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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.62320°N / 34.33820°E |
Route Type:
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Technical Rock Climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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2A (Russian Grade), III, A1 |
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Approach
From the bus stop on highway go up the road in mountain direction (15-20 minutes). There is only one road which goes to the mountain. Then near the mountain turn left on the path across the forest. It is easy to find because almost everybody use this approach. Then about 5-10 minutes by no technical rocks to the buttress.
Route starts from the alone tree which is left to the toe.
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Route Description
R0 – R1: From the ledge with alone pine tree go up by the rocks (III, 25-30 m) to the on the crest to the small ledge. During the way you can see old bolts and pitons, red spots and drill holes. Probably this part of route was bolted some time. From the ledge up by the vertical difficult cracked wall (V+, 5 m), further by the vertical wall (III+, 10 m) to the good ledge. R1 is on the two bolts or on the flange of ridge. Length of section is 45-50 m.
R1 – R2: From the R1 straight up to the roof (III+, 10 m), which pass by right side. Above the roof is corner (IV, 10 m). Go to the left wall at the top part of corner. Further (8m) is belay station on the ledge with two bolts. Length of section is 30 m.
R2 –R3: Go up by the ridge, keeping left side of middle difficulty rocks (II-III), to the ledge with tree. There is a belay station. Length of section is 40 m.
R3 – R4: Go up by the ridge, keeping left side of middle difficulty rocks (II-III), to the ledge with two bolts. There is a belay station. Also you can make a belay anchors using passive protection.
Length of section is 40 m.
R4 – R5: By easy rocks (I-II) approach to platform before the summit. Then go left (keeping left side) to the summit crest outlet (I). Then climb difficult part of the ridge (III, 10 m). Station is on a ledge. Length of section is 45 m.
R5 – R6: By the easy rocks (I) to the summit. Length of section is 40 m.
Essential Gear
- Helmet;
- Set of nuts;
- Set of hexes;
- 10 Quickdraws;
- 5 long Runners
Miscellaneous Info
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