Did it with Chris Wenker the day before Lizard Head as a warm-up, but our feet got cold. We did not expect that much snow on the route, so had only sneakers, which obviously got completely wet.
We descended down to Kilpacker - nice south and sunny side.
benners - Aug 30, 2011 10:30 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2006
Harrowing
Climbed this route solo with a thin snow layer covering the route. Fun stuff.
C Wenker - Sep 27, 2010 10:39 am Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2010
Day trip from NLTH
Climbed North Slopes 2 days after first snow of the season. Abandoned plan for the traverse, instead descended some 4th class, ad hoc, uncairned variation of the South Slopes into Kilpacker.
Kiefer - Apr 11, 2010 11:49 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2008
Dangerous Slope
Ascended North Couloir on questionable snow (got soft really quick), summited and descended the North Face. I'll never ascend/descend the North Face again. Too dangerous. Partner almost had his leg severed in half by a dislodged boulder.
Intense Mountain.
byates - Aug 12, 2009 2:05 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2008
Easy snow
excellent cramponing snow, but the ridge was rotting ice I stuck to the rock, mark stayed on the snow, made it at the same time.
People have died in the gulley, I found the scrambling on the "Central Rib" (right of the main gulley) to be about Class 2+. My brother Dirk and I did this in about 45 minutes from below the basin, one of our fastest summit pushes to be sure! I highly recommend this route unless you have time for the West Ridge which looks nice.
Liba Kopeckova - Jul 29, 2013 12:27 pm
snow climbDid it with Chris Wenker the day before Lizard Head as a warm-up, but our feet got cold. We did not expect that much snow on the route, so had only sneakers, which obviously got completely wet.
We descended down to Kilpacker - nice south and sunny side.
benners - Aug 30, 2011 10:30 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2006
HarrowingClimbed this route solo with a thin snow layer covering the route. Fun stuff.
C Wenker - Sep 27, 2010 10:39 am Date Climbed: Sep 25, 2010
Day trip from NLTHClimbed North Slopes 2 days after first snow of the season. Abandoned plan for the traverse, instead descended some 4th class, ad hoc, uncairned variation of the South Slopes into Kilpacker.
Kiefer - Apr 11, 2010 11:49 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2008
Dangerous SlopeAscended North Couloir on questionable snow (got soft really quick), summited and descended the North Face. I'll never ascend/descend the North Face again. Too dangerous. Partner almost had his leg severed in half by a dislodged boulder.
Intense Mountain.
byates - Aug 12, 2009 2:05 pm Date Climbed: May 31, 2008
Easy snowexcellent cramponing snow, but the ridge was rotting ice I stuck to the rock, mark stayed on the snow, made it at the same time.
seth@LOKI - May 30, 2007 8:40 pm
take the Central RibPeople have died in the gulley, I found the scrambling on the "Central Rib" (right of the main gulley) to be about Class 2+. My brother Dirk and I did this in about 45 minutes from below the basin, one of our fastest summit pushes to be sure! I highly recommend this route unless you have time for the West Ridge which looks nice.