First Gallery Icefalls WI 3+ - WI6

Overview

The First Gallery Icefalls are located beside the street from Bruneck to Rein in the Ahrntal Valley, South Tirol, Italy.
The falls are located at the right side over the first Avalanche Gallery, a kind of bridge that is built to protect the street of avalanches.
The upper parts are only visible in good weather conditions from the street.

Getting There

Take the road to the village of Rein in the Ahrntal valley and before you drive through the first avalanche Gallery, that is build over the street, you can park beside the road. Theres only one possible area to let your car there, so its easy to find.
The first 200meters you can follow a path, then you have to climb through the brooke bed, without seeing the gallery falls.

After 45 minutes, up to 1 hour, depending on the snow conditions, you reach a point from where you are able to see the left and the middle part of the icefall.

This area offers routes up to WI6 and a length of about 110 meters.

To reach the right part, wich offers the easier routes about WI3+ and 4, you have to climb over a small hill, through the wood and reach another wide gully. From there you are able to see the right fall.

If you decide to choose the right route, avoid to walk in the gully, depending on the conditions, like the ones we had, theres a big danger of avalanche, the blanket of the snow wrenched when i tried to walk a little bit too far beside the safe fringe.

In every case, the best way is to rapell down the fall in the middle, using an Abalakov.
The stands are usually built by yourself, using icescrews.

Route Description

The First Gallery Icefall offers a wide area, more than 50 meters in every fall, space enough for more roped partys.
The left and the middle Waterfall offer routes from WI4 up to WI6, the right fall offers routes between WI3+ and WI4 in good compact ice.

Essential Gear

Full ice climbing equipment
ice tools,
crampons,
harness,
two 55 meter half ropes
helmet and of course some ice screws.
Snowshoes for the approach are needful.
In this case avalanche gear is commendable, depending on the snow conditions.

External Links

The link to Rein in Taufers

http://www.hochgall.com/

Images

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