"After the first glass, you see things as you wish they were. After the second, you see things as they are not. Finally, you see things as they really are, which is the most horrible thing in the world."
--Oscar Wilde on Absinthe
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sm0421 - Apr 10, 2013 4:01 pm - Hasn't voted
It feels differentBob, thanks so much for the report and the map, we went in aug 2012 using your report and to me the final sections feels different... steep and exposed with loose rocks and I was scared. I didn't calm down and turned back at the beginning of the chimney climb. (almost no snow!) I will be back better prepared and with some ropes, thanks, Alex
reboyles - Apr 10, 2013 9:37 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: It feels differentIn all fairness, all 3 of us have many, many years of hard, technical rock climbing and soloing experience so our perspective is a bit warped. However, my feelings are that if any single person in a group is not comfortable then it's time to rope up, set solid anchors, belay and do it right or turn back. My motto is "if it ain't fun then don't do it". I think I learned more about climbing from my failures than I did from my successes.
Best regards - Bob
sm0421 - Apr 11, 2013 10:17 am - Hasn't voted
Borah and KingsI'm visiting Borah/Kings in August and I've been referring to your Borah album to decide if we should bring protection for the 'class3' section, based on your experience on Borah/Granite, what is your recommendation?
Thanks,
Alex
reboyles - Apr 11, 2013 11:59 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Borah and KingsMost people do not use a rope or protection for Borah's standard route (Chicken-Out-ridge) after mid to late summer. The rating for both routes is the same (Class III) and the exposure is similar. However, the SW Couloir is very remote and if you get into trouble back there it is going to be serious, no matter what. In August (on a weekend) you might be climbing Borah with 50 people or more and you might have to wait in line for people to cross CO ridge. I know that doesn't decrease the difficulty but it sure makes for a different state of mind if you can sit and watch other people cross the ridge first. On Granite, we went off route a little bit on the way up and the climbing quickly turned to 4th and 5th class. On Borah, the route is much more obvious. As for rock fall, Borah is a pile of fractured limestone and Dolomite similar to the Canadian Rockies where the words "scree and choss" must have originated. As for gear, I always bring a pair of collapsible poles and dry socks for the trip down. I pretend I'm skiing a double-black diamond downhill run on the descent because it is very similar. I'm planning on going again in August so write me a private message before you go and maybe we can hook up. Bob