A nice day out from the Yoho campground. Climbed the glacier in good snow conditions to the col. Incoming weather and a non-trivial route around the bergschrund made that the highpoint for the day. A good call, lightening / hail storm started as we got to back to camp. Approach & hike out were more brutal than I was expecting.
Easy route from Emerald lake allthough you must know where to get out of the gully so that you can make it on to the glacier. We got up to the glacier only to realize that my buddy's ice axe had fallen of his pack during the approach. Went back down found the axe and made our way back up. We had lost approx. 600m elevation. This peak has about 1800m vertical from the parking lot which means we got our exercise that day with approx. 2400 of up and down. Yep, my knees were sore at the end of that one!
Route Climbed: North Glacier Date Climbed: August 2, 2005
Perfect conditions. There was one other team on the glacier. We climbed from the left side to the right as the route description. Shrund is filled in but starting to open up. Summit ridge mostly clear of snow except the peak. Cornices looking fragile.
Route Climbed: President & Vice President Date Climbed: July, 2004
On July 19th, Michael Thompson, myself, two female companions and one dog took off from Takakkaw Falls trail head and hiked in the necessary 10k+ to the little Yoho campground passing by numerous falls. On July 21st, we started out at 5:AM and summitted the President in under 3 hours. Michael took a break at the col while I summitted Vice President and we were back at camp for espresso before 10:30.
We took the left hand side picking an ascent route through several crevasses and then finished to the col over the 'schrund on the right side. This route was fast and esthetically pleasing, as well as kept us out of harms way regarding any rock or ice fall. I noted one soft bridge on our descent of the same route. The 'schrund is huge, relative to this glacier. If you have to climb in and out if it, definitely allow for more time. Once we got to the col, we un roped and proceeded up to the President on snow, rock and some ice. We signed the summit register and then I scattered up Vice President and signed it's register as well. We had wintry conditions at the col and the peaks, with no views. Our descent was typically quick. I would do this mountain solo, but of course, l was grateful for a partner on glacier travel.
mjp20k - Jan 2, 2013 3:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2011
PresidentExcellent conditions and fabulous views.
Old School WB - Feb 6, 2012 3:23 pm Date Climbed: Sep 4, 1995
President & Vice PresidentPretty weather and conditions for our team of 4, OSWB, A. Meyers, T. Bester and L. Lalonde on the standard north glacier.
sshankle - Jul 23, 2010 6:00 pm Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2010
President GlacierA nice day out from the Yoho campground. Climbed the glacier in good snow conditions to the col. Incoming weather and a non-trivial route around the bergschrund made that the highpoint for the day. A good call, lightening / hail storm started as we got to back to camp. Approach & hike out were more brutal than I was expecting.
bfrench - Apr 30, 2009 9:18 pm
Vice PresidentClimbed vice president while ski touring from Stanley Mitchell.
MtnMagic - Oct 20, 2007 12:05 pm
Emerald lake approachEasy route from Emerald lake allthough you must know where to get out of the gully so that you can make it on to the glacier. We got up to the glacier only to realize that my buddy's ice axe had fallen of his pack during the approach. Went back down found the axe and made our way back up. We had lost approx. 600m elevation. This peak has about 1800m vertical from the parking lot which means we got our exercise that day with approx. 2400 of up and down. Yep, my knees were sore at the end of that one!
UncleBob - Aug 25, 2005 12:15 am
Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: August 4, 2004Did both peaks on different days. Very easy glacier approach, ideal for beginners.
Vice president had a steep scree covered slope immediately past the col that offered some non-trivial scrambling/log-rolling.
A much easier route was clearly visible on the decent a little more to the right of the col.
klwagar - Aug 9, 2005 9:56 am
Route Climbed: North Glacier Date Climbed: August 2, 2005Perfect conditions. There was one other team on the glacier. We climbed from the left side to the right as the route description. Shrund is filled in but starting to open up. Summit ridge mostly clear of snow except the peak. Cornices looking fragile.
Dow Williams - May 9, 2005 3:46 pm
Route Climbed: President & Vice President Date Climbed: July, 2004On July 19th, Michael Thompson, myself, two female companions and one dog took off from Takakkaw Falls trail head and hiked in the necessary 10k+ to the little Yoho campground passing by numerous falls. On July 21st, we started out at 5:AM and summitted the President in under 3 hours. Michael took a break at the col while I summitted Vice President and we were back at camp for espresso before 10:30.
We took the left hand side picking an ascent route through several crevasses and then finished to the col over the 'schrund on the right side. This route was fast and esthetically pleasing, as well as kept us out of harms way regarding any rock or ice fall. I noted one soft bridge on our descent of the same route. The 'schrund is huge, relative to this glacier. If you have to climb in and out if it, definitely allow for more time. Once we got to the col, we un roped and proceeded up to the President on snow, rock and some ice. We signed the summit register and then I scattered up Vice President and signed it's register as well. We had wintry conditions at the col and the peaks, with no views. Our descent was typically quick. I would do this mountain solo, but of course, l was grateful for a partner on glacier travel.