Dow Williams - Aug 24, 2014 12:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2014
Northeast Arete
Four climbs in four nights in the Winds with Steph Abegg, nice trip. This is a great route to do to or fro on your way into the Cirque. Takes half a day. Led the route. The first two pitches were not very clean. The third pitch I extended beyond 200' for a fantastic pitch of mostly technical fingers and slab. The traverse is wicked but short lived really, you just cannot see the seam you are heading for, but just a few meters away. The button head pro sucks as there is a ledge below. The crux for me was the bulge on the finger crack. Slab/mantle move off a precarious #0 placement above but bomber #1 placement underneath. The way we finished was by taking the hand rail for a few meters and exiting up another finger crack via a ramp to the summit. Seems in keeping with the previous pitch to me.
Dow Williams - Aug 24, 2014 12:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 19, 2014
Northeast AreteFour climbs in four nights in the Winds with Steph Abegg, nice trip. This is a great route to do to or fro on your way into the Cirque. Takes half a day. Led the route. The first two pitches were not very clean. The third pitch I extended beyond 200' for a fantastic pitch of mostly technical fingers and slab. The traverse is wicked but short lived really, you just cannot see the seam you are heading for, but just a few meters away. The button head pro sucks as there is a ledge below. The crux for me was the bulge on the finger crack. Slab/mantle move off a precarious #0 placement above but bomber #1 placement underneath. The way we finished was by taking the hand rail for a few meters and exiting up another finger crack via a ramp to the summit. Seems in keeping with the previous pitch to me.