Dow Williams - Apr 17, 2013 11:08 am Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2013
Gift of the Wind Gods
With Jackie from Australia. I personally have no problem with the route in its current condition. We have way more gear (i.e. small offset cams and nuts) at our disposal than the FAers did. However, some bolts are newer than others and most stations have at least one rusted bolt/hanger.
I led both 5.10d pitches. The first one really only needs one pro bolt. Tons of good small gear for the competent leader after that. The current bolt, at a bulge, is good enough, but not modern. Could be replaced. On the 5.10d traverse, there is some good gear when it heads up. I was comfortable on the traverse itself with the bolts in place.
This route could clean up nicely, much better rock than Woman of Mountain Dreams which I did last week. The scramble to the summit plateau is a bit of a slog and currently not well described anywhere, including Handrens guide. It is not near as long or involved as Woman or Revolution. My Aussie partner thought the rock sucked, but I was pretty stoked with it on the sharp end, all in all.
Dow Williams - Apr 17, 2013 11:08 am Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2013
Gift of the Wind GodsWith Jackie from Australia. I personally have no problem with the route in its current condition. We have way more gear (i.e. small offset cams and nuts) at our disposal than the FAers did. However, some bolts are newer than others and most stations have at least one rusted bolt/hanger.
I led both 5.10d pitches. The first one really only needs one pro bolt. Tons of good small gear for the competent leader after that. The current bolt, at a bulge, is good enough, but not modern. Could be replaced. On the 5.10d traverse, there is some good gear when it heads up. I was comfortable on the traverse itself with the bolts in place.
This route could clean up nicely, much better rock than Woman of Mountain Dreams which I did last week. The scramble to the summit plateau is a bit of a slog and currently not well described anywhere, including Handrens guide. It is not near as long or involved as Woman or Revolution. My Aussie partner thought the rock sucked, but I was pretty stoked with it on the sharp end, all in all.