (5.4): Leaving the issues of exposure higher up aside, I think the route is at its technical hardest at the very beginning. Starting is hard, even on a rope, for two reasons-- the rock at the beginning is so steep and smooth that even in rock shoes, you will find yourself sliding down; and there is a small overhang to negotiate, not really that bad if one is starting from a good purchase, but hard in this case because one isn't. So if fun rather than following the route steadfastly is your primary objective, try getting on the crack that defines the middle and upper parts of the route by approaching from some ramps on the left side. The rock is still smooth and there are still some awkward stretches, but it's easier than the other way, especially if you aren't roped up.

Then there is a tricky spot, tricky without the confidence a rope provides, that is, around the middle (see the boxed area in the photo in this section). There, the wall closes in on the right, prohibiting useful arm movement and forcing one to lean left. The face on the left lacks really good holds, though, and it is a tough stretch, with plenty of serious risk since the exposure here is quite significant, for an unroped climber to reach the next good holds above. On two tries so far, I have not gotten past this point. I have a wife and two young children, and I decided this route wasn't worth risking my life for, so I downclimbed, which was tricky in itself. Next time, I will free solo with chalk, hoping that helps, or use a rope. I'm determined to do it unroped, though. Hopefully, this is not a case of "pride goeth before a fall."

The upper section looks easier, but viewed from above, it is still nearly vertical, so do use caution and remember that a 5.4 can kill just as a 5.12 can.

Prejudice (5.5): For the lower part of the route, climb the flakes and cracks on the face, keeping left of a small overhang that forms what is almost a very shallow cave. Free soloists will find themselves lying back and quite exposed here and may not go for it. In that case, climb up Beginner's Chimney to the overhang and traverse left into the middle section of Prejudice. This has its tricky spots and is not easy, but it is easier than the traditional start on the route. If you're out for fun and don't care too much if you follow exact routes, this is a good option.

The upper part of the route is not too hard for the most part when doing it unroped. The hardest move, a good stretch with serious exposure, is right below the top. The way up is obvious. There is a lot of exposure. The hard part I mentioned is where I learned my little lesson about the dangers of sweating while free soloing; I stuck my knee onto a spot and started pulling myself up, and then I slipped. Luckily, I felt the slip right away and had good handholds. Otherwise, I might have become a statistic. So maybe it would be better to free solo this route, and most others, I guess, when it isn't hot outside.

Essential Gear

Toproping gear-- good natural anchors above

Trad climbers-- I haven't climbed here with rope and related gear and couldn't responsibly tell you what you would need.

Red Tape, Camping, Links

Red tape: The park is open from 7 A.M. until dark every day except Christmas. There is an admission fee, good for three days, of $5 per vehicle or $3 per person entering on foot or by bicycle. Annual and interagency passes are also available (the latter costs $80).

Climbers are required to register (free). There is a registration box at the climbers’ parking area, and there is also one at the visitor center.

Drilling to place bolts is prohibited. If you use chalk, try to use colors that blend with the rock here.

The area is popular and can be quite crowded, especially on weekends spring through fall. Also, some of the people there, skilled as they may be, are less the sanctity-of-nature types and more the types who see mountains and crags as a climbing gym with cool views. Don’t be surprised to see a climber smoking a cigarette or yakking on a cell phone about his new BMW or his stock portfolio as he waits his turn. So if you prefer a little communion with your climbing, try going on a weekday or in winter (but be aware that mornings, when the Virginia side of the Great Falls area gets plenty of sun, are often in the 20’s F or lower in winter, not great for climbing).

The park is home to copperheads. It’s unlikely that they hang out in holds on the cliffs themselves, but be aware. The danger, though slim, is greatest near the clifftops, where there are more places for snakes to be.

Poison ivy is abundant. The humid period from late spring through early fall features gnats, mosquitoes, and other biting insects.

Camping: None

Link for More Information: Great Falls NPS site