Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:51 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Taxman, 5.10a****
Have climbed it several times. Like more 5.10 cracks in the park, the crux is off the deck. Protects well with small off-set cams or nuts. I take the crack straight in and stem through the crux which is full on for the grade. I have climbed through quite a few Jtree 5.10b routes cruxes that are easier. Most who are top roped no doubt layback this section. From there, very enjoyable gear and finger crack climbing leads to easy bulge roof pull. Tax Evasion goes left under the bulge. Did it one time, nothing stands out about it.
Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:46 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
H&R Block, 5.6*
Another one Marc does not show on his page here, but put up in 1990. Just a short two bolt route on the upper face. Combine with any of the other routes that reach the ledge to reach the summit. Fixed rap on top as I recall, but Taxman's rap is to the east as well.
Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:44 pm Date Climbed: Nov 8, 2016
Mr. Bunny's Refund Check, 5.10a*
I remember really enjoying this route. Interestingly enough the topo shows it ending on the mid ledge, but another (easy) crack to the right of H&R Block (bolted) keeps going to the summit where I set up a top rope on something, I think the rap is fixed as I recall. Typical of this wall and Jtree in general, the 5.10 is close to the ground with a few more thoughtful, but easier, moves above to the ledge.
Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:40 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Mr. Bunny Versus Six Unknown Agents, 5.8*
Soft for a Jtree 5.8. Great one to teach leading on. Solid pro. Traverses right to another crack at one point which helps teach folks to route find. Combine with an upper short bolted route named H&R Block to reach the summit. Rap Taxman.
Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:36 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Mr. Bunny's Tax Shelter, 5.5
To reach the 1000 climbs club in Jtree, you have to solo routes like these when below them. Wide, but secure, towards the top. As I recall there is a single bolt on top of this section of the formation, but easy just to rap Taxman when done with this section of the wall.
Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:29 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Bloody Tax Break, 5.10b*
Bloody Tax Break is soft for the grade by Jtree standards. Tax Evasion and even Taxman have tougher cruxes in my opinion. It is a worthy splitter just to the right of Taxman. It might not be as straight forward as Taxman for pro but it is there. They all share the same fixed rap and you should definitely do all three together.
Dow Williams - Nov 13, 2016 12:41 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Nuclear Waste, 5.10b*
arc does not have this route listed either? Vogel established it in '82 and it is a stellar climb. Just to the right of Alf's Arete. A bit run out to a singular bolt for the start, but not at the grade, maybe 5.9. Then follow the right crack up and traverse left to the left crack in the middle of the face. When to traverse left becomes the crux of the pitch. If you wait until the right crack peters out, you are too far up. Rather move left as soon as the left seam starts to take gear. Super climb in my opinion that shares a fixed rap with Alf's.
Dow Williams - Nov 13, 2016 12:37 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Squatter's Right, 5.10d*
Marc does not have this route on there, but it is the overhanging wide crack formed by a boulder resting against the infamous Alf's Arete (east side). As is the norm, it is hard to move off-widths into the 5.11 realm but Squatters definitely qualities. Much more difficult a lead than Firewater Chimney for example. Mostly 4's. I faced out, you will see why. Allowed for a chimney move or two.
Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:51 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Taxman, 5.10a****Have climbed it several times. Like more 5.10 cracks in the park, the crux is off the deck. Protects well with small off-set cams or nuts. I take the crack straight in and stem through the crux which is full on for the grade. I have climbed through quite a few Jtree 5.10b routes cruxes that are easier. Most who are top roped no doubt layback this section. From there, very enjoyable gear and finger crack climbing leads to easy bulge roof pull. Tax Evasion goes left under the bulge. Did it one time, nothing stands out about it.
Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:46 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
H&R Block, 5.6*Another one Marc does not show on his page here, but put up in 1990. Just a short two bolt route on the upper face. Combine with any of the other routes that reach the ledge to reach the summit. Fixed rap on top as I recall, but Taxman's rap is to the east as well.
Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:44 pm Date Climbed: Nov 8, 2016
Mr. Bunny's Refund Check, 5.10a*I remember really enjoying this route. Interestingly enough the topo shows it ending on the mid ledge, but another (easy) crack to the right of H&R Block (bolted) keeps going to the summit where I set up a top rope on something, I think the rap is fixed as I recall. Typical of this wall and Jtree in general, the 5.10 is close to the ground with a few more thoughtful, but easier, moves above to the ledge.
Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:40 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Mr. Bunny Versus Six Unknown Agents, 5.8*Soft for a Jtree 5.8. Great one to teach leading on. Solid pro. Traverses right to another crack at one point which helps teach folks to route find. Combine with an upper short bolted route named H&R Block to reach the summit. Rap Taxman.
Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:36 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Mr. Bunny's Tax Shelter, 5.5To reach the 1000 climbs club in Jtree, you have to solo routes like these when below them. Wide, but secure, towards the top. As I recall there is a single bolt on top of this section of the formation, but easy just to rap Taxman when done with this section of the wall.
Dow Williams - Nov 17, 2016 12:29 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Bloody Tax Break, 5.10b*Bloody Tax Break is soft for the grade by Jtree standards. Tax Evasion and even Taxman have tougher cruxes in my opinion. It is a worthy splitter just to the right of Taxman. It might not be as straight forward as Taxman for pro but it is there. They all share the same fixed rap and you should definitely do all three together.
Dow Williams - Nov 13, 2016 12:41 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Nuclear Waste, 5.10b*arc does not have this route listed either? Vogel established it in '82 and it is a stellar climb. Just to the right of Alf's Arete. A bit run out to a singular bolt for the start, but not at the grade, maybe 5.9. Then follow the right crack up and traverse left to the left crack in the middle of the face. When to traverse left becomes the crux of the pitch. If you wait until the right crack peters out, you are too far up. Rather move left as soon as the left seam starts to take gear. Super climb in my opinion that shares a fixed rap with Alf's.
Dow Williams - Nov 13, 2016 12:37 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2016
Squatter's Right, 5.10d*Marc does not have this route on there, but it is the overhanging wide crack formed by a boulder resting against the infamous Alf's Arete (east side). As is the norm, it is hard to move off-widths into the 5.11 realm but Squatters definitely qualities. Much more difficult a lead than Firewater Chimney for example. Mostly 4's. I faced out, you will see why. Allowed for a chimney move or two.