Dow Williams - Jun 29, 2009 12:20 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2009
Necromancer
Ok route, don't see the sustained portions mentioned in the book or on this site, but then it is Yam I guess. I led the three 5.10a pitches and the 5.9. All fairly tame. The first 5.10a pitch is the crux of the climb. Must climb bad steep rock, run out from the belay, for the first several meters. Eases up once you get on the good protectable slab, of course. The next 5.10a is right above this pitch, a real fun wide stem box move, again run out, gets you to some manky pitons, then a fun airy traverse over the big roof with some more manky pitons. The 5.8 traverse back the other direction right after this pitch is not for the weak of heart 5.8 leaders. Quite exposed and a bit run out from piton to piton with little pro. The 5.9 after that seems soft. The final 5.10 is fun for the first 10m or so, but then pretty uneventful from there. Great day with Steve F.
Dow Williams - Jun 29, 2009 12:20 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2009
NecromancerOk route, don't see the sustained portions mentioned in the book or on this site, but then it is Yam I guess. I led the three 5.10a pitches and the 5.9. All fairly tame. The first 5.10a pitch is the crux of the climb. Must climb bad steep rock, run out from the belay, for the first several meters. Eases up once you get on the good protectable slab, of course. The next 5.10a is right above this pitch, a real fun wide stem box move, again run out, gets you to some manky pitons, then a fun airy traverse over the big roof with some more manky pitons. The 5.8 traverse back the other direction right after this pitch is not for the weak of heart 5.8 leaders. Quite exposed and a bit run out from piton to piton with little pro. The 5.9 after that seems soft. The final 5.10 is fun for the first 10m or so, but then pretty uneventful from there. Great day with Steve F.