Ellen Ritt climbs Mount Oberlin, Reynolds Mountain in the background, Glacier National Park
Digital photos in this report by Aaron Johnson (except where noted)

I was writing a chronological account of our trip to Glacier and I began to view the report from the reader’s perspective. I know I can be a long winded scribe so I work hard at editing myself. As I wrote and wrote and wrote, I knew readers would only get more bored and even more bored! So I changed the approach to get to the meat and potatoes real quick. I think well written trip reports must certainly be useful in some way, so therefore have some good information in them. A good story may have that, and might even make for a fun, humorous or even intense and exciting read. But if it’s not well written and useful to the reader, then it can be a real yawner!

This trip report presents the useful information up front without a long winded account of what we did. It’s still plenty long, but skip over the sections you’re not interested in and get out of this report what you need!

GLACIER’S WEATHER

Weather can make or break any trip. I knew weather was a big factor for any success in experiencing Glacier. I also knew the weather was sure to interfere given all the reading I had done over the years. I have to laugh when I see gorgeous pictures of Glacier, even in my own coffee table books. The weather is usually fantastic in those pictures. Of course, you either have to wonder if those photographers were incredibly lucky or simply spent tons of time there. More often, it has to be the latter, because Glacier is a weather magnet, and if there’s a good chance for bad weather anywhere in the region, Glacier’s going to have it. For every pretty picture you see of Glacier, there are ten more in trash cans or that have been deleted full or rain, fog and more rain and more fog.

Expect lots of moisture in all forms. Downpours, mist, light sprinkles, droplets plastering your face in bright sunshine, heavy fog and steady rain that lasts for hours. Expect lots of wind, particularly on Logan Pass and all points east. Expect the wind to be harsh, cold and intense in passes and at any altitude. It is entirely possible to have wind along a ridge or at a saddle and have no wind on the summit. And even though the wind may be blowing you over, the clouds will remain unmoved, content to obscure mountains from view and hide all those wonderful panoramas you have only seen in pictures.

Glacier reportedly has a summer. It lasts about two weeks in August! (I’m only kidding, but you get my point). If you’re lucky, you might get one or two of those bright and sunny days during the summer months during a week long period. If do you happen to get a long stretch of sunshine (without wind), your timing can only be called miraculous.

So what’s the deal? Why go someplace where the weather can conspire against you so easily? For the sake of experiencing the place and all that it is, of course. In the case of Glacier, you have to plan on playing by the weather’s rules and that means being prepared to deal with whatever it may throw at you, and making the most of it. If you have the clothes and gear, Glacier can be enjoyed in most conditions that aren’t considered severe. 65mph winds and sub-freezing temperatures would certainly confine you to the indoors, but a cool windy day at Saint Mary’s Lake (equaling a cold and blustery with clouds up higher) still may offer opportunities.

Weather is often different on either side of the park. The west may be wet and fogged in while the east is sunny and dry but windy. It’s always a great idea to get weather reports from the various areas of the Park, because it can indeed differ from one area to the next. As a general rule though, weather patterns persist in Glacier for longer periods than in other places, such as Colorado. A day of wind and rain means days on end of the same thing. On our trip, we were lucky and got one calm and sunny day out of the entire week, which we wisely used to climb Sinopah Mountain. Even so, we were able to climb Mount Oberlin, Pollock Mountain, Bishop’s Cap and Divide Peak, do a number of short hikes and one long hike to Dawson Pass. In between, we visited ranger stations, visitor centers, lodges and other attractions.

Others would say we were lucky to get as much done as we did given the stubborn weather pattern, and to a degree, I would agree. But we went into this trip prepared and had plenty of flexibility built in because we expected bad weather. We of course got more bad weather than we had actually anticipated, but it worked out well anyway because we did indeed expect it and were prepared for it. We always had a number of options available and continually considered them.

Upon your arrival, be sure to get the weather report and learn all you can about the park. Learn about the climbs and hikes you want to do, then consider alternatives such as lower altitude activities; these are things you should do anyway to really experience the park: Visit the visitor centers for each area; visit the lodges; take a boat ride; do several short low altitude hikes; research the restaurants; attend a ranger program or hike; relax by a stream or lake; watch the birds and other critters. If you really get to thinking, there is a ton of activities that Glacier offers that work well in the event of bad weather.

Even in okay weather, your climb might still be possible. Consider your route and if you’ll be sheltered by the mountains from the predominant west wind. If it’s not too cold, even with a chance of rain, proceed with your hike IF you have the clothing and gear to execute it safely. If you find deplorable conditions up high, you can simply turn around and go do something else. The Park has a great hand out that lists all of the trailed routes, including length and gain. This is a helpful tool in planning your activities or considering alternatives.

With some foresight and research, the notorious Glacier weather need not rain on your parade. Go to Glacier with this understanding, and you will enjoy Glacier as it is, and your trip will be unforgettable.

CLIMBING IN GLACIER

Needless to say, climbing in Glacier is quite different from anywhere else you may have been. I realized this from the start and assumed the role in my mind as a beginning climber. I was happy to set my vast experience and self confidence aside to be led by Vern, Fred and Moni through Glacier as a climber who wasn’t clueless, but certainly someone who wasn’t a hot shot either. I had prepared myself with lots of reading about climbing in the park and conversing with my SP friends and guides. So unlike clueless tourists, Ellen and I were somewhat prepared for what to expect.

Being knowledgeable about Glacier’s climbing and doing it though, are two different things. We were lucky to have Vern lead us on an introduction hike. We had hoped to utilize Mount Gould in this capacity, but the weather (surprise, surprise) had different ideas. So we climbed Mount Oberlin instead, probably the easiest and most climbed mountain in the Park. This was a great way to experience Glacier climbing for the first time. If you’re learning about Glacier on your own, this mountain is a good place to start, but if at all possible, go with someone who has been to Glacier before and rely on their experience and knowledge. Doing this builds a good foundation from which you can expand your experience of Glacier into a positive one.

Right photo by Ellen Ritt

Glacier rock is certainly crumbling and loose, more so than most places I’ve been. Glacier scree and talus is quite different from that found in Colorado. Colorado talus, when walked upon, sounds like glass and has a blocky shape to it. Glacier talus is finer, doesn’t have that glassy ring and is actually a bit easier to walk on, as most of it lies flat like wafers.

Glacier scree compares to Colorado’s and actually benefits climbers during descents. In Colorado, trundling across scree slopes is frowned upon because it supposedly scars the mountain, and of course there are examples where that is certainly the case. In Glacier, scree is everywhere. It is what is left after centuries of grinding under glaciers. Put simply, Glacier’s finely ground rock equals a heavenly charge down a slope in a speedy, carefree descent. Of course, going up the stuff can be a chore, and in some places, a devil-may-care charge down the slope is not advised due to potential rockfall on other climbers below. But it was nice to see the National Park practically endorse the utilization of scree, coming from a state that thinks the opposite.

The Park would rather you trample the scree than the tundra, which I whole heartedly agree with. Where ever you can, you are encouraged to do this, and thus use it to your advantage on descents as well. My take is the mountain is already “scarred,” if you insist on looking at scree that way. It's just part of the mountain's character. No human effort in any capacity can change that. So use it accordingly. The mountain certainly doesn’t care!

Scree on Glacier’s ledges is just a given, and that’s a different story altogether. Obviously, carelessly sailing up or down Glacier’s ledges is not a wise idea. With all of that debris present, a misstep or slip is likely if you’re flailing about on the rock. Reckless climbing will obviously lead to kicking debris off the ledges, perhaps on others below. Rocks will fall much far in Glacier, too. Slopes are very steep, practically vertical. Upset scree can easily dislodge larger rocks in glacier. Unlike gliding over solid granite in Rocky Mountain National Park, deliberate care mixed with steady movement is required to climb safely in Glacier. Always be aware of where your feet and hands are, and test all holds.

Photo by Fred Spicker

Glacier’s solid rock is indeed solid and pleasantly flat most of the time, thanks to the layered sedimentary rock. This stuff is a joy to climb on and can vary wildly in texture and color from one cliff band to the text. Even so, holds should be tested, and I should say again, holds should be tested! Guard against the tendency to pull out on a hold, for it could come right out of the rock face. Using stemming practices in corners, cracks and chimneys, and whenever possible, use downward force on holds, and with caution, sideways force.

Many of Glacier’s official routes as well as your own route will involve considerable exposure. A slip on a Class 3 climb in Colorado could bang you up pretty good. A slip on a Class 3 climb in Glacier could end your life, as much Class 3 climbing in Glacier is in highly exposed areas. Be sure you are experienced with exposure and are comfortable with your abilities before charging in to an exposed Class 3 or higher climb.

Glacier is full of great technical routes. For your convenience, I have included the Glacier Park rating system, which should be carefully considered as the exclusive rating system for the Park due to the vastly inherent differences in Glacier’s rock when compared to other parts of the world, including your part!

GMS RATING SYSTEM

Always register your climb or hike at the nearest ranger station. If something should happen and you do not return, the Park staff will know where to look for you!

WHAT WE DID (Chronological account)

FRIDAY: Flew to Missoula, late flight.

SATURDAY: Drove to Columbia Falls, settled in, went for a ride in the park, stopping at Apgar and Logan Pass. Weather was cold, cloudy, wet and windy.

SUNDAY: Climbed Mount Oberlin, hiked to Avalanche Lake, many stops along the road, met Fred and Moni for dinner. Weather was cold, cloudy and windy.

MONDAY: Climbed Sinopah Mountain. Gorgeous day!

TUESDAY: Hoped to climb Reynolds Mountain. I had some illness issues and the weather looked uncertain. I remained at Logan Pass while the group climbed Pollock and Bishiop’s Cap. A nice morning segued to two thunderstorms, which were followed by cold and windy weather.

WEDNESDAY: Fred and Moni went home due to a problematic forecast. The wind was just HOWLING and it was nippy at Saint Mary, and downright cold and wet closer to the mountains, with spots of snow. We visited the Many Glacier Lodge and ranger station, took a drive on the Chief Mountain International Highway (nice) and attended a ranger program at Saint Mary.

THURSDAY: Climbed Divide Peak in cold, breezy conditions and relocated to East Glacier, visiting the Two Medicine Lodge. Deeper in the park, it was cold, windy and cloudy with rain and snow.

FRIDAY: Hiked to Dawson Pass, encountering 50+MPH winds and 40 degree temps, thus abandoning our attempt on Flinsch Peak. Took the boat back across Two Medicine Lake. Nice!

SATURDAY: Dim hopes of a climb of any sort. Lots of wind on the east side, cold and wet on Logan Pass. Clouds moved in quickly, enveloping the area in a thick, soupy fog. Visited Lake MacDonald Lodge and had a wonderful huckleberry ice cream cone in Hungry Horse. Drove back to Missoula, at least being able to see the impressive Mission Mountains, which were obscured by clouds earlier in the vacation.

SUNDAY: Took a driving tour of the Bitteroot Valley and saw the Bitteroot Mountains (nice!) before taking an afternoon flight home.

RECOMMENDED SPOTS TO VISIT FOR SURE (That aren’t hiking or climbing routes)

Apgar Visitor Center and the town of Apgar; Lake MacDonald Lodge, Logan Pass Visitor Center, most of the pull-outs along the Going to the Sun Road; Saint Mary Visitor Center, town of Saint Mary, Two Medicine Lodge (spectacular), town of East Glacier, the highways tat encompass the park, the Chief Mountain International Highway (great views of amazing Chief Mountain all the way to the Canadian border); Many Glacier Lodge (spectacular); any ranger programs; any boat ride (we used the Sinopah boat on our return from Dawson Pass and really enjoyed it).

GOOD LODGING LOCATIONS

(Prices and quality run the gamut here. These places are listed because they’re very close to or in the Park): Hungry Horse; Columbia Falls; Apgar; Lake MacDonald Lodge; Saint Mary; East Glacier; Two Medicine Lodge (East Glacier); Many Glacier Lodge. For Waterton, the Prince of Wales lodge looks attractive but pricey.


FOOD

There’s plenty of awesome eating establishments everywhere you go around Glacier. I can’t remember the names of many of these places, but the really memorable ones I do remember. Johnson’s Restaurant in Saint Mary was outstanding for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The steakhouse restaurant in Two Medicine Lodge (East Glacier) was excellent, as well as the Village Diner in East Glacier. We ate at good Mexican and Italian restaurants in nearby Whitefish, and there was a good restaurant in Apgar.

In this region, everything is huckleberries. There’s huckleberry pie, huckleberry beer, huckleberry salad dressing, huckleberry ice cream, huckleberry syrup, huckleberry muffins (yum), huckleberry cookies. All of these are delectable and I certainly miss them. Just as well, ‘cause I’d probably be fat! The bears have been a problem this year because the Park’s huckleberry crop failed, so they’ve taken to raiding trash looking for food. I don’t blame them. Life without huckleberries (once you’ve had them) would be really tough! I’d be pissed, too!

Even so, on our way to the boat ride on Two Medicine Lake, we saw scads of tourists picking lots of huckleberries. I guess they were lucky a bear was not present. It may have considered this an invasion of his food supply. I suppose I can’t blame the tourists, either. Huckleberries are good picked right off the bush. Yum! Good eatin’!

TRANSPORTATION

Having your own vehicle obviously affords you the most freedom. The tour companies in Glacier undoubtedly do a booming business, so people obviously like what they have to offer. The boat rides are popular as well. Check with the Park concerning current schedules. The boats and tourist companies are seasonal. Only one highway goes through the Park, otherwise it’s either a horseback ride or your feet, baby!

ANIMALS

If you like watching animals, Glacier is the place to do it. I have never seen a bear in the wild…until I went to Glacier. What a thrill! I saw more wildlife on this one week in Glacier than I have in years living in Colorado. It really goes to show you how the pressures of human civilization can adversely affect wildlife habitat. Glacier is a sanctuary for animals, and so of course, your chances of seeing them are actually pretty good. Marmots, mountain goats and sheep will actually be commonly viewed. If you’re lucky, you’ll see a bear at a safe distance. Avoid the temptation to get closer to any animal.

There’s plenty of information about what to do in the event of a bear encounter, and the Park will shower you with material upon your arrival, so I won’t get into that here. We did discuss bear bells and pepper spray during our trip, though. Bear bells are useless. People wearing them weren’t heard until they came around a bend and we were practically on them. Bears reportedly don’t hear any better than we do, so they will be surprised if you suddenly happen upon them no matter what you’re wearing.

There is increasing evidence that pepper spray is useless as well, although you shouldn’t be discouraged from carrying it. Just have an understanding that some bears may not find it annoying at all and be completely unphased by it. There is also increasing evidence (and the Park’s video on the subject illustrates this) that shouting with authority and making yourself look bigger than you are, with a large stick if possible, may work just as convincingly. The thinking is you are communicating to the bear that a confrontation is not desired (do not charge or act aggressive), but that you are also NOT easy prey and you will not go down easily. Should a bear charge, you should drop to the ground face down and cover your head with your arms in the hope you communicate to the bear that you are not a threat or challenging it.

Bears have a keen sense of smell, though. They use it to avoid undesirable encounters, and they use it to seek out what they do desire. Keep foods sealed up when hiking, don’t EVER leave your backpack unattended, tie your food up in a tree when camping, and prepare your food away from your tent. The Park has a great introduction video you should make a point of viewing upon your arrival. It’s probably the best video on bear encounters I have ever seen.

The chances of actually having a confrontational encounter with a bear in Glacier are pretty slim. In all of his years of climbing in Glacier, Fred has had one bear encounter. But it doesn’t hurt to be informed on the matter. Upon your arrival at the Park, make it a point to watch the video and discuss any questions you have with a ranger. The rangers also keep a tally of bear sightings, and certain areas of the Park may be closed due to problem bears or multiple sightings. Other sightings are also tracked for mountain lion and moose. It’s always a great idea to talk to a ranger before setting out on your hike or climb (actually you should register your hike or climb before proceeding) to know what the current situation is regarding bears and the area you intend to visit.

MEETING GREAT FRIENDS THROUGH SP & HOW THE TRIP HAPPENED (For anyone who may be interested)

Glacier National Park had left a huge impression on me. I was all of seven years old when I stepped out of the station wagon on our “Grizwald Family Vacation” of the American west and set foot onto Logan Pass. I remember brief walks on a number of trails during our whirlwind visit to the Park, always in a hurry to get on to the next attraction in our three week itinerary. Like Arches National Park, I wanted to get out and explore as little boys love to do. But that wasn’t to be. I remember being knocked over by what I saw and wishing one day that I could return.

Through the years, I looked at books and read about Glacier and always threatened to take time out to return to that enchanted national park. Then about five years ago, my long time climbing partner, Vern, moved to Missoula, Montana. A transfer afforded him the rare opportunity to escape the madness of big city life and return to an area not far from where he grew up. Just a couple hours from Glacier as well as some other dynamite mountain ranges, Vern had finally found his home, even though I had lost a regular climbing partner.

I joined SP on June 19, 2002, exactly one year after the web site went on line. During the next two years, I met some wonderful people through SP. Two of these great people were Fred and Moni Spicker. Fred was an early contact and we hit it off right away. I figured in a number of years we would get together, but I had no idea it would be so soon. He probably thought the same.

Photo by Vernon Garner

Using SP as the connection point, I got Fred and Moni together with Vern. They climbed Mount Henkel and Crowfeet Mountain in Glacier together and a great friendship was born. The startling results of that climb are evident here on SP. When I announced to Vern that Ellen and I were planning on coming to Glacier for a week, it was a given that Fred and Moni should join us. Their experience and knowledge of the Park would be a huge advantage and assure we made the most of our time while we were there. We’d likely see the Park in ways the tourist wouldn’t even dream of. This is of course what I wanted out of a trip to Glacier. I wanted to experience the Park in the best possible way, and with these wonderful people, it was a sure bet. I was thrilled when Fred assured me that they would attend.

Vern’s relocation gave me a good excuse to go back to Glacier National Park and give it the due time is deserved. Over the course of 2004, we made our plans through emails. My research indicated, without much surprise, that the Park was just too big to see the way I wanted to see it. Plus there was Waterton Lakes to the north, Glacier’s Canadian counterpart. Rather than spread ourselves too thin, I decided to focus on the southern half of the Park, making sure to do some predictable stops at the lodges and visitor centers to learn about the Park and experience those aspects as well as hike and climb. Totally clueless on what mountains would be appropriate for us Colorado “rookies,” I relied on Fred and Vern for climbing goal ideas.

Prior to the trip, Fred sent a picture of a mountain he proposed to climb, with distance and elevation figures. Mount Sinopah was one awesome looking mountain. Even though Fred and Moni have been to Glacier a lot, the climb was a first ascent for all of us. Ellen and I were then pretty excited. After seeing Fred’s photos on his page, Reynolds Mountain, always a cool looking peak, was a definite goal. Fred and Moni had climbed it ten years ago and were kind enough to guide us up it again (sadly the weather and a brief illness that befell me cancelled this climb out). Otherwise, we were open for anything.

Our Glacier trip was a great success despite the grumpy weather. Our thanks to Vern, Moni and Fred for making it so! It was a fun and informative learning experience we’ll never forget, and we look forward to going back. Glacier National Park really is one of our Nation’s finest treasures!

Colorado Rookies in Glacier National Park--The Sequel!

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