All You Can Eat, 5.10d, 5 Pitches

Overview/Approach

 

All You Can Eat is just another of many ignored routes at Red Rock that would be as classic as their brethren if they saw the same amount of traffic which would result in them getting cleaned up. Unimpeachable Groping is made up of the same varnish on yellow sandstone vacant any weak holds via a steady traffic of sport climbers wanting to get on a multi-pitch.  All You Can Eat has several good 5.10+ bolted pitches but they both are still littered with suspect holds.  I did my part knocking down several of the weaker ones on lead. The first two trad (mixed) pitches are really the attraction to this route. I would imagine only a hand full of us have ever completed the route in its entirety (Mountain Project only has the first two pitches described as of 2015). However the entire route is worthy of more attention. I felt the FAer’s did a good job discovering and developing a decent line

 

The first two pitches of All You Can Eat are outstanding. They both are protected with gear and bolts and offer everything from tips to hands to wide. The obtuse corner start is very unique and offers one of the more interesting 5.10 moves at Red Rock, making the cool stem from the left corner to the right corner.  The 3rd and 4th pitches (both fully bolted) are the crux of the climb if not for any other reason than they span 200’ of suspect holds on vertical ground (5.10+). Although the 4th pitch has the crux move of the route as well as the most run out between bolts, the 3rd pitch is the most unnerving (I led them both). The 5th pitch is the easiest pitch and the only one that you might place large gear in as Handren references in his guide (double 6"-8"). I placed one C4#4 deep in and would have been comfortable running the final off-width chimney out as it is by far the easiest climbing of the day once you traverse into it.  All You Can Eat is a much more sustained route at the grade than Power Failure and a more adventurous outing than Unimpeachable Groping with only a handful of ascents to date.

 

Park at the Oak Creek trail head. Hike northwest as you would for Crimson Chrysalis towards Juniper Canyon. Head up the hill on either of the two well-worn trails. Turn left right before reaching the north face of Cloud Tower and head up the gully on the east side of Ginger Buttress crossing under Unimpeachable Groping. All You Can Eat starts at the same location as Power Failure below a short wall on the right side of the gully with a single spinner (2015) bolt on it. You can solo on the right side of this bolt on easy ground to a bushy ledge. Walk right until below the mirrored corners which are to the left of the significant left facing corner. Several bolts start the pitch.

Route Description

All You Can Eat, 500+/-, 5.10d



1st Pitch- 90’- 5.10c/ The first two pitches of All You Can Eat are exceptional for the grade. The first pitch gets those accolades for simply being unique: “Obtuse Corner Crack System” (two off setting corners). A direct alternative move on this pitch supposedly goes at 5.11d through the 1st bolt. The original line starts up the left finger corner and stems over just below the 2nd bolt. Thus the harder variation is only a move or two different, off the deck. The crux of this pitch (5.10c) is a left hand underhanded under cling (don’t know if I had done one of these before) , toes pointing right and making a wild stem via small fingers in the right crack. Reach up to a hand jam, mantle, then back to more of a finger crack on less vertical ground to a comfortable ledge with a fixed rap.



2nd Pitch- 100’- 5.10a/ I led all the pitches on this route and thought this pitch was as technical and physically demanding as any of the others despite being rated the 2nd easiest pitch. Head up the significant left facing corner on good rock past several bolts. Some lay back moves are essential. The corner opens up to wide= arms bars, fists. You pass a mid-rap station (not needed to rap with a single 60 or 70). I had a C4#4 but only placed a #3 in this section. Climb the wide corner until it closes back down and good gear becomes more of a premium as you are forced onto white-yellow suspect sandstone on the arete. The climbing is vertical on positive but suspect features. Traverse to the left wall and finish on nice varnish traversing to a fixed hanging belay below a small roof.  All remaining belay stations including this one are hanging belays.



3rd Pitch- 100’- 5.10c/ These next two bolted face pitches are longer than Handren’s guide has them perhaps because they both zig-zag quite a bit. Although neither of these next two pitches are any more technical or physical than the first two, the holds are fragile enough that you will move slower. Move up and left and follow the bolt line as it meanders. Handren says 5 bolts but there are 6 to a hanging belay at a fixed rap. No real definitive crux just scary rock in places. 



4th Pitch- 110’- 5.10d/ You can easily rap this pitch with a 60m, but again, it zig zags considerably. The crux of this pitch (and the route) is much more defined then the previous pitch. Head up and left clipping two bolts. Then make a relatively blank move (5.10d) on soft rock to gain positive holds (right at a bolt). Head up the left side (run out) of the slick varnish patch on positive edges. I still broke a black on black foot hold near this plated varnish. The underlying base on this wall is soft rock. This is by far the most run out section of the climb, but if you stay on the left side of the varnished patch, it goes mostly at 5.9. Traverse up and right on vertical ground with a few interesting moves (nothing harder than 5.10-) to yet another hanging belay at a fixed rap. Handren says 6 bolts but there are 7.



5th Pitch- 75’- 5.9/ Climb up the easier ground above and place a few pieces in the left facing corner. Down climb a move or two and then traverse right on varnish to the base of the off-width corner above. This is by far the easiest pitch of the day. I placed one ticked out #4 in the wide crack. Face right when the climbing gets strenuous. Heal toe with a chicken wing or two. Not a technical off width by any means. Handren claims double 6”-8”. But a single C4#4 suffices for the competent 5.10 climber. This is the only time I placed the #4 and I would go with out and just solo this pitch next time around. There is another fixed rap at the top of this pitch.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Rap the route with a single 60m or 70m. A 60m will be close on the 2nd pitch but there is an intermediate rap if you need it. On the last rap, rap straight down to the gully so you can pull your rope without getting it stuck in the trees.  I cleaned up some tat someone left on a tree because they probably did not get a clean pull.

Essential Gear

Despite how warm you feel at the trail head, once you lose the sun during the winter months (could be as early as 10am=east facing), it will get cold, particularly the hanging belays, dress accordingly. Single 60m or 70m rope. Single set of cams to #4. A few nuts or off set cams. I did not place any micro stuff nor needed the large cams Handren suggests. Half dozen draws, half dozen slings.

Images

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