San Juan Panorama
Mount Sneffels (center) and the Sneffels Range, from Ouray County Road #10, San Juan Mountains
Click on the image for a larger version.
Three 35mm photo panorama by Aaron Johnson
Overview
Mount Sneffels, Fall 2008 by Cami Brenk |
Sneffels is regarded by many as Colorado’s most beautiful mountain. A stunning collection of spires, pinnacles and symmetry, Sneffels certainly moves the hearts of mountain lovers the world over. Second only to mammoth Uncompahgre Peak, highest of the San Juan range, Sneffels is affectionately known as the “Queen of the San Juans.” Gracing one of the most beautiful areas found anywhere, Sneffels appears in countless calendars, postcards, guides and picture books. Sneffels also made impressive appearances in a number of westerns, notably “How the West was Won,” and more notably, in “True Grit,” where it is seen in flattering vistas from Dallas Divide, Log Hill Mesa and the Owl Creek Pass area. Next to the Maroon Bells, Sneffels is Colorado’s most recognizable mountain.
To serious climbers, Sneffels is paradise. Many routes offer a wide variety of challenges. The easiest route, Class 2+, is perfect for introducing hikers to the next phase of their climbing experience. All other routes are Class 3, 4 or 5 (technical), and the possibilities for variations are endless. Achieving the summit of this mountain via any route gives one a sense of accomplishment, and the reward is the view, regarded by many as the best and most varied landscape seen from a fourteener. Three quarters of your view is occupied by the rugged and vast San Juan range, guaranteed to render you speechless. No matter how you climb it, the Sneffels experience is one you’ll never forget.
Getting ThereFrom Denver, drive to Montrose...about 5 hours; drive down US 285 and US 24, then west on US 50 over Monarch Pass and through Gunnison to Montrose. From Montrose, drive south on US 550 about 47 miles to Ouray.
YANKEE BOY BASIN ACCESS
About a half-mile from the south end of Ouray, turn right onto Ouray County 361 (just after the first major switchback). The county road is in pretty good shape for the first 6½ miles or so, and the surrounding cliffs and mountains are spectacular! Stay right at the Camp Bird mine entrance. Winter maintence usually ends here. There is a short stretch of shelf road beyond that was carved into the cliff side during the mining days. This dramatic stretch is wide enough for one vehicle. Consider the road's condition and your experience before proceeding. Driving under falling water on this stretch is not uncommon.
A 4x4 is a good idea from the Camp Bird entrance, but most cars can make the road up into Yankee Boy Basin. After the shelf road, the grade gets steep. In wet years, several washouts and ruts may challenge a passenger car. Bypass the Imogene Pass turn-off at the top of this steep section. Continue past the townsite of Sneffels and private mining claims on your left. As you climb into Yankee Boy basin, you'll bypass a road to Governor Basin (a nice side trip if you have 4x4). You can continue up to about 2 more miles to the roads' end, but there's plenty of parking opportunities before that. Be sure to obey private property signs.
Beyond the Governor Basin sign, 4x4 is recommended for steep grades and high clearance. Some passenger cars will make it to a restroom facility in lower Yankee Boy basin. Approaching the upper basin, a trail starts at the first switchback, where limited parking is available. Many prefer to start their climb here, walking this trail or the road. Expect steep grades and high clearance challenges further up the road.
    
BLUE LAKES/BLAINE BASIN via EAST DALLAS ROAD ACCESS
From Ridgway on US 550, travel west 4.7 miles on Colorado Highway 62 (and scenic byway) to the East Dallas Creek National Forest access road. A sign is posted. Follow this well maintained county road through private property, guided by well placed signs. This is one of the prettiest drives you'll ever take! Follow the road to its end, where Sneffels will gaze down upon you. The Blaine Basin and Blue Lakes trails begin here (see pictures below).
The Blue Lakes trail is popular and easy to follow to the lower lake (gorgeous!). The trail is thinner as it climbs to the higher lakes and Blue Lakes pass. This is very steep hiking, but people are sparse beyond the lower lake. The South Ridge 3rd Class route starts from the pass. For the standard approach, follow the thin trail down through switchbacks traversing talus to a sign directing you up the Lavender Col.
The Blaine Basin approach starts at the same trailhead, winding eastward around Sneffels' impressive north butress ridge. From the basin, most technical north face routes are accessed. The climb up to the Sneffels/Kismet saddle is very steep and loose pull, but from here the going gets better on the standard route.
Route OptionsSTANDARD ROUTE: SOUTHEAST COULOIR Class 2 Also known as LAVENDER COL
A scramble up a packed scree field, a 600' boulder filled couloir, a climb through a notch and a scramble to the top. See the complete description for this route in the ROUTES section (upper left).
The Colorado Fourteener Initiative (CFI), a volunteer organization devoted to trail construction and preservation of the natural beauty of the Colorado fourteeners, worked on improving this route during the 2003 summer season. According to SP member Wayne Afflick, they did an excellent job.
    
SOUTH RIDGE (Class 3)
Follow the trail to Blue Lakes Pass, hang a right and spend the next two hours climbing and climbing. Loose rock and exposure are present, prior climbing experience strongly suggested. See the complete description for this route in the ROUTES section, and a detailed trip report here.
    
SNAKE COULOIR (AI 2-3, Class 5.5)
Steep snow and ice followed by roughly 100 feet of Class 5 climbing. Solid rock littered with loose rocks. Descend the standard route to Lavender Col, then descend snow or talus and scree (depending on the season) back to Blaine Basin and your starting point. Can be executed in a long day from the TH, or several hours from a Blaine Basin camp. Thanks to SP members Dreamweaver1 (photos) and clevelac for this important route description and advice! See the full description in the ROUTES SECTION (upper left).
  
SOUTH FACE "BIRTHDAY CHUTES"
A snow climb and ski descent of the couloirs on the south face of Sneffels. Not recommended in dry conditions due to rockfall potential.
BLAINE BASIN
Beautiful and less crowded approach to the rocky wasteland in upper Blaine Basin, where a steep and loose scree slope grants access to the rest of the Lavender Col standard route. Better executed on consolidated snow cover with axe and crampons.
TECHNICAL ROUTES
If you have climbed any of the following technical routes, you are encouraged to submit your experience (ADD A ROUTE) in the ROUTES section of this page, along with photos. Detailed TRIP REPORTS are very welcome!
Established Routes: East Couloir, Northeast Arete, Northwest Couloir, Direct Route, Northwest Ridge
I encourage technical climbers to submit their routes or ascents of established routes. Accompanying trip reports with details on moves, pitches, rope and rack contents are most welcome. My desire is to represent this mountain's impressive diversity to the best extent possible. Your input will make it so! Feel free to email any questions or suggestions concerning your route submission. Thank you! --AJ
ICE CLIMBERS: Check out the Ouray Ice Park link (Mountain Conditions & Additional Information) for great ice climbing opportunities!
Red Tape & Lots of ControversyJUNE, 2008: A sign was found on the Yankee Boy road suggesting fees are returning to Yankee Boy Basin. As events develop, they'll be reported here. Hopefully this refers to camping and facility use fees. If you do not camp or use the provided facilities, consider not paying the fee.
The following was supplied in a July 27th, 2005 post to this section by SP member mnadiak, a Montrose resident:
In 2003, the newly formed Yankee Boy Conservation Association and Ouray Co. asked the USFS to drop access fees for Canyon Creek and Y.B. Basin. The Feds complied, and it is again free to access your public lands. It is noteworthy that this is the first place in the U.S. that local opposition to access fees successfully caused those fees to be removed.
YBCA has volunteer "Alpine Hosts" in the area most days of the summer season to greet visitors, answer questions, keep an eye on resource protection issues, and render assistance (usually by calling for help!) if necessary. Qualifications for being an Alpine Host are minimal. Generally, you just need to have a 4WD, basic knowledge of the mountains, and a willingness to be friendly and helpful. A resource box of maps, guidebooks, etc. are provided, along with basic duties and instructions. Some volunteers just come up 1 or 2 days a summer to pitch in and help keep Yankee Boy free.
For more info. on the Yankee Boy non-profit and/or volunteering go to www.yankeeboy.org or call 970-240-1358
The latest news on the fees, as reported by a site opposed to the fee program, can be found at Free Our Forests.
SUMMITPOST DISCUSSION
This page will continue to report any current news as it is made available.
When To Climb
Cornice in dogleg near the Snake Couloir
Photo by SP member Peerzat Optimal dry conditions are mid June through late September. Snow will linger in the higher couloirs into July after a normal snowfall year.
Late February through mid June are good for snow climbs, however avalanche danger must be considered on the standard approach through Yankee Boy Basin and upper Blaine Basin below Lavender Col, and all couloir routes.
Winter and late spring approaches extend required time considerably.
Sneffels can be climbed year-round, however in normal and heavy snowfall years, the road may be closed from Camp Bird, and the east Dallas road access may be closed at the forest boundary gate. Inquire with the Ouray County office about road information before proceeding.
See MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS for links.
CampingATTENION: The Atlas Camp site has been wiped out by avalanche and run-off debris, but the toilets were undamaged. A sign stating camping fees would resume in 2008 was also found on the road.
Yankee Boy Basin
Camping is restricted. The townsite of Sneffels and local mines are private property. Please respect landowner's rights.
Dallas Creek
Fine camping spots are available near the end of the road at the trailhead, along the trail and at the Blue Lakes. These areas are popular and fill up quickly during the summer, so plan accordingly. Blaine Basin camping opportunities are reported to be excellent for beauty and solitude.
Posted by mnadiak, a Montrose resident:
Since 2001, camping in Canyon Creek (the road/drainage you drive up to reach Yankee Boy Basin from Ouray) has been in designated sites only. There are 3 camping pods. Listed from lowest down to highest up the road, they are: Angle Creek, Thistledown, and Atlas. Atlas is near tree-line and only 2 miles or so from the highest Sneffels trailhead. For clarification, this camping serves the most popular (S. couloir) and W. ridge climbs from Y.B. Basin. Camping costs $10 (a bit steep for what you get!) and cannot be reserved. Sites are not guaranteed level, no water, no picnic table, there is a fire ring and porta-potty facility.
For more developed camping near the Ouray access to Sneffels, try the USFS Ampitheater Campground. This site has hosts, tables, nice potties, firewood for sale, etc. And... it's only a few minutes from all the hustle-bustle of Ouray.
Mountain Conditions and Additional InformationRockfall is common on the mountain, or anywhere in the San Juans, particularly in the spring and after heavy storms. Be alert and ready to react to rockfall, and wear a helmet if conditions dictate.
Always check avalanche conditions before heading into the Colorado High Country!!
Avalanche Conditions
Telluride/Western San Juan Regional Weather
GOES Western Satellite Image
Uncompahgre National Forest
Ouray Information
Ridgway Information
ICE CLIMBERS: The city of Ouray is home to a premiere ice climbing park. Pioneered by Jeff Lowe and a devoted national ice climbing community, the Ouray Ice Park has developed a reputation for being the absolute best in ice climbing. The park's website can be accessed via Ouay's website above, or this direct link: Ouray Ice Park
SUMMITPOST HAS A GREAT PAGE FEATURING THE OURAY ICE PARK! The SummitPost Ouray Ice Park Route Page is part of SP's Ice Climbing Adventure Forum, which is ideal for ice enthusiasts searching SP for ice routes. Be sure to check it out!
Climbing History of Mt. SneffelsBecause of its striking appearance, Mt. Sneffels has lured climbers of all abilities since the late 19th century. Sneffels offers many goals and challenging routes varying in difficulty. Many routes have yet to be discovered on this beautiful and complex mountain. Are you one of those route pioneers? If so, Sneffels is the mountain for you.
Miners were likely among the first people to climb Mt. Sneffels and the neighboring peaks. The first recorded ascent was by the Hayden Survey team on September 10, 1874. The mountain was named by the surveyors after the Iceland volcano Snaefell, which figured prominently in the classic Jules Verne tale “Journey to the Center of the Earth.”
The next known ascent was made by contractor/prospector Alexander Taylor and Frederick Chapin, climbing the southeast couloir (now the standard route) in 1890. In the 1930s, the range was extensively climbed by the pioneering San Juan Mountaineers. The Sneffels north face was a primary objective. Different routes were established in 1931, 1932 and 1933. According to Dwight Lavender, some of the best climbing in the state was discovered during the development of these routes, and are every bit as difficult as other notable peaks in Colorado, including Coxcomb, Mt. Wilson, Capitol and Lizard Head.
The San Juan Mountaineers also pioneered climbs of the pinnacles surrounding Sneffels 1932-1934, but Purgatory Point, west of Sneffles, was not scaled officially until May 1958 by Henry L. and Frank McClintock, according to Trail and Timberline. David Lewis and Frank McClintock also scaled the northwest ridge that year.
The first winter ascent was executed in 1934 by Mel Griffiths and Gordon Williams. The approach was from Blaine Basin, then joining the standard route. This event was regarded as the advent of winter mountaineering in the San Juans. A notable accomplishment in later years was the winter 1983 ascent of the north face east couloir with a traverse onto the main face, followed by a direct climb. Kitty Calhoun and Lyle Dean pioneered the route, reporting sixty degree snow slope, mixed and varied rock pitches, and a bivouac about half way up.
Aknowledgements: Guide to the Colorado Mountains by Robert Ormes, 4th revised edition; The Majestic Fourteeners...Colorado's Highest by George Crouter; The San Juan Mountains-A Climbing and Hiking Guide by Robert F. Rosebrough. All excellent and informative reading!
Congratulations Summiters!Add your summit photo. Photos will be rotated by the maintainer regularly. Congratulations on climbing Colorado's prettiest mountain!
Blue Lakes BasinsNot only are the Blue Lakes a great spot from which to climb the surrounding peaks of the Mount Sneffels Wilderness, but they are also situated in one of the most beautiful mountain paradises in the world! Check out the photos in this section for some real eye candy!
Yankee Boy BasinThe staging point for climbs of Mount Sneffels, Gilpin, Kismet, Cirque, Teakettle and Potosi Peaks, Yankee Boy Basin is also known for its old mining relics, spectacular jeep road and stunning wildflowers. Perhaps the greatest haven for Columbines, the Colorado State Flower, Yankee Boy Basin's reputation is well earned. Check out the photos below!
Mount Sneffels & The SeasonsThe fall in the San Juans is unbeatable in terms of spectacular splendor. Check out the photos in this section!
Mount Sneffels in the winter by SP member Jason Halladay
Sneffels Range in the Fall by SP member Yorksman
External Links Images
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Sneffels Range, Colorado
