Did the traverse on June 25, 2022. A few things to note:
- Took us 5h30 moving time - way faster than what is indicated here
- New Yamnuska trail likely speeds things up a tad instead of the old climbers trail
- Didn't bother pulling out the rope to gian the ridge - it's 4th class if you route find. In any case it's loose so a rope would likely knock a lot of rocks
- The 5.3 slab is sparse for pro - one bolt for the belayer, possibility of putting a cam (micro) at the 'crux', one bolt after, then 2 bolt belay station.
- We did a terrain belay to go down the ledge - it's easy, but a mistake here would constitute a life altering event (ie huge drop to the side)
- Lots of tat for the rappel - including a new piece of red webbing in stellar shape. We only brought a 8mm 30m rope and it was enough
- There's another section where you can rap - but it's more of a hassle and it's more than 15m - better to just do an easy downclimb
- Bypass was almost entirely snow free - it's a steep piece of terrain though (we stayed on the ridge and it was way more fun)
Gear: if we were doing it again, we'd bring our lightweight harnesses again, helmets, 30m rope, 1-2 micro cams, anchor kit, ATC, 2 lockers. That's it.
Thanks for the update. I updated the expected time to 6 to 12 hours depending on experience level and urgency. I have heard reports of trail runners/climbers doing it in 4 hours but there are a lot of new climbers that are moving much slower.
Joe White - Nov 24, 2009 12:51 am - Voted 10/10
Great pageThanks!!
Bill Kerr - Nov 24, 2009 10:12 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Great pageThanks Joe.
Take care.
Bill
Fury - Oct 10, 2010 11:30 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice!Looks like fun Bill! Sounds like a long day.
Cheers
Colin
Bill Kerr - Oct 12, 2010 11:39 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice!Thanks Colin. It is a fun moderate trip but it is long if you do all the raps. I think we took almost 13 hours and ran out of water.
Take care
Bill
attimount - Jun 8, 2014 11:27 pm - Voted 10/10
Thank you......for great description, it was really useful for us.
Bill Kerr - Jun 9, 2014 11:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Thank you...You are welcome. Glad to know that people are reading these reports and finding them useful.
Bill
bdaneau - Jun 26, 2022 4:36 pm - Hasn't voted
2022 updateDid the traverse on June 25, 2022. A few things to note:
- Took us 5h30 moving time - way faster than what is indicated here
- New Yamnuska trail likely speeds things up a tad instead of the old climbers trail
- Didn't bother pulling out the rope to gian the ridge - it's 4th class if you route find. In any case it's loose so a rope would likely knock a lot of rocks
- The 5.3 slab is sparse for pro - one bolt for the belayer, possibility of putting a cam (micro) at the 'crux', one bolt after, then 2 bolt belay station.
- We did a terrain belay to go down the ledge - it's easy, but a mistake here would constitute a life altering event (ie huge drop to the side)
- Lots of tat for the rappel - including a new piece of red webbing in stellar shape. We only brought a 8mm 30m rope and it was enough
- There's another section where you can rap - but it's more of a hassle and it's more than 15m - better to just do an easy downclimb
- Bypass was almost entirely snow free - it's a steep piece of terrain though (we stayed on the ridge and it was way more fun)
Gear: if we were doing it again, we'd bring our lightweight harnesses again, helmets, 30m rope, 1-2 micro cams, anchor kit, ATC, 2 lockers. That's it.
Bill Kerr - Jun 26, 2022 5:16 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: 2022 updateThanks for the update. I updated the expected time to 6 to 12 hours depending on experience level and urgency. I have heard reports of trail runners/climbers doing it in 4 hours but there are a lot of new climbers that are moving much slower.