Dow Williams - Jul 18, 2021 9:25 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2021
Aviary Ort Overhangs
With Ben from Albuquerque. I led all the pitches. The first pitch wide slot is not hard for the grade as MP.com might lead you to believe. You really only do need a #4 to protect it vs a #5 or #6. The second pitch offers a stout and exposed crux with suspect pro. This route would go so much better if you skip the first fixed anchor and set up a gear anchor at the start of the traverse. The traverse is no big deal, with one micro piece under the roof vs the piton at your feet. But at the right end, is where you have to make the crux move at the grade with no pro. If you fall, there could be consequences. If the lower pin could be chopped and a new one inserted at this juncture, the route would be considerably safer. The rope drag on pitch 2 will be bad no matter if you do not extend the first pitch. The 3rd pitch is worth doing despite how chossy it appears.
Dow Williams - Jul 18, 2021 9:25 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2021
Aviary Ort OverhangsWith Ben from Albuquerque. I led all the pitches. The first pitch wide slot is not hard for the grade as MP.com might lead you to believe. You really only do need a #4 to protect it vs a #5 or #6. The second pitch offers a stout and exposed crux with suspect pro. This route would go so much better if you skip the first fixed anchor and set up a gear anchor at the start of the traverse. The traverse is no big deal, with one micro piece under the roof vs the piton at your feet. But at the right end, is where you have to make the crux move at the grade with no pro. If you fall, there could be consequences. If the lower pin could be chopped and a new one inserted at this juncture, the route would be considerably safer. The rope drag on pitch 2 will be bad no matter if you do not extend the first pitch. The 3rd pitch is worth doing despite how chossy it appears.