Bird Hunter Buttress, 5.9, 12 Pitches Climber's Log

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fossana

fossana - Apr 26, 2010 11:06 am Date Climbed: Apr 25, 2010

link-up  Sucess!

Last 4 pitches as a link-up to Paiute Pillar with Dow. Definitely a higher quality route than Paiute Pillar.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Apr 14, 2010 10:32 am Date Climbed: Apr 3, 2010

Bird Hunter Buttress  Sucess!

Good route with great partner, Michael D. from NY. Leisurely way up Rainbow really. You can combine the first three pitches with a 70m and a bit of easy simul climbing to a hidden anchor on the right wall of the chimney/off width. The 5th and 6th pitches were the only spicy ones really. Face climbing on moss covered weak edges. Well bolted where need be though. The 9th pitch was fantastic and the old bolts just need to be removed, no need for any bolts on this corner, tons of pro. The most enjoyable pitch in my opinion was the 10th-11th combo. Surprised more is not made of this pitch in the beta. Classic chimney, sweep out onto face. Loving that squeeze move. We did this whole route in six pitches. I ran the rope from the top of the 11th out left to the rap anchor on Brown Recluse. 10 raps with a 70m Very last (short) one is hidden, climbers left. Damn hard to find these raps in the dark if that would be your situation. Most anchors same color as the rock. We took eleven hrs car to car. 1.5 for the approach.

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