There was still lots of snow so we climbed the steep part direct in a good firn snow instead of roping up for the crevasses.
...Nice weather, nice climb :-)
runout - Jul 31, 2019 12:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2019
NW, direct variant
From the lake (~3530m) ~5:15 to the summit.
Sometimes its easy to loose the path.
Steep (50°?) direct variant on the left side of the glacier. A bit scary on hard ice with only one ice axe and (improper) sport shoes (with crampons).
Down on the classic variant.
Summited from the high camp at 4200 m. No trail. The icefall has only one snow bridge which is not visible from the glacier below. Great climb in a fantastic mountain range!
luciezr - Sep 24, 2019 12:50 pm Date Climbed: Jul 10, 2019
Zamok from Mutnyi lakeWe dit the route in one day from Mutnyi lake.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oin614hPkp4&t=122s
There was still lots of snow so we climbed the steep part direct in a good firn snow instead of roping up for the crevasses.
...Nice weather, nice climb :-)
runout - Jul 31, 2019 12:12 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2019
NW, direct variantFrom the lake (~3530m) ~5:15 to the summit.
Sometimes its easy to loose the path.
Steep (50°?) direct variant on the left side of the glacier. A bit scary on hard ice with only one ice axe and (improper) sport shoes (with crampons).
Down on the classic variant.
JanVanGenk - Jul 31, 2011 3:52 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2011
NW route (normal)Summited from the high camp at 4200 m. No trail. The icefall has only one snow bridge which is not visible from the glacier below. Great climb in a fantastic mountain range!