Vagmarken Buttresses Climber's Log

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Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Oct 12, 2018 2:19 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2018

Wind Tower- 115’-5.7**  Sucess!

Not worth the two star recommendation that Miramontes gives it. There is no real Jtree 5.7 move on it and it is not sustained. But the rock and position are worthy. Hike up the gully between Intimidator Rocks and Left Buttress and traverse in from the left to the base of the route which is an obvious trad line following intermittent cracks. It protects well with fun movement on big jugs to the summit of the formation. Medium gear belay, bring up the second and walk off the back skiers right. To return to the base, ascend a gully on your left to the top of the col between Intimidator and Left Buttress. Southwest facing. Dow

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Oct 12, 2018 2:18 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2018

Bold is a Four Letter Word- 55’-5.10a*  Sucess!

This bolted route is much more challenging than Power Block. It is well bolted at the two cruxes through four clips with easy run out in the middle. Off the deck offers some tricky slab moves (but protected) on chossy rock. Trend up and left on easy ground to the third bolt. The upper crux is on much better rock with more interesting moves at the grade. This section is more edging than slab making short dynos for good hands on great rock. Dow

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Oct 12, 2018 2:16 pm Date Climbed: Mar 1, 2018

Power Back- 40’-5.10a*  Sucess!

Miramontes has this short route marked as a mixed route, but the lay back “crescent” shaped crack is bolted with two bolts and no other real gear is needed. Worth pairing with the 5.10a bolted climb to the right, sharing the same fixed rap anchor. As stated, it is a short lay back problem (fingers) with an easy start and finish. Southwest facing. Dow

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