Mountaineer's route. Couldn't get started up the final class 4 chimney 3 weeks prior in hiking boots. Lesson learned- no more class 4 without rock shoes.
The rock at the base of the chimney is getting a little smoothed out from so much traffic. Once on the 1st step, it becomes much easier, closer to class 3. The narrow slot adjacent to the chimney makes for an easy step off the summit blocks for the downclimb. Holds are all there, no need for protection.
Beautiful peak that I got to climb before the crowds.
CameronGround - Nov 2, 2015 1:50 am Date Climbed: Nov 1, 2015
Mountaineers route
Contemplated the SE buttress, but wasn't quite feeling it so just took the descent trail up, didn't realize it goes within one or two hundred feet of the summit. The 15 foot summit crack was cool, but other than that this was 98% hiking and 2% climbing. Kinda wish I'd at least tried the butt, guess I'll have to wait until next year with Tioga Pass likely closed for the winter.
jdmorehouse - Sep 1, 2015 5:32 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2015
Traffic Jam
A small party, we took the 4th class route up. We had to wait in the cold wind for nearly an hour for a window of time to open for us to summit, since party after party were coming up the class 5 sections. A hugely popular peak.
CptAmerica - Oct 21, 2014 4:58 pm Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2014
Mountaineers route
Great weather. lots of people. very airy summit. ropes would have probably been useful for the last 10-15 feet. but fun nonetheless
Vertigo soul - Oct 14, 2014 1:22 pm Date Climbed: Oct 13, 2014
Awesome Fall day on the SE Butt
Did the original route - fun and has a little of everything. I got to lead the $ chimney pitch. For a Monday in mid-Oct it was somewhat busy, but that's to be expected. Awesome climb and amazing views from a real airy summit block. Good day!
vanman798 - Oct 12, 2014 5:17 pm Date Climbed: Oct 7, 2014
Oct 7 2014
With Danny Lay via the SE buttress, then over to North Face of
Eichorn's Pinnacle
JRaphaelson - Aug 14, 2014 1:17 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2014
5.7 Variation
What an amazing climb. The 5.7 variation was fun and sketchy.
bedellympian - Jun 27, 2014 7:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2014
SE Butt solo
Last leg of the Tenaya-Matthes-Cathedral Linkup. An outstanding route and very fun, definitely my favorite out of those three. It did help starting the climb after 5pm as there was no one else on route. I was on the summit by 6pm and back at the car (Tenaya Lake) by 8pm.
TheNobleSunfish - May 16, 2014 2:57 pm Date Climbed: May 14, 2014
Great!
SE Buttress - so fun!
Wallylongridge - Dec 11, 2013 6:53 pm Date Climbed: Sep 17, 1990
Class 4 route
Climbing in T.M. is always sweet!
Alex Wood - Nov 13, 2013 5:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2013
Amazing summit
Probably one of the coolest summits that I have had the chance to stand on. Amazing views in an amazing location. The SE Buttress had about 50 people on it the day we climbed it!
caysedave - Nov 4, 2013 3:25 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
To The Left
Three parties waiting for Chimney so we went up
left side. Wind whipping around corner made it
exciting! Great pro.
Donno - Aug 13, 2013 12:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2003
SE Buttress
W/ Gene. Free soloers passing us left & right.
chicagosky - Aug 5, 2013 10:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2013
First outdoor rock climb
What a way to get introduced to outdoor rock climbing - this iconic peak and its East Buttress route were the victim of my determination on a fine July afternoon. Awesome climb and hopefully the first of many!!
JGHarrison - Aug 5, 2013 8:44 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2013
fun but too many people
do in the evening or early morning when the wall is not filled with people that are slow..
Fun route. We found the Class 3 no problem at all, but 2 of 3 in our group (including me) used a rope on the short 10-ft crack on the summit block. Great views once you get above the trees.
jamesmc2 - May 29, 2013 2:13 am Date Climbed: May 27, 2013
Spring solo
Climbed on a windy spring day via my own variation of the Mountaineer's Route. Still some steep frozen snow on the route which could be avoided by staying low toward Eichorn and then high on the ridge to the summit. Quite exposed 4th class with mostly good holds.
Luke Swanson - Dec 6, 2012 6:38 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2012
BobD3 - Jul 14, 2016 8:48 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2016
wonderful peak, Muir was rightMountaineer's route. Couldn't get started up the final class 4 chimney 3 weeks prior in hiking boots. Lesson learned- no more class 4 without rock shoes.
The rock at the base of the chimney is getting a little smoothed out from so much traffic. Once on the 1st step, it becomes much easier, closer to class 3. The narrow slot adjacent to the chimney makes for an easy step off the summit blocks for the downclimb. Holds are all there, no need for protection.
fatdad - Apr 10, 2016 12:04 am
SE Buttress and Mountaineer's RouteBeautiful peak that I got to climb before the crowds.
CameronGround - Nov 2, 2015 1:50 am Date Climbed: Nov 1, 2015
Mountaineers routeContemplated the SE buttress, but wasn't quite feeling it so just took the descent trail up, didn't realize it goes within one or two hundred feet of the summit. The 15 foot summit crack was cool, but other than that this was 98% hiking and 2% climbing. Kinda wish I'd at least tried the butt, guess I'll have to wait until next year with Tioga Pass likely closed for the winter.
jdmorehouse - Sep 1, 2015 5:32 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2015
Traffic JamA small party, we took the 4th class route up. We had to wait in the cold wind for nearly an hour for a window of time to open for us to summit, since party after party were coming up the class 5 sections. A hugely popular peak.
CptAmerica - Oct 21, 2014 4:58 pm Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2014
Mountaineers routeGreat weather. lots of people. very airy summit. ropes would have probably been useful for the last 10-15 feet. but fun nonetheless
Vertigo soul - Oct 14, 2014 1:22 pm Date Climbed: Oct 13, 2014
Awesome Fall day on the SE ButtDid the original route - fun and has a little of everything. I got to lead the $ chimney pitch. For a Monday in mid-Oct it was somewhat busy, but that's to be expected. Awesome climb and amazing views from a real airy summit block. Good day!
vanman798 - Oct 12, 2014 5:17 pm Date Climbed: Oct 7, 2014
Oct 7 2014With Danny Lay via the SE buttress, then over to North Face of
Eichorn's Pinnacle
JRaphaelson - Aug 14, 2014 1:17 am Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2014
5.7 VariationWhat an amazing climb. The 5.7 variation was fun and sketchy.
bedellympian - Jun 27, 2014 7:47 pm Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2014
SE Butt soloLast leg of the Tenaya-Matthes-Cathedral Linkup. An outstanding route and very fun, definitely my favorite out of those three. It did help starting the climb after 5pm as there was no one else on route. I was on the summit by 6pm and back at the car (Tenaya Lake) by 8pm.
TheNobleSunfish - May 16, 2014 2:57 pm Date Climbed: May 14, 2014
Great!SE Buttress - so fun!
Wallylongridge - Dec 11, 2013 6:53 pm Date Climbed: Sep 17, 1990
Class 4 routeClimbing in T.M. is always sweet!
Alex Wood - Nov 13, 2013 5:32 pm Date Climbed: Sep 28, 2013
Amazing summitProbably one of the coolest summits that I have had the chance to stand on. Amazing views in an amazing location. The SE Buttress had about 50 people on it the day we climbed it!
caysedave - Nov 4, 2013 3:25 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
To The LeftThree parties waiting for Chimney so we went up
left side. Wind whipping around corner made it
exciting! Great pro.
Donno - Aug 13, 2013 12:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2003
SE ButtressW/ Gene. Free soloers passing us left & right.
chicagosky - Aug 5, 2013 10:03 pm Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2013
First outdoor rock climbWhat a way to get introduced to outdoor rock climbing - this iconic peak and its East Buttress route were the victim of my determination on a fine July afternoon. Awesome climb and hopefully the first of many!!
JGHarrison - Aug 5, 2013 8:44 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2013
fun but too many peopledo in the evening or early morning when the wall is not filled with people that are slow..
strudolyubov - Jul 29, 2013 5:46 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2013
Southeast ButtressClimbed Cathedral Peak via Southeast Buttress route with Ryan. Led all pitches. Great rock, gorgeous views, - classic!
cab - Jul 8, 2013 2:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013
Mountaineers RouteFun route. We found the Class 3 no problem at all, but 2 of 3 in our group (including me) used a rope on the short 10-ft crack on the summit block. Great views once you get above the trees.
jamesmc2 - May 29, 2013 2:13 am Date Climbed: May 27, 2013
Spring soloClimbed on a windy spring day via my own variation of the Mountaineer's Route. Still some steep frozen snow on the route which could be avoided by staying low toward Eichorn and then high on the ridge to the summit. Quite exposed 4th class with mostly good holds.
Luke Swanson - Dec 6, 2012 6:38 pm Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2012
SE ButtressFun climb. Great weather.