Blood Brother, 5.11-, 5 Pitches Climber's Log

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Jan 12, 2018 12:09 pm Date Climbed: Jan 30, 2017

Blood Brother  Sucess!

With Danny U. Convulted beta out there, thus we just followed the topo on toofast topos. Easy to follow the route mostly straight up really. The crux move is more 5.10 than 5.11- as the new guide suggests. They are inflating the grading of most routes in those new (2017) guides. After that move across the lone bolt on the route (crux slab), the rest of the pitch is more 5.9 than 5.10, thus an easy 5.10 pitch by Cochise standards. This 4th pitch (tall flake) is as good as any trad pitch in Cochise. The 2nd pitch is pretty good too, but most of the rest is just average. Great position high on the east face, easy descent, good day out. Easy to combine with a quick romp up Moby Dick as you pass by it on the descent. We did it in two simul pitches in maybe an hour or so to the top, then repeat same rap.

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