Overview
Vestal Peak is interesting primarily because of its north face/buttress - known as Wham Ridge. Wham Ridge must be seen to be believed. With careful route-finding, it can be climbed as an approx. 1500' 4th class rock climb, with short low fifth class passages. Most parties will however, find a rope and a small rack comforting, particularly if the rock (quartzite) is wet. A rope/rack will also allow one to explore many interesting and challenging variations (to 5.8) on this remarkable face.
There is also a third-class route on Vestal (generally used as a descent route). This is the scree-filled southeast couloir - approached from the Vestal-Arrow saddle.
Good descriptions of the approach and route can be found in Garrat and Martin - "Colorado's High Thirteeners", and Rosebrough - "Climbing Colorado's San Juan Mountains".
Getting There
Vestal Peak is part of the Grenadier Range in the Weminuche Wilderness in the San Juan Range of southern Colorado. Parties with the time/inclination to schedule a trip on the Durango-Silverton* train can start for the Grenadiers/Vestal from Elk Park on the Animas River (elevation 8860'). Otherwise, one starts at Molas Pass south of Silverton on US550, and descends 1700 vertical feet (35 switchbacks) to Elk Park. Fit parties will find the flexibility of the Molas approach more than worth the extra couple of hours descent/ascent time.
From Elk Park, a trail (the Colorado Trail) leads up Elk Creek to small beaver ponds. A less-traveled trail departs the Colorado Trail on the right, circling back past the largest pond, traversing some flat campsites and descending a ravine to cross Elk Creek. This passage can be difficult to find, but one must do it to find the vague trail up Vestal Creek. This (unmaintained) trail climbs steeply - crossing many fallen trees** - and is easy to lose. The trail reaches a large basin below the Arrow/Electric Peak col, and then climbs to a meadow below Arrow. Campsites can be found in and around the meadow (11,300') - one can also find campsites further up the trail toward Trinity Peaks, or proceed all the way to Vestal Lake (12,200') above treeline and directly below Wham Ridge.
* for information on the train, call 970-247-2733 or visit www.durangotrain.com.
** As of 8/03, the fallen tree situation on the trail makes for an irritating climb - particularly if you are carring rope/full rack for other technical climbs in the area (e.g. Arrow). If you are going in, have extra time and the inclination to carry a portable saw, you could make your trip (and that of others) much more pleasurable by cutting out a few dozen of the smaller trees that cross the trail. The deterioration of this trail in the 22 years between climbs ('81 and '03) is significant - not sure if this is by design or simple neglect.
Red Tape
None.
When To Climb
The crossing of Elk Creek can be problematic when runoff is high, so the approach is most easily made when most of the snow has melted. Elk Creek near the trail crossing is a beautiful place late in the season - don't miss the chance to dip into one of the clear, deep pools on your way down!
Camping
Vestal Peak is in the Weminuche Wilderness, so general US wilderness rules apply. Fire restrictions are common, and there have been large wildfires on the area over the years, so it is best to check for fire status/access restrictions before departing.
Mountain Conditions
Weather conditions:
http://www.crh.noaa.gov/gjt/
Fire information:
http://www.nifc.gov/
External LinksImages
|
San Juan Range
