Dow Williams - Apr 10, 2016 7:19 pm Date Climbed: Feb 3, 2016
Candelabra
This precarious huge flake climb is listed as a top rope in Miramontes guide. The large flake is slightly detached. Another guide has it as RX. It will take more than some skinny climber dude jamming up this flake to cause it to fall, but it will fall some time, possibly in our lifetime. I jammed up the right side because that was where the fun was. Going up the finger crack on the left side would be safer. To reach the actual rap will require much harder climbing than 5.10a. In the guide, it ends atop the flake where there is no fixed rap. It is a top rope climb.
Dow Williams - Apr 10, 2016 7:17 pm Date Climbed: Feb 3, 2016
Orc
Miramontes give the Orc just one star in his guide, but it is as good as many of the two star 5.10a’s in the park. Start up the flaring crack system stemming here and there, sometimes straight in. I placed several small pieces. The crux or at least most physical part was pulling the bulge (I went straight up vs left). You lose jams and feel insecure for a short moment until you can reach a flake up and right. Mantel up to a ledge and continue up the off-width crack above. I took nothing but up to C4#2, but am comfortable in off width. Follow the wide crack to a huge ledge above. Medium to small gear belay. Rap is just a walk to the left above Candelabra.
Dow Williams - Apr 10, 2016 7:19 pm Date Climbed: Feb 3, 2016
CandelabraThis precarious huge flake climb is listed as a top rope in Miramontes guide. The large flake is slightly detached. Another guide has it as RX. It will take more than some skinny climber dude jamming up this flake to cause it to fall, but it will fall some time, possibly in our lifetime. I jammed up the right side because that was where the fun was. Going up the finger crack on the left side would be safer. To reach the actual rap will require much harder climbing than 5.10a. In the guide, it ends atop the flake where there is no fixed rap. It is a top rope climb.
Dow Williams - Apr 10, 2016 7:17 pm Date Climbed: Feb 3, 2016
OrcMiramontes give the Orc just one star in his guide, but it is as good as many of the two star 5.10a’s in the park. Start up the flaring crack system stemming here and there, sometimes straight in. I placed several small pieces. The crux or at least most physical part was pulling the bulge (I went straight up vs left). You lose jams and feel insecure for a short moment until you can reach a flake up and right. Mantel up to a ledge and continue up the off-width crack above. I took nothing but up to C4#2, but am comfortable in off width. Follow the wide crack to a huge ledge above. Medium to small gear belay. Rap is just a walk to the left above Candelabra.