Room to Shroom, 5.9-5.10b

Overview/Approach

During a cold mid-week day in December, we had South Wonderland all to ourselves. We truly never heard nor laid eyes on another human all day. One of the main objectives on a cold day of course was to chase the sun. This classic route fest led us in a circle from Foolproof Tower (High Strung) to Lenticular Dome (Mental Physics) to Room to Shroom. Room to Shroom’s classic route, its namesake (a 5.9 leaning crack), faces due west. Therefore a PM visit during the winter months makes sense for this classic. One of the advantages of this small crag is the sense of remoteness. It is sort of tucked away. We boulder hopped in from the northwest scrambling through interesting terrain and unique rock formations.

The route Room to Shroom makes Miramontes “12 terrific trad moderates” list and deserves it. Another decent crack route on the same west facing wall is Chemical Warfare (5.10b) which shares the same slab finish with Room to Shroom. Mud Dog (5.10a) climbs the rap line on the south facing wall. It is a decent corner/crack pitch.

Afterwards a local told me he was surprised we found Room to Shroom straight away indicating that others might have trouble doing so. I created a winter day cirque at Wonderland South taking advantage of the sun. Therefore I approached Room to Shroom from the northwest, just past the south faces of the North and South Astrodomes. Many folks, if just going for this crag specifically, would venture in from the parking area straight away across the dry lakebed, from the east. In any regard, Room to Shroom likes directly to the southeast of the south Astrodome. Its west face crack is unmistakable from the photos provided, but if coming from the east, the rap tree above the south face (photo) would be the better landmark.

Route Description(s)

Routes Listed Left to Right; West to East

West Wall

Chemical Warfare- Single Pitch- 5.10a/*

A traversing crack that comes in from the left and joins Room to Shroom at the slab.

Room to Shroom- Single Pitch- 5.9/***

We came in from the west (Lenticular Dome), so scrambled through some amazing boulders to the base of this pitch. Excellent hands and fingers and then a run out slab leads over to the south wall to a tree. I placed four pieces, C4 #1, 2-#2's and a #3 I believe. High Strung, Mental Physics and then Room to Shroom...these routes are in perfect order during a cold winter day to take advantage of the sun. Dow

South Wall

Mud Dog- Single Pitch- 5.10a/

A corner/crack that runs straight up to the rap tree on the south face.

External Links

Joshua Tree National Park Including Map.

Campsites

Images

View Room to Shroom, 5.9-5.10b Image Gallery - 7 Images