Overview
Tres Picos is an isolate mountain of
Serra dos Órgãos and, have a great wall to climb, around 800 meters verticals, a real paradise for climbers. The mountain is located in Nova Friburgo town, Salinas district. The rock formations are single, haven't another like this peak. The biggest granite rock is the culminant point of
Serra dos Orgãos, including the Serra dos Órgãos National Park. This is an alkaline rock formations on the slopes of Serra dos Órgãos, seems like rock columns. Tres Picos is a majestic peak of this group
The
highest Serra dos Órgãos peaks:
Tres Picos - 2316 mts
Pedra do Sino - 2275 mts
Morro da Luva - 2263 mts
Castelitos - 2240 mts
Tres Picos is formed by three great peaks:
Pico Maior - 2316 mts.
Pico Médio - 2285 mts.
Pico Menor - 2262 mts.
Capacete is the big granite block beside Tres Picos, is very beautiful and there, you've a good view of "the giant".
Tres Picos - 2316m
Getting There
Take a car or regular buses to
Nova Friburgo town. From Rio de Janeiro, around
160 km separates the city from
Tres Picos State Park. Salinas Valley is the last district before you reach the mountains. So, if you want to buy any complement. do it there. From there , take the way to Tres Picos
without asphalt, follwing the way to
IBELGA School, at the right sido of the road croosing Salinas Valley.
The
way sequence to arrive Tres Picos ( From Rio de Janeiro )
Rio de Janeiro - Cross Rio-Niterói bridge ( 14 km ) - Niterói - Take BR-101 North - Itaboraí - Take RJ-116 ( Rota 116 ) - Cachoeiros de Macacu - Nova Friburgo - Take RJ-122 to Teresópolis - km30 ( turn to Salinas valley at left ) - Conquista District - Santa Cruz District - São Lourenço District - Turn to right to IBELGA School - The end of the road = Tres Picos camping.
To get the trailhead for the routes, you should to turn back till the last house before
Deuses Valley, when as possible to see a big and a round stone, continues by this way. Some trails to the right side, take you to the great east wall. The end of this trail, is on the base of
Pico Menor. Sometimes, after the rains, the trail could be closed by the vegetation.
São Lourenço Road
São Lourenço Road is one of many ways to get the Deuses Valley and the base of Tres Picos. This is a beautiful road with big houses, wild animals, Atlantic Forest and great visuals of Serra dos Orgãos. FRI-001 is the principal access with asphalt, and Tres Picos base is faraway around 10 km. São Lourenço road is the easiest way to rise the State Park. Another road to Vale dos Deuses is from
Jaborandi, at Roca-Pedra's base.
Sao Lourenço Road
Red Tape
Do not climb the Tres picos group if you don't know about the routes, it's very dangerous, because the mountain has some different routes with difficult levels. This is some Tres Picos climb routes:
Arco da Velha 6° VI+ ( Pico Maior )
Pontão do Sol 5° VI + ( Pico Maior )
Variante Psylocybis 3° ( Pico Maior )
Leste ( East ) 4° V A1E3 ( Maior )
Chaminé Pellegrini 6° VI ( Pico Menor )
Devaneios do Repouso 6° VII ( Capacete )
Sol da Meia Noite 4° V + E3 ( Capacete )
Decadence Avec Elegance Route
When To Climb
April to October Season: Cold, dry and the days are much more clearly ;
November to March Season: Hot, rainy and the high humidity causes cloud cap.
Fog in the valley: Attention!
Camping
Many campings in the perimeter of Tres Picos . The better camping area is Vale dos Deuses, with wild horses free, hawks, birds, water, big trees and near of all mountain access.
Jose Augusto Camping
Paulo's Camping
Mountain Conditions
It's very dangerous , because the weather changes dramatically.
Weather and forecasts
Tres Picos Overviews
Route Links
Devaneios do Repouso - Capacete (6º VII)
Disk-Dique - Pico Maior (7ºXIa(A0)E3)
Via Leste - Pico Maior (4°V A1E3)
Chaminé Pellegrini - Pico Menor (6° VI A0)
Variante Psylocybis - Pico Maior (3°)
Sol da Meia Noite - Capacete (4° V+ E3)