Dow Williams - Sep 1, 2015 6:55 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2015
Crying Time Again
With Frank. I led all the pitches. Combining 2-3 and 5-6 for 4 pitches total is definitely the way to go, this is really a 4 pitch route. I chose the FA start, the 5.7 run out. There is a slab move on that up high where you rely on one high step move (no hands) on gritty rock that would have consequences if you missed. I think guiding and such, one should definitly take the 5.8 bolted variation out right Only gear I really used was for the belay at the top of P3, anything works there, I only took finger gear and founds something. Well bolted after the first pitch really. Not overly impressed with it or the 5.10b to the right. I like Truck and Drive better than both. But it is worth doing for sure, 3 out of 5 stars. Somebody in the parking lot was offering that it is set up to rap with a 70m. It is not set up to rap from the top and walking off (on the south face) is faster anyway.
CORRECTION: My 2nd studied the topo once back home and said I went too far left and there were suppose to be bolts on the 5.7R. He is correct, my eyesight is not so great and the Supertopo topos are so damn small...he did this because he felt he followed a 5.10 slab move or two and could not believe I led that section with no pro. So...I was too far left on the first pitch. I could see the bolts to the right, but thought that was the 5.8 when in reality, that was the 5.7R. Just don't come in from the left, if anything start right below the belay ledge.
This is one of my favorite climbs in Tuolumne, and I've done it a good 3 or 4 times. With the exception of the last pitch (which everyone avoids anyways by traversing off R), pretty reasonably protected for the Meadows.
Edit: let me add that the last bolted .10a pitch was added after I last climbed this. Must go and do since I always hated traversing off.
ylamurto - Aug 13, 2009 10:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009
I understand the name now
The book said 5.9 PG so didn't expect the runouts. Other climbers said that this is typical Tuolumne.
holy crap! Climbed with Michal, lead P1,3 and 5. It took us about 2 hrs, got down with enough time to head to Mobil. Did On the Lamb earlier in the day.
Dow Williams - Sep 1, 2015 6:55 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2015
Crying Time AgainWith Frank. I led all the pitches. Combining 2-3 and 5-6 for 4 pitches total is definitely the way to go, this is really a 4 pitch route. I chose the FA start, the 5.7 run out. There is a slab move on that up high where you rely on one high step move (no hands) on gritty rock that would have consequences if you missed. I think guiding and such, one should definitly take the 5.8 bolted variation out right Only gear I really used was for the belay at the top of P3, anything works there, I only took finger gear and founds something. Well bolted after the first pitch really. Not overly impressed with it or the 5.10b to the right. I like Truck and Drive better than both. But it is worth doing for sure, 3 out of 5 stars. Somebody in the parking lot was offering that it is set up to rap with a 70m. It is not set up to rap from the top and walking off (on the south face) is faster anyway.
CORRECTION: My 2nd studied the topo once back home and said I went too far left and there were suppose to be bolts on the 5.7R. He is correct, my eyesight is not so great and the Supertopo topos are so damn small...he did this because he felt he followed a 5.10 slab move or two and could not believe I led that section with no pro. So...I was too far left on the first pitch. I could see the bolts to the right, but thought that was the 5.8 when in reality, that was the 5.7R. Just don't come in from the left, if anything start right below the belay ledge.
fatdad - Oct 22, 2009 3:12 pm
Middle of the road 5.9This is one of my favorite climbs in Tuolumne, and I've done it a good 3 or 4 times. With the exception of the last pitch (which everyone avoids anyways by traversing off R), pretty reasonably protected for the Meadows.
Edit: let me add that the last bolted .10a pitch was added after I last climbed this. Must go and do since I always hated traversing off.
ylamurto - Aug 13, 2009 10:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2009
I understand the name nowThe book said 5.9 PG so didn't expect the runouts. Other climbers said that this is typical Tuolumne.
kovarpa - Jul 21, 2009 4:17 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2009
This is 10a?holy crap! Climbed with Michal, lead P1,3 and 5. It took us about 2 hrs, got down with enough time to head to Mobil. Did On the Lamb earlier in the day.