Dow Williams - Jul 24, 2015 11:49 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2015
Truck N Drive
With Steph A. We climbed on five routes this day, Truck N Drive, Little Sheba, On the Lamb to Sleeper to Jailbreak. I did the NW Direct 5.10c route the day before and led the crux pitches on it (we did it in two total) and did not think it was as good a route as Truck N Drive thus I think this route gets overlooked. Prob because Chris has it as an R in his ST guide, but I don't really agree with that. Maybe a + would be more accurate as the slab moves from the first bolt on the 2nd pitch to the next bolt were no doubt more 5.10 than 5.9. But with no R or X I did not think. The only real run out would be the 3rd pitch but it is much easier slab. The pull over the roof was as much fun as the pic shows. I led the whole route in 2 pitches, combining the last two which makes sense. The first pitch was somewhat wet from rain the day before, so I climbed a bit harder ground up and right and traversed back to the base of the corner which offered good climbing as well. Good crack and good slab with a direct rap line at the end. Damn near should be a 5 star route.
Dow Williams - Jul 24, 2015 11:49 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2015
Truck N DriveWith Steph A. We climbed on five routes this day, Truck N Drive, Little Sheba, On the Lamb to Sleeper to Jailbreak. I did the NW Direct 5.10c route the day before and led the crux pitches on it (we did it in two total) and did not think it was as good a route as Truck N Drive thus I think this route gets overlooked. Prob because Chris has it as an R in his ST guide, but I don't really agree with that. Maybe a + would be more accurate as the slab moves from the first bolt on the 2nd pitch to the next bolt were no doubt more 5.10 than 5.9. But with no R or X I did not think. The only real run out would be the 3rd pitch but it is much easier slab. The pull over the roof was as much fun as the pic shows. I led the whole route in 2 pitches, combining the last two which makes sense. The first pitch was somewhat wet from rain the day before, so I climbed a bit harder ground up and right and traversed back to the base of the corner which offered good climbing as well. Good crack and good slab with a direct rap line at the end. Damn near should be a 5 star route.