Approach
Starting from Rifugio Vittorio Emanuele, crossing the glacier directly to the north wall.
Route Description
From the left side of the wall go to the right following the less difficult route avoiding crevassess and ice fall.
This part is mainly 45°, then you reach some rocks emerging from ice, there is a small gully, cross it and go straight up to the summit.
Probabily a pitch 55°/60°
These indication are related to my climb on July 1968 and the conditions may change during the years.
I post a sequence of pics illustrating the route.
Essential Gear
Crampons and ice axe.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
gasgenova - Feb 21, 2004 4:20 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentTo the summit go to west ridge, and follow it. When you see on the left a couloir take it and go down. You arrived to a snow plane, now you go to left into broken rock slope since to arrive to Ciarforon pass 3333 m. Go down to Monciair glacier and take the Ciarforon west wall on the right turn the base of north-west ridge, more cairns and than easy arrive to rif. V. Emanuele.