Dow Williams - Mar 25, 2009 2:25 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2009
North Face
Yes I concur, fantastic desert tower route, by anyone's standard. I liked the OW 3rd pitch, but then I drink Coors light beer as well. Either take a #6 or stop at 4". I carried the damn #5 all the way to the summit on lead. Nothing to say about that first pitch, it is just as good and straight forward as trad gets really. The crux of those last two pitches was really the weird, hard to protect on lead, overhanging 2" crack on that meandering 2nd pitch. The story I read somewhere on the net of the young men who thought they were on the North Chimney as they battled the first pitch is kind of stories I sure wish climbing Mags would print more of, versus who the latest climbing jock is.
Having looked at this years after posting it, I realize there might have been confusion as to the #5 and #6. The new style BD cams #6 are the same size as the old style #5s. I did this with old style #5s. Yeah, BD's renumbering is confusing. You're correct, there is no place for the new #5s.
poorboy44 - May 4, 2006 4:58 pm Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2006
Great route!
Fantastic route but very cold and windy on this particular day. Recommend 5 #3 Camalots for the first pitch. Also bring many long slings for the last pitch. Thought the crux was easy for 5.11-...but that's just me.
Dow Williams - Mar 25, 2009 2:25 pm Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2009
North FaceYes I concur, fantastic desert tower route, by anyone's standard. I liked the OW 3rd pitch, but then I drink Coors light beer as well. Either take a #6 or stop at 4". I carried the damn #5 all the way to the summit on lead. Nothing to say about that first pitch, it is just as good and straight forward as trad gets really. The crux of those last two pitches was really the weird, hard to protect on lead, overhanging 2" crack on that meandering 2nd pitch. The story I read somewhere on the net of the young men who thought they were on the North Chimney as they battled the first pitch is kind of stories I sure wish climbing Mags would print more of, versus who the latest climbing jock is.
colbyjw - Jun 12, 2013 2:51 am
Re: North FaceHaving looked at this years after posting it, I realize there might have been confusion as to the #5 and #6. The new style BD cams #6 are the same size as the old style #5s. I did this with old style #5s. Yeah, BD's renumbering is confusing. You're correct, there is no place for the new #5s.
poorboy44 - May 4, 2006 4:58 pm Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2006
Great route!Fantastic route but very cold and windy on this particular day. Recommend 5 #3 Camalots for the first pitch. Also bring many long slings for the last pitch. Thought the crux was easy for 5.11-...but that's just me.