Overview
Mount Oso from Hunchback Mountain Photo by Aaron Johnson, Summer, 1979 Mt. Oso is perhaps Colorado’s most obscure thirteener, and one of the most rugged and hard to reach. The mountain is well guarded by lesser peaks in height, but all of these peaks do not offer easy access or routes. This group of mountains, at times referred to as the Oso massif, is formidable in scope and scale. The approach and climbs are daunting propositions.
The total round trip mileage described on the Rock Lake route exceeds 40 miles. The actual climb is Class 3 over steep and unstable San Juan rock, deep in the Weminuche Wilderness. A shorter (21 miles) and steeper route up Irving Creek and Oso's southwest slopes is Class 2 but involves formidable bushwacking and route finding. An untried route through serious wilderness terrain is possible up Roell Creek, accessed from the Vallecito drainage. From any angle, this mountain is a lengthy undertaking not to be taken lightly, and undoubtedly is one of Colorado’s last great challenges.
The mountain was supposedly first climbed during the Hayden Survey Expedition in the late 1800s, when members of the party supposedly encountered a grizzly bear near the summit. Startled, the bear charged past the men, wanting nothing to do with them. Thus the name for the mountain came to be. “Oso” is the Spanish word for “bear.”
Mount Oso sits in the heart of the San Juan range in a rugged, remote mountain area that many would only imagine visiting. The scope of this page has been extended beyond the Oso Massif in terms of photographs, due to its outstanding location. Take time to tour the photos to get a good look at this extraordinary area. Be sure to check out the Rock Lake and Irving Creek routes in the ROUTES section, and the trip reports. These resources are among the rare and best you'll find on the internet, and SummitPost has them!
Getting ThereFrom Bayfield, east of Durango on Highway 160, drive north on County Road 501 8 miles to the town of Columbus. Proceed through town on 501 northeast to the Vallecito Reservoir. Continue northward on 501 along the west shore of the reservoir to the popular Vallecito Creek trailhead, at just over 13 more miles. There is ample parking.
Route Options
ROCK LAKE
From Rock Lake: 2.25 miles, gain of 2140 feet
From Vallecito Trailhead: 40 miles round trip, gain of 5,768 feet
See the ROUTE DESCRIPTION in the upper left hand corner for details.
IRVING CREEK
7 miles to Irving Creek confluence
9 miles to Irving Lake
10 miles to saddle
10.5 miles to summit
Trailhead Elevation: 7924 feet
Gain: 5876 feet
This suggested route is primitive in nature. Bushwacking and route finding are required. See the ROUTE DESCRIPTION in the upper left hand corner for details.
ROELL CREEK
10.2 miles to Roell Creek confluence
12.6 miles to Lost Lake
13.3 miles to saddle
13.6 miles to Oso summit
Trailhead Elevation: 7924 feet
Gain: 5876 feet
This suggested route is primitive in nature. Bushwacking and route finding are required.
Mount Oso ChallengeMuch time and tenacity are required to reach Oso’s flanks, let alone climb the mountain. It would be great if an SP member would be the first in who-knows-how-long to climb it. Are you this person? I challenge determined climbers to climb Oso, submit your route, trip report and summit log to this page. I hope to see the results of your attempt, good or bad, submitted here---whenever….if ever! Oso is calling. Who has the right stuff to answer…and succeed? --AJ
Summer 2003: SP member attm answers this challenge handily by executing the Irving Creek route. Congratulations and well done!
Continental Divide Hike
Jagged and Vallecito Mountains from the Continental Divide, Weminuche Wilderness Photo by Aaron Johnson, Summer, 1994 CONTINENTAL DIVIDE
This pleasant side trip can be executed from a camp near Rock Lake. Proceed up the trail over the Continental Divide that starts at a junction a tenth of a mile north of Rock Lake. The trail takes you to a broad pass. Depart from the trail and use your route finding skills to maneuver through bogs and willows due north toward the gentle ridge buttress of the Continental Divide. Once on the ridge, pick a high point from which to pause and enjoy the staggering view and silent solitude. Return the same route or pick your way back as you prefer. Rock Lake and your camping vicinity are visible all the time to the southwest.
From trail junction: 2 miles, depending on where you go on the ridge
Gain: 986 feet +/-
Bushwacking and route finding are required.
When To ClimbSummer or fall is best. The success of a Spring time approach is unlikely.
An organized and well funded winter expedition with highly experienced winter mountaineers would find this mountain a considerable challenge. For the rest of us, a winter ascent of this mountain is not practical, nor is it recommended.
CampingMany outstanding camp sites are available along the Vallecito Trail. Camp sites are abundant in the Rock Creek area once the trail levels out below Rock Lake. Alpine camping possibilities abound in the Rock Lake area and surrounding vicinity. Camping possibilities are questionable in the Irving and Roell creek drainages, although alpine camping possibilities likely exist at Irving and Lost Lake vicinities.
Mountain ConditionsDurango and South San Juan Weather
GOES Western US Satellite Image
Vallecito Trail is used by outfitters, riders, tourists, backpackers and sportsmen. The trail is wide and well maintained for a good distance. The trail is well traveled to Rock Creek and beyond.
Suggested Roell and Irving Creek Accesses from the Vallecito are sketchy and primitive in nature. Expect bushwacking and route finding challenges up steep terrain. The Johnson Creek trail, heading west over Columbine Pass to the area fourteeners, is well marked and heavily traveled. The trails above Rock Lake over the Divide and to Moon Lakes are well traveled and obvious.
The climb of the mountain is another matter. This is true wilderness trekking above timberline. Expect pristine and primitive conditions. Loose rock is abundant on this mountain. Winter conditions should be considered nothing less than treacherous and will defy approach due to the approach distance alone.
Mount Oso is as obscure as a thirteener can get in the 48 states. For conditions research, there are no links to cams, and weather reports are regional and approximate at best. The mountain is located in the San Juan National Forest. Beyond these statements, Mount Oso is still truly the great unknown goal that readily evades the information age handily. You must approach Oso on ITS terms.
Vicinity Photos
Jagged Mountain from the East Photo by SP member ATTM
External Links Images
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San Juan Range
