Dow Williams - Aug 18, 2020 12:39 pm Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2020
Journey Home, 5.10, IV
With Pat from the front range. My favorite moderate route to date in the Black and I have climbed all the so called "classic" routes. Somehow they give the Black routes and Journey in particular exaggerated alpine grades. For a six pitch route with an approach that takes an hour and zero descent, that is ludicrous, but if that is what the FAer's and local guide have it at, I am not going to change it. I will say compared to other 5.10 IV's in the Black, Journey is the most sustained, why I like it so much. One long industrious corner to say the least. I do not agree that the first pitch is X or anywhere close to it. A lot of noise is made at MP.com regarding this first pitch, but in reality, it has more to do with the pro being hidden from below, than non existent. Adds an intimidation factor maybe, but it is protectable. Damn good route by any standard.
Dow Williams - Aug 18, 2020 12:39 pm Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2020
Journey Home, 5.10, IVWith Pat from the front range. My favorite moderate route to date in the Black and I have climbed all the so called "classic" routes. Somehow they give the Black routes and Journey in particular exaggerated alpine grades. For a six pitch route with an approach that takes an hour and zero descent, that is ludicrous, but if that is what the FAer's and local guide have it at, I am not going to change it. I will say compared to other 5.10 IV's in the Black, Journey is the most sustained, why I like it so much. One long industrious corner to say the least. I do not agree that the first pitch is X or anywhere close to it. A lot of noise is made at MP.com regarding this first pitch, but in reality, it has more to do with the pro being hidden from below, than non existent. Adds an intimidation factor maybe, but it is protectable. Damn good route by any standard.