Dow Williams - Jun 18, 2023 2:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2023
Dire Pitch, 5.8***
A great lead at the grade for someone pushing the grade. Varied and mostly wide climbing with intermittent chimney and stemming. As with most routes in the Voo, despite the guide and MP.com calling it 2 pitches, it is easy to do it in one at about 150’. Start up an obvious chimney/off width below and just left of the fat obvious orange roof. Plenty of gear to place without the need for large pieces. You pull out of the weakness near the end on the left side and climb low angled textured slab protected by an ancient bolt (not a factor) and move back right to the top with a medium gear belay and 360 degree views. You can rap by walking climbers right about 80’ with a single 60m rope off a fixed rap back to your packs essentially. This is one of the coolest summits in the Voo. A large bench you are walking along with great views.
Dow Williams - Jun 18, 2023 2:28 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2023
Straight Edge, 5.9+***
An excellent splitter at the grade, but it is relatively short (35’). It is a great extension of Arretez Maintenant to MRC Direct finishing on Straight Edge. It has its own fixed rap atop that you can use to do a short rap to the top of MRC Direct. Four single rope raps to get down if you combine all three routes, which makes sense. They are essentially the same grade. Straight Edge looks like fists, but you can reach for large hands if you rather. It is a vertical straight in crack, so the feet are bomber for the most part. A #4 or two is helpful particularly towards the exit. #3’s and #2’s can be placed lower, and that is about all the gear. There is a fixed wire at the start as of 2023 that protects the initial exposure. 35’.
Dow Williams - Jun 18, 2023 2:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2023
MRC Direct, 5.9****
Most of the praise of this route has to do with its length, start and roof moves. It is not sustained, but does offer a long and varied pitch (recommended as one lead vs climbing it in 2 pitches as the local guide suggests). Stem a cool start with a small piece protection in a slot. This start can be wet but the stemming gets you over the wet section in a few meters. Jam below from there to a mid fixed rap with the punchy, for the grade, roof. The secret is finding a foot out right allowing you to stem with the jams as you pull it. From there, below grade again to the base of Straight Edge, which is a the perfect hands and fist spitter on a pillar atop the formation. Do a gear belay here if you want to climb that route or continue up easy ground left to a top fixed rap anchor. 140’. Single to #3. Add a few medium pitches depending on whether you are climbing at your grade or not. Wires or offset cams are handy. The belay below Straight Edge is medium gear. Two single 60m rope raps to the ground. A 70m does not quite make it it in one rap from the top.
Dow Williams - Jun 18, 2023 2:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2023
Arretez Maintenant (aka Old Easy Arete), 5.9***
5.9 in the local guide, 5.9+ on MP.com. For some reason this arete reminded me of War Paint in Cochise. It could fit right end with the arete pitches of that route. Climbing solid crystals and textured slab on a well bolted arete. This is the best way to reach the large bench at the base of the upper routes which include the local classic MRC Direct. Fully bolted route to a fixed rap. 100’.
SarahThompson - Sep 5, 2018 4:42 pm Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2018
Via MRC Direct
Climbed MRC Direct to Straight Edge and then scrambled to summit.
Stu Brandel - Sep 14, 2016 5:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2016
I am Old, It is not Easy
I tried to climb this on a very foggy day and was stymied near the top.
Dow Williams - Jun 18, 2023 2:36 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2023
Dire Pitch, 5.8***A great lead at the grade for someone pushing the grade. Varied and mostly wide climbing with intermittent chimney and stemming. As with most routes in the Voo, despite the guide and MP.com calling it 2 pitches, it is easy to do it in one at about 150’. Start up an obvious chimney/off width below and just left of the fat obvious orange roof. Plenty of gear to place without the need for large pieces. You pull out of the weakness near the end on the left side and climb low angled textured slab protected by an ancient bolt (not a factor) and move back right to the top with a medium gear belay and 360 degree views. You can rap by walking climbers right about 80’ with a single 60m rope off a fixed rap back to your packs essentially. This is one of the coolest summits in the Voo. A large bench you are walking along with great views.
Dow Williams - Jun 18, 2023 2:28 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2023
Straight Edge, 5.9+***An excellent splitter at the grade, but it is relatively short (35’). It is a great extension of Arretez Maintenant to MRC Direct finishing on Straight Edge. It has its own fixed rap atop that you can use to do a short rap to the top of MRC Direct. Four single rope raps to get down if you combine all three routes, which makes sense. They are essentially the same grade. Straight Edge looks like fists, but you can reach for large hands if you rather. It is a vertical straight in crack, so the feet are bomber for the most part. A #4 or two is helpful particularly towards the exit. #3’s and #2’s can be placed lower, and that is about all the gear. There is a fixed wire at the start as of 2023 that protects the initial exposure. 35’.
Dow Williams - Jun 18, 2023 2:26 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2023
MRC Direct, 5.9****Most of the praise of this route has to do with its length, start and roof moves. It is not sustained, but does offer a long and varied pitch (recommended as one lead vs climbing it in 2 pitches as the local guide suggests). Stem a cool start with a small piece protection in a slot. This start can be wet but the stemming gets you over the wet section in a few meters. Jam below from there to a mid fixed rap with the punchy, for the grade, roof. The secret is finding a foot out right allowing you to stem with the jams as you pull it. From there, below grade again to the base of Straight Edge, which is a the perfect hands and fist spitter on a pillar atop the formation. Do a gear belay here if you want to climb that route or continue up easy ground left to a top fixed rap anchor. 140’. Single to #3. Add a few medium pitches depending on whether you are climbing at your grade or not. Wires or offset cams are handy. The belay below Straight Edge is medium gear. Two single 60m rope raps to the ground. A 70m does not quite make it it in one rap from the top.
Dow Williams - Jun 18, 2023 2:24 pm Date Climbed: Jun 5, 2023
Arretez Maintenant (aka Old Easy Arete), 5.9***5.9 in the local guide, 5.9+ on MP.com. For some reason this arete reminded me of War Paint in Cochise. It could fit right end with the arete pitches of that route. Climbing solid crystals and textured slab on a well bolted arete. This is the best way to reach the large bench at the base of the upper routes which include the local classic MRC Direct. Fully bolted route to a fixed rap. 100’.
SarahThompson - Sep 5, 2018 4:42 pm Date Climbed: Jun 13, 2018
Via MRC DirectClimbed MRC Direct to Straight Edge and then scrambled to summit.
Stu Brandel - Sep 14, 2016 5:42 pm Date Climbed: Sep 13, 2016
I am Old, It is not EasyI tried to climb this on a very foggy day and was stymied near the top.