A cracking route and engaging account. I remembered you saying how warm it was but hadn't realised how awful conditions were. I'm surprised you weren't seeing evidence of avalanches. I did some routes like this one back in the 1980's - and conditions very much dictated speed. Not surprised you were slower than you planned to be - and with all the slipping and sliding you had to pitch it, as you did. If you like routes like this then you should (as I have said before) have a look at Breithorn Triftgrat (more of a spur than a grat - and it sure felt like a face in 1986) - and have you ever thought of the Brenva on Mont Blanc? Good luck with this coming season - hope it is a better one. Best wishes, Mark
Apart from the occasional spontaneous rock tumbling down from high up, and from what we dislodged ourselves, the snow on the face somehow stuck to it. Despite the less than ideal weather in the days before, the total amount of precipitation wasn't all that much, so, fortunately, there wasn't a thick pack of fresh snow waiting for a trigger to start a big avalanche.
Now, the snow directly on the ice must have been older, and well bonded so that wouldn't be dislodged too easily. But some of the snow on top must have been from the less than ideal weather in the days before. Lower down on the face, the snow was soft, but still sticky enough that I wasn't worried. But high up, where we could just wipe away the snow, that still triggered nothing. Only the stuff we wiped away fell down. Fortunately.
I understand what you mean when talking about your friend saying he was emotionless.
I have a pal that I've climbed with twice, both times he was cursing excessively and seemed really negative about any slight obstacle or change of plan. Afterwards when I ask him "So, did you hate it or..?", he says "Oh no, it was fine."
As if he just ate a mediocre bowl of pasta and didn't in fact spend 2 days at the edge of his physical strength.
markhallam - Jun 4, 2015 1:11 pm - Voted 10/10
Good show SirA cracking route and engaging account. I remembered you saying how warm it was but hadn't realised how awful conditions were. I'm surprised you weren't seeing evidence of avalanches. I did some routes like this one back in the 1980's - and conditions very much dictated speed. Not surprised you were slower than you planned to be - and with all the slipping and sliding you had to pitch it, as you did. If you like routes like this then you should (as I have said before) have a look at Breithorn Triftgrat (more of a spur than a grat - and it sure felt like a face in 1986) - and have you ever thought of the Brenva on Mont Blanc? Good luck with this coming season - hope it is a better one. Best wishes, Mark
rgg - Jun 5, 2015 1:09 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Good show SirApart from the occasional spontaneous rock tumbling down from high up, and from what we dislodged ourselves, the snow on the face somehow stuck to it. Despite the less than ideal weather in the days before, the total amount of precipitation wasn't all that much, so, fortunately, there wasn't a thick pack of fresh snow waiting for a trigger to start a big avalanche.
Now, the snow directly on the ice must have been older, and well bonded so that wouldn't be dislodged too easily. But some of the snow on top must have been from the less than ideal weather in the days before. Lower down on the face, the snow was soft, but still sticky enough that I wasn't worried. But high up, where we could just wipe away the snow, that still triggered nothing. Only the stuff we wiped away fell down. Fortunately.
Abney - Jun 7, 2015 4:05 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: FeelingsI understand what you mean when talking about your friend saying he was emotionless.
I have a pal that I've climbed with twice, both times he was cursing excessively and seemed really negative about any slight obstacle or change of plan. Afterwards when I ask him "So, did you hate it or..?", he says "Oh no, it was fine."
As if he just ate a mediocre bowl of pasta and didn't in fact spend 2 days at the edge of his physical strength.