White Book, 5.9, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

MP.com has this route at three pitches and the local guide at four.  We did it in two without simul-climbing.  The whole route follows the left edge of where the white polished granite meets a darker right facing corner system.  I led the long 2^nd pitch and had to dodge quite a bit of water.  The last rain was at least 24hrs prior, therefore this corner does drain for a bit after a decent rain.  There are no bolts on the route.  It is impressive by Keyhole standards that such a long (400’+) trad route can be found on a broad granite slab. 

Drive approximately 14 miles south of US 95 from the Boulder City bypass.  There is a cattle guard on the east side of the highway and an actual turning sign if heading north on US 95.  Head east on a dirt road.  Take the 2^nd right at the powerlines.  Follow this well maintained powerline road to Keyhole’s main parking area. It requires a left turn near the mouth of the canyon. Continue pass the mouth of the canyon driving down a dirt road to the south until you can see the obvious White Dream slab high up on the hill to the southeast.  It is a white polished slab.  Park and cross the desert on no existing trail to the base of the slab.  You have to cross one barbed wire fence as of 2024.  Start below the center of the slab angling up and left to the tall right facing corner hemming in the northern boundary of the slab.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 180’-5.7/ The first pitch takes off to the left in the textured brown wall paralleling the bolted route in the white rock to the right.  Follow the ground just right of the tall right facing corner system and eventually start climbing the corner at a perfect low angled 5.7 reddish corner which leads to a comfortable belay ledge.

2nd/3rd Pitches- 230’-5.9/ This is a great trad pitch to be found on such a slab feature.  Climb up and engage the off width to the left with a chicken wing and heel toe on your left side.  You can sling a decent chockstone (2024) at just the right spot.  Continue up the corner to an arcing roof.  The roof was impassable (wet) when I led it and therefore, I broke out right onto a cool seam in the white polished granite that led up to the stem box above.  It protected well with micro cams and rps.  The rest of the route is below grade except for maybe one move through a #3/#4 spot near the top.  Belay just below the top of the wall with medium gear. 

Descent

Walk south on top and scramble down to a slopping ledge angling back north to a fixed rap.  Approximately four or five raps total back to your packs with a single 70m.  You might get by with a 60m, I did not pay that much attention.  The raps are in good order as of 2024.

Essential Gear

Including the gear belays at both ends, I placed an entire single to #4, doubles to #.5 with additional smaller offsets and wires on the combined 2nd/3rd pitches.  Single 70m rope.  Route receives full afternoon sun.